Of The Region's Best Trips! New England TRIPS

Transcription

Whether you’re a local looking for a long weekend escape, a visitorlooking to explore or you simply need some ideas when familyand friends come to visit, Lonely Planet’s Trips series offers the bestitineraries – and makes it easy to plan the perfect trip time and again. Theme icons make finding the perfect trip simple – no matterwhat your interest Easy-to-use maps for every trip, plus driving times and directions Local experts share their favorite trip ideas, including a clamdigger’s seafood tour, a sculptor’s art tour and a winery trip fromtelevision personality Chef Harry Iconic Trips chapter covers must-do trips across the region, fromFall Foliage to Coastal New England Tune in on the road with our regional music playlistsExplore the region with trips ranging from two to five days, andday trips from BostonNew England53 of the Region’s Best Trips!New EnglandTRIPS53 THEMED ITINERARIES 1012 LOCAL PLACES TO SEEFamily-friendly and pet-friendly listings throughoutGreen index lists the region’s most environmentally friendly optionsSince 1984 Lonely Planet USA has published over 100guides to America, working with over 200 American travelwriters. For this Trips series our authors drove more than100,000 miles, visited 230 diners, stopped at 810 roadside attractions and rediscovered the country they love.Visit Lonely Planet online at www.lonelyplanet.com.cover-nen1.indd 11ST EDITIONPublished March 2009USA 19.99UK 14.99TRIPSTRAVEL AMERICA WITH LONELY PLANETIncludes Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut,Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine18/11/2008 9:37:30 AM

TRIP50Maine LobsterTourWHY GO Maine’s amazingly fresh lobsteris so ubiquitous that if you ask 10 Mainers where to find the best lobster, you’llprobably get 20 different answers. Tastetest your way across the state enjoyingthe various lobster incarnations: lobsterroll, lobster salad and the traditionalsteamed lobster.TIME2 – 3 daysWhen man ate his first lobster, it was surely an act of desperation. Thecrops must have failed and the fish stopped biting, so some poor soulwas forced to trudge through thick strands of seaweed in search ofanything remotely edible. He stuck his hand deep into a dark creviceand pulled out a wretched, googly-eyed creature with pincers wildlywaving and furiously snapping shut. Eureka! This ghastly creature isdelicious! Who’d have guessed this hideous arachnoid would wind uptopping the price lists at fancy restaurants?As you cross the state line into Maine, signs littered with superlativescrowd the streets attempting to lure those with lobster on the brain. Getsome tail at . Mike’s Clam Shack in Wells. Mike’s is definitely a tourist trap (the menus have detailed instructions about tipping in America),but its midsized lobster rolls, with a helping of unusually tasty fries,are delish. Those looking for a side order of sand and sun should try3 Forbes Self Service Restaurant along Wells Beach. The large, brightblue-and-yellow hut offers a scrumptious lobster–mayo combo to go, socustomers can chow down under the shade of their beach umbrella.DISTANCE200 milesBEST TIME TO GOYear-roundSTARTWellsENDBar HarborALSO GOOD FORBefore venturing deep into the heart of Maine’s main lobster territory,make a pit stop in Portland, the state’s largest city. The DowneastDuck Tours, aboard an amphibious bus–boat, is a unique way to learnabout the region’s vivid maritime history. The tour ambles around townthen plunges into Casco Bay for a whole different perspective.31708-maine-nen1.indd 31731/10/2008 12:19:14 PM

TRIP50MAINE MAINE LOBSTER TOUR4Bangor27Bald Mtn(1234ft)29520223021134Lewiston3Camden outhSebagoLakePortlandSearsport158BelfastBlue HillCastineAUGUSTA State Park worthr oscog g i n R i ver26182BucksportA othbayHarbor19Bar HarborAcadiaNational 10 Mt DesertIsland7 ParkBernardPenobscotDeer IsleBay56ThomastonPort ClydeStoningtonIsle au HautATLANTICOCEAN3Cape Elizabeth1202KennebunkWells1Old Orchard BeachCape Porpoise20040 km20 miOgunquitHop back on Hwy 1 and continue your northward journey in search of anafternoon snack at / Red’s, in little Wiscasset. The throngs of lip-lickingtourists make this wobbly lobster stand very hard to miss. The lobster-rollrecipe is simple: take a toasted hot-dog bun and cram it with one lobster’sworth of meat. There’s a small plastic bowl of melted butter for dipping, andvoilà – no gobs of mayo, just juicy red meat and a plastic fork shoved in themiddle like a pioneer’s flag.A stop in Rockland, further north on Hwy 1, is a must for any true lobsterjunkie. This little port teems with crustacean-related events throughout theyear including lobster-boat racing and the annual Maine Lobster Festival(www.mainelobsterfestival.com). AYOU’VE GOT MAILtrip with 1 Captain Jack LobsterThe times they are a-changin’. Fresh Maine lob- Boat Adventure is a great way to getster used to be a luxury available only to those a behind-the-scenes look at lobsterwho made the pilgrimage. These days you can hunting in Maine. Spend an hourhave the critters delivered to your doorstep cruising the open seas on an auwith a click of your mouse and a quick call to thentic 30ft lobster boat while CapFedEx. If you’re too lazy to get off your keister tain Hale hauls his traps. Lunch andand taste-test your way up the coast, then get dinner cruises are also available forin touch with Browne Trading (www.browne those who want some instant gratifi-trading.com) or Maine Lobster Direct (www cation. Sample some exquisitely pre.mainelobsterdirect.com).pared seafood at Rockland’s favorite31808-maine-nen1.indd 31831/10/2008 12:19:14 PM

MAINE LOBSTER TOUR MAINETRIP50restaurant, 4 Primo, if you don’t want your dishes rocking back and forth.Feast on modern twists of Italian faves like fresh vine-ripe antipastos and aheavenly espresso dessert float topped with vanilla and chocolate gelato.To digest the lifetime’s worth of lobster consumed earlier on in the day, settlefor the night at the handsome 2 Pilgrim’s Inn, on the rugged, rock-strewnshores of Deer Isle. Built in 1793, the post-and-beam inn offers refined seasidecharm in its 12 rooms and cottages.Start the new day by continuing north to Bar Harbor, on Mount DesertIsland (pronounced “dessert,” for all you New England neophytes), whereyou can take a morning ride with the affable Captain John on ( LuluLobster Boat. Enjoy the postcard-worthy scenery around Acadia NationalPark while listening to colorful local legends and the faint claw clicking of recently caught creatures. After a tourwith Lulu, swing by the , Thirsty YOU’VE GOT MALEWhale, a favorite hangout for local Show your skills at the dinner table and wowlobstermen. Try an amber brew while those surrounding you by identifying the geneavesdropping on the conversations der of your steamed seafood. The secret lies inof gruff sailors as they swap exagger- the swimmerets (the small, leafy limbs danglingate stories of whale sightings, rip tides on the underside of the tail). If the first pair ofand catching a lobster THIS BIG. For swimmerets are hard, then you’ve caught yourthe best lobster on Mount Desert Is- self a male – female lobsters’ swimmerets feelland, locals turn to " Thurston’s more feather-like.Lobster Pound out in Bernard, overlooking Bass Harbor. Park yourself on the rickety plastic patio furniture,strap on a bib and savor some of the juiciest crustaceans around while watching fishing boats unload their daily catch.Brandon Presser31908-maine-nen1.indd 31931/10/2008 12:19:14 PM

TRIP50MAINE MAINE LOBSTER TOURTRIP INFORMATIONGETTING THERE5998; www.mikesclamshack.com; 1150 PostRd, Wells; lobster roll 13-14; h11:30am9:30pm; cPrimoFrom Boston, take I-95 north, passing theNew Hampshire and Maine state lines before Set in a Victorian home and featuringexpertly prepared seafood, Primo remainsarriving in Wells Beach.one of the top restaurants in the Northeast.DO%207-596-0700; 2 S Main St (ME 73),Rockland; meals 21-28; hdinner Thu-MonCaptain Jack Lobster Boat Adventure mid-May–OctExperience life as a lobsterman aboard anauthentic downeaster lobster vessel. %207- Red’s542-6852; www.captainjacklobstertours.com; 130 Thomaston St, Rockland; adult/child 25/15; hmid-May–Oct; cDowneast Duck ToursThis 65-minute amphibious bus puttersthrough the Old Port, before plunging intothe bay for a waterside tour. %207-774-A small stand overflowing with hungrytourists yearning for a lobster roll. %207-882-6128; cnr Main & Water Sts, Wiscasset;lobster roll 16-19; h11am-11pm MonThu, 11am-2pm Fri & Sat, noon-6pm SunThirsty WhaleHead here to mingle with locals and lobster-men over a pint of ale. %207-288-9335;3825; www.downeastducktours.com; 177Commercial St, Portland; adult/child 22/17; 40 Cottage St, Bar Harbor; drinks from 3;hnoon-midnighthmid-May–mid-Oct; cLulu Lobster BoatThurston’s Lobster PoundOverlooking Bass Harbor in Bernard, thisA tour aboard a traditional lobster boat intermixed with local legends, great photo ops casual waterside spot with superb viewsserves amazingly fresh lobster. %207-244and traps full of lobster. %207-963-2341;www.lululobsterboat.com; Harborside Hotel 7600; Steamboat Wharf, Bernard; mealsand Marina, Bar Harbor; adult/child 27/15; 14-22; hnoon-8pm late May-Seph8am-8pm May-Oct; cEATSLEEPPilgrim’s InnSitting along the Northwest Harbor, thisA bright-blue-and-yellow bastion of seafood handsome post-and-beam inn was built inserving beach bums some of the best lobster 1793 and offers refined seaside charm in its12 rooms and cottages.%207-348-6615;around. %207-646-7620; Wells Beach;Forbes Self Service Restaurantlobster roll 15-18; hbreakfast, lunch &dinner late May-Augwww.pilgrimsinn.com; 20 Main St, Deer IsleVillage; r with breakfast 99-209Mike’s Clam ShackAn institution along the highway, Mike’s is a USEFUL WEBSITESbit touristy but serves up a great lobster roll www.meliving.com/lobster/index.shtmlwith a tasty side of French fries. %207-646- www.visitmaine.comLINK YOUR TRIP1 Coastal New England p357 Food Trip: New England p8151 60 Lighthouses in 60 Hours ne-nen1.indd 32031/10/2008 12:19:15 PM

and friends come to visit, Lonely Planet's Trips series off ers the best itineraries - and makes it easy to plan the perfect trip time and again. 53 of the Region's Best Trips! 1ST EDITION Published March 2009 USA 1999. UK 14.99 TRAVEL AMERICA WITH LONELY PLANET Since 1984 Lonely Planet USA has published over 100