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TECHNIQUE:textureOxidizingTo create the appearance of textureby patinating metal (usually fine orsterling silver) with liver of sulfur ineither liquid or chunk form, followthese instructions adapted from KateMcKinnon’s “Hot Wire” article inBeadwork magazine (June/July 2006).Clean your metal piece with soap andwarm water if it is dirty or oily.Find four glass, stainless steel, orceramic bowls. Fill the first with enoughliver-of-sulfur solution to cover the pieceof metal: Liver of sulfur in liquid form isready to use, but can be diluted; dissolvethe chunk form in water followingthe manufacturer’s instructions. Fill asecond bowl with very hot water (whichspeeds up the patination process) anda third with cold water (which slowsdown the process). Fill the fourth bowlwith cold water mixed with about atablespoon of baking soda (which actsas a neutralizing agent).How to:When you are pleased with the color,dip the metal into the cold water withbaking soda to stop the reaction, thenrinse and dry. Brush, sand, or polishthe surface for interesting results. Ifyou don’t like the patina, you can easilyremove it by sanding or brushing it. Ifdesired, seal your piece with any sprayfixative meant for metal; unsealedpieces will age, develop more patina, orbecome shiny with wear.HammeringPounding wire not only creates greattexture, but also strengthens metal.To hammer, place your wire on a steelbench block. Use the flat end of achasing hammer to flatten the wire, thenuse the ball end of the hammer to addtexture.Use stainless steel tweezers or plasticor wood tongs to dip the metal into theliver-of-sulfur solution. Rinse in the hotor cold water. Continue to dip and rinseoften to gradually build a patina.[ tips ]Lightly sand or brush the piece with abrass or wire brush, sandpaper, very finesteel wool, or other abrasive betweendips to give more depth to the patina—atextured surface picks up more patinathan a smooth surface.WORKING WITH LIVER OF SULFUR Take the following precautions when using liver ofsulfur: keep it away from acids, wear gloves to avoidcontact with the skin, and work in a well-ventilatedarea since the fumes are toxic. Store both liquid and chunk forms of liver of sulfurin tightly sealed light- and air-proof containers. 2010 Interweave. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.page 9

FILIGREE LINK BRACELETJANICE BERKEBILEHammer, spiral, and link—that'sall it takes to make Janice'sgorgeous spiral-link bracelet.Materials12 sterling silver 6mm jump rings2 sterling silver 8mm jump rings15" of sterling silver 22-gauge wire28" of copper 16-gauge wireToolsFlush cuttersRound-nose pliersChain-nose pliersLong round-nose pliersChasing hammerBench blockPounding padF i n i s h e d S i z e : 7 1 4"Filigree links1: Cut five 5" pieces of copper wire, one 3"Clasp5: Repeat Step 2 with the 3" copper wire. Usepiece of copper wire, and five 3" piecesof silver wire.2: Use the flat end of the hammer to flatten1 4" on both ends of each piece of copperwire, creating a paddle on each end.3: Use each piece of copper wire to make aloosely wrapped S-shaped double-spirallink. Hammer the outside edges of eachlink with the flat end of the hammer, thenwith the ball end.round-nose pliers to form a small spiral ateach end of the wire, rolling each spiraltoward the center, but in opposite directions from each other. Grasp the wire withthe widest (back) end of the long roundnose pliers about 1 4" from one spiral, withthe spiral facing up. Press the wire aroundthe nose of the pliers to form a hook shape.Repeat in the opposite direction at the otherend of the wire to form an S. Hammer therounded ends of the clasp with the flat endof the hammer, then with the ball end.Coiling4: Using 1 piece of silver wire and, leavinga 1 2" tail, form three coils around thecenter of 1 link. If necessary, use chainnose pliers to bunch the coils togethertightly. Trim each end to 1 2" and use theends to form tight spirals that roll towardthe center of the link. Repeat entire stepwith the remaining links. Gently curveeach link with your fingers to wrap gentlyaround the wrist.Bracelet assembly6: Use two 6mm jump rings to attach oneend of 1 link to one end of another link.Repeat three times. Use two 6mm jumprings to attach one of the end links to theclasp. Connect the two 8mm jump ringsand use two 6mm jump rings to attachone of them to the other end link.7: If desired, patinate the bracelet using liverof sulfur.Resources: Check your local bead shop or contact: Jump rings and wire: Quiltworks Northwest,(425) 453-6005, www.quiltworksnw.com. 2010 Interweave. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.page 10

RINGS OF SATURNMARLENE BLESSINGThe planetary look of theseborosilicate rondelles,coupled with the glasspendant, make this a trulygalactic necklace. All it takesis a little stringing, a coupleof jump rings, and sometwists of wire! 2010 Interweave. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.page 11

Materials8 assorted 14 8mm borosilicate (boro) rondelles1 purple 22mm lampworked glass disc1 red-and-orange 38mm lampworked glass disc12 Thai silver 9 6mm spacers6 Thai silver 6 55mm hammered noodles1 sterling silver 15mm toggle clasp2 sterling silver 10mm jump rings28" of dark red 2mm leather cord12" of sterling silver 22-gauge half-hard wire10" of sterling silver 20-gauge half-hard wireToolsRound-nose pliersChain-nose pliersWire cuttersF i n i s h e d S i z e : 2 4 " p l u s 1 7 8" p e n d a n tPendant1: Use 5" of 20-gauge wire to form a wrapped loop. Use theother end of the wire to string the 38mm and 22mm discs,then make a 90 bend 3 4" from the base of the wrappedloop. Use the end of the wire to form a spiral that rests ontop of the 22mm disc.2: Form a spiral on one end of 5" of 20-gauge wire, then stringthe two discs, front side first. Press the spiral flat on top ofthe 22mm disc. Use the other end of the wire at the backof the discs to wrap around the neck of the wrapped-loopwire, then bring the wire to the front of the discs, wrap itaround one of the spirals formed previously, and form asmall spiral at the end of the wire.Necklace strand3: Use the cord to string 1 boro, 1 spacer, 1 noodle, and 1 spacerthree times. String 1 boro.4: String the wrapped loop formed in Step 1.5: Repeat Step 3, reversing the stringing sequence.6: Center all the beads on the cord. Fold one of the cord endsin half, then use 6" of 22-gauge wire to make about 17 coilsaround the cord end to secure the cord loop; repeat withthe other cord end.7: Use 1 jump ring to attach one half of the clasp to one ofthe cord loops; repeat with the other half of the clasp andcord loop.Resources: Contact your local bead shop or contact: Borosilicaterondelles and glass discs: Bokamo Designs, (913) 648-4296, www.bokamodesigns.com. Thai silver noodles and spacers: SomersetSilver (wholesale only), (425) 641-3666, www.somerset-silver.com.Jump rings: Via Murano, (877) 842-6872, www.viamurano.com.Leather cord: Leather Cord USA, (877) 700-2673, www.leathercordusa.com. 2010 Interweave. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.page 12

Techniquesflush/wirecuttersTo explore stringing further, consult Getting Started Stringing Beads and Stringing Style (both from Interweave).Crimpingcrimp tubeare seamlessmetal tubes used to securethe end of a beading wire.To use, string a crimp tubeand the connection finding(i.e., the loop of the clasp).Pass back through the tube,leaving a short tail. Use theback notch of the crimpingpliers to press the length ofthe tube down between thewires, enclosing them in separate chambers of the crescentshape. Rotate the tube 90 and use the front notch ofthe pliers to fold the twochambers onto themselves,forming a clean cylinder. Trimthe excess wire.CRIMP BEADS are serratedmetal beads. Twisted crimptubes and crimp beads can besecured by squeezing themflat with chain- or flat-nosepliers.CRIMP COVERS hide crimptubes and give a professionalfinish. To attach, gently hold acrimp coverin the frontnotch of thecrimpingpliers. Insertthe crimpedplacing atube andcrimp covergentlysqueeze the pliers, encasingthe tube inside the cover.CRIMP TUBESCRIMP/CORD ENDSconsist of a loopattached to a tube.Dab the leather,plastic, ribbon, orother cord withjewelry glue, thenplace it in thecrimp/cordcrimp/cord end.endIf you’re using acrimp end, crimp it as youwould a crimp tube.WIREGUARDS provide asmooth metal channel toprotect the stringing materialfrom chaffingagainst a connector. Stringa crimp tube,then pass upthrough onehalf of thewireguardguard anddown the otherhalf. Pass the guard and wirethrough the loop of the connector, pass the wire backthrough the crimp tube, snugthe tube up to the guard, thencrimp.WireworkingMETAL WIRE comes in manyfinishes and gauges. Thelower the gauge number, thethicker the wire. The hardnessor softness of wire is called“temper.” Most wire comes indead-soft, half-hard, and hardtempers. Unless otherwisenoted, wire used in this issueis half-hard—the best temperfor making strong loops andother shapes.opening a jump ringconnect holesand loops. Open a jump ringby grasping each side of itsopening with a pair of pliers;don’t pull apart. Instead, twistin opposite directions so thatyou can open and closewithout distorting the shape.JUMP RINGSsimple loopTo form a SIMPLE LOOP, useflat-nose pliers to make a 90 bend at least 1/2" from the endof the wire. Use round-nosepliers to grasp the wire afterthe bend; roll the plierstoward the bend, but not pastit, to preserve the 90 bend.Use your thumb to continuethe wrap around the nose ofthe pliers. Trim the wire nextto the bend. Open a simpleloop just as you would a jumpring.conehead pinseye pinsHEAD PINS are straight wireswith a flat disc, ball, or othershape at one end. EYE PINSare straight wires that end ina loop.For additional technique information,including videos and illustrations,visit beadingdaily.com and click onthe “glossary” tab. 2010 Interweave. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.page 13Use CONES to finish a multistrand piece. Attach eachstrand of beads to a wrappedloop or an eye pin. Use thewrapped-loop wire or eye pinto string the wide end of acone, covering the ends of thestrands; form a wrapped loopat the tip of the cone thatattaches to a clasp

with another bead, attaching one of the loops to a loop of the first link before coiling the tail down the neck of the wire. Wrapped-Loop baiLs 8. Center the bead on a 3" or longer piece of wire. Bend both ends of the wire up the sides of the bead. 9, 10. Bend one end straight up at the center of the