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2Los AngelesFood and drink—Los Angeles—Food and drinkMtsty treaea—Bestia’scharcuterieis madeon-siteThe Larchmont, Larchmont VillageLocal favouriteBaroo, HollywoodGood Korea moveThis neighbourhood haunt in acosy Arts & Crafts house has beenserving wholesome fare since 2013.Chef Michael Bryant’s cuisine isCalifornia-meets-Europe: a small,seasonal menu inspired by hissouthern upbringing and Frenchroots. While the kitchen is knownfor its harissa scallops and charredoctopus, Bryant’s traditional friedchicken is also a perennial favourite.The restaurant has quite afollowing among celebrities sotables can be scarce. Not to worry:barman Chris Kramer will mix youa cocktail as you wait on the patio.5750 Melrose Avenue, 9003811 323 464 4277thelarchmont.comAt first glance this South Koreanvenue doesn’t seem that promisinga prospect: it’s cheap as chips, tinyand located in a mall. Happilythough, Baroo exceeds allexpectations. The kimchi fried rice– with its sous vide poached egg,gremolata and pineapple-jalapeñosalsa – or the spicy oxtail ragúwith homemade noodles couldeasily grace the tables of anyfine-dining establishment. KwangUh (pictured, left) and partnerMatthew Kim don’t skimp onvisuals, ingredients or flavour.5706 Santa Monica Boulevard, 9003811 323 819 4344baroola.strikingly.comTacosBestia, Arts DistrictPizza and pasta perfectionThis place is so popular thata reservation may take weeks (soplan ahead). Walk-ins can findspace among the ample bar seating:a bonus is the appetite-stimulatingview of the woodfired oven bakingthe pizzas – doughy slices of heaven.Husband-and-wife owners OriMenashe and Genevieve Gergishave created a rustic Italian menuwith pastas and charcuterie madein-house. The casarecce al pomodoro(semolina pasta with tomato, freshricotta and basil) and the saffronpasta parcel with braised lamb andpine nuts are true crowd-pleasers.2121 East 7th Place, 9002111 213 514 5724bestiala.com03401 Guisados, BoyleHeights: Tacos don’tcome much moreauthentic than this. Thesignage is underwhelmingbut the food will impress,especially the stewedmeat tacos.guisados.co02 Villa Moreliana,Downtown: The menumay be small but thatdoesn’t stop the puntersfrom queuing up to samplewhat are perhaps LA’sfinest carnitas (slowcooked pork inspiredby the traditions ofMichoacan).grandcentralmarket.com03 Ricky’s Fish Tacos,East Hollywood: Thisfood truck is somethingof a legend. Serving theEast Hollywood, LosFeliz and Silver Lakecatchment area, it’s whereto go if you’ve had enoughof meat-heavy tacos;fillings include fish, prawnand even lobster.The truck is usually at1400 North Virgil AvenueWolf, West HollywoodEdible artistryChef Marcel Vigneron openedWolf in early 2016. The decor andthe music may be a little flashy forour tastes but the dishes come outof the kitchen bursting with flavour.“We want our food and cultureto capture the zeitgeist that makesup modern-day Los Angeles,” saysVigneron. The beetroot is dressedlike a work of art, the cod sitsbeautifully in a flavourful brothand the burnt carrots are cookedto perfection. And then there arethe crispy potatoes. Light asair on the inside with a perfectlycrunchy exterior.7661 Melrose Avenue, 9004611 323 424 7735wolfdiningla.com035

2Los AngelesFood and drink—Los Angeles—Food and drinkJuice barsIn a city as obsessed withhealth and beauty as LA, it’sno surprise that Angelenos gowild for cold-pressed juices.Here’s our pick of the bestspots for a fresh squeeze.Norah, West HollywoodOutstanding food and serviceNorah opened amid much fanfarein early 2016. Despite its expansivespace on Santa Monica Boulevardit doesn’t miss on making guestsfeel welcome. The menu is alsosurprising: adventurous yetaccessible. The food changesslightly every day but look out forthe uni-butter poached prawn andcauliflower popcorn; or considergoing all-in with the tasting menu.There is some questionableart on the walls but that’s a minordetail compared to the outstandingfood and service.8279 Santa Monica Boulevard, 9004611 323 450 4211norahrestaurant.com036Walk-in style—Norah is perpetually popular,not least because of itsknowledgable and friendlystaff. When the restaurant isfully booked with reservationsgrab a seat at the bar; it’salso possible to stroll in andscore a place at the high-topcommunal tables.01 Juice Served Here,citywide: Given thefashion-industrybackgrounds of foundersAlex Matthews andGreg Alterman, it’snot surprising that thepackaging of LA’s mostbeloved juice chain isso pleasing to the eye.The juices live up to thehype and friendly staffare always happyto assist, whetheryou’re after a cleansinggreen number or acreamy Super Chocsmoothie made withnuts and cacao.juiceservedhere.com02 Moon Juice, citywide:This chain borderson parody, with its allwhite interiors and freshfaced staff. With productnames such as BlueMoon Protein and SexDust, Moon Juice trulyhas the most “exotic”selection of juices around.moonjuiceshop.com03 Café Gratitude,citywide: This brandmay have some hippietendencies but the juicesare delicious and thestaff charming. If you’reon the picky side, theymay even be kind enoughto make you a specialconcoction of your own.Don’t be alarmed if itcomes with an affirmationfrom your server.cafegratitude.comGjelina, VeniceBrunch bonanzaThis is something of a Veniceinstitution and a brand in itsown right; Gjusta bakery (see page43) is from the same team. Thedecor is modern, if a little generic,but what brings the punters herein their hordes is the cuisine.Good for brunch, the menu isextensive – think everything fromporridge to pizzas – meaningyou’re sure to find somethingtoothsome. The Moroccan bakedeggs with merguez sausage,swimming in tomato sauce withyoghurt and coriander, will bustany hangover.1429 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, 9029111 310 450 1429gjelina.comPot, KoreatownChoi’s morselsThis venue is a tribute to SouthKorean cuisine and culture courtesyof Roy Choi, whose CV includespioneering the food-truck revolutionin LA and inventing the Koreantaco. Pot opened in 2014 in thepolychrome Line Hotel and hasdelectable dishes from kimchi tohickory-smoked duck breast. Thenoodle-based hot pots are the mainevent and though the ingredientsmay seem haphazard there’s methodto Choi’s madness. The restaurantalso holds events such as Tribe TacoTuesday, a mellow evening of livemusic, tacos and cocktails.3515 Wilshire Boulevard, 9001011 213 368 3030eatatpot.comGracias Madre, West HollywoodNatural appealGracias Madre’s elegant interior –with its tiled bar and natural lighting– may distract you from the factthat you’re looking at a plant-basedmenu. But it’s not a smokescreen:the food makes this a firm favouriteamong omnivores and herbivoresalike. Think hearty vegetable tacosand potato-masa cakes with salsa.Beverage director Jason Eisnerbrings a dizzying number ofsmall-batch mezcals and tequilasto the spirits list, plus an inventiverange of cocktails (including a nonpsychoactive line madewith cannabis essential oils).8905 Melrose Avenue, 9006911 323 978 2170graciasmadreweho.comNothing like atequila cocktailto stimulatean appetitefor tacos037

Los AngelesFood and drink—Before Nobu made chef NobuyukiMatsuhisa an internationally fêtedname, he was using his surname(as opposed to his nickname) forthis establishment. The chef startedhis eponymous US restaurant inthe late 1980s after stints in SouthAmerica and Alaska, and it’sstill a classic today. The exterioris unassuming but the food isphenomenal. The long menuof hot and cold dishes can beoverwhelming so we recommendthe omakase menu – a selection ofMatsuhisa’s best signature creations.129 North La CienegaBoulevard, 9021111 310 659 9639nobumatsuhisa.comCoffeePerfect perksBlacktop, Arts DistrictTop-notch brewsBlacktop’s coffee, expertly craftedby some of the city’s best baristas,will draw you to this neighbourhoodspot like a magnet. By the timeowner Tyler Wells opened the shopin 2014 he had already made aname for himself in the business;his previous project, HandsomeCoffee Roasters, had been famedfor its anti-sugar policy. “Blacktopis simpler,” says Wells. “It’s justa little pavement café.” And thisstraightforward approach is whatmakes the place ideal for a cup ofcold brew after a morning perusingthe local art spaces.826 East 3rd Street, 9001311 213 599 8496blacktop.lan beanee—Vervealso has anoutpost inJapansMatsuhisa, Beverly HillsNobu prototypeLos Angeles—Food and drinkK2République, La BreaPolished classicsBoth Margarita and WalterManzke have first-rate culinarybackgrounds from time spentin top kitchens around theworld. République serves classic(perhaps a little safe) fodderbut what it does, it does well.There are dishes such as perfectlyal dente pappardelle with porkragout and rack of lamb fromNorthern Cali’s Marin Sun Farms.The temple-like building,constructed in 1928 by CharlieChaplin and designed by architectRoy Sheldon Price has a grandtiled courtyard and gabled ceiling.624 South La Brea Avenue, 9003611 310 362 6115republiquela.comBread & breakfast—In a city where diners can be alittle squeamish about gluten,the breads, brioches andcroissants on République’sbreakfast menu are a rareindulgence. It’s all thanksto the restaurant’s Frenchinfluence – and to the artistryof owner Margarita.038Verve Coffee Roasters, DowntownCaffeine and juiceVerve coffee can be found acrossLA, although its headquarters androasters are in Santa Cruz. OwnersRyan O’Donovan and Colby Barrlearned the ropes at a series ofother ventures before starting theirown business in 2007. The duois committed to sourcing qualitybeans from around the world, witha focus on Latin America andAfrica. Their industrial-lookingshop in Downtown was designedby Studio mai and does doubleduty as a coffee house and juiceryin conjunction with Juice ServedHere (see page 36).833 South Spring Street, 9001411 213 455 5991vervecoffee.comOf course Idrink coffee,I’m nocturnal039

Los AngelesFood and drink—Los Angeles—Food and drinkLunchMidday pit stopscountldr—BrentwoodCountry Martopened in the1940sKyle Glanville and Charles Babinskideliver the highest-quality cupswithout the pretention that canoften accompany serious brewing.They trawl samples from hundredsof roasters, selecting favouritesthrough blind tasting, and the resultis a diverse menu of the best roastsavailable. Their first location – atGrand Central Market, under thename G&B – has a bar-service feelbut this Larchmont space providesa small breakfast and lunch menuand room for you to linger.230 North LarchmontBoulevard, 9000411 323 380 5359gandb.coffeeyGo Get Em Tiger,Larchmont VillageRoar appealO2Farmshop, Santa MonicaCalifornia cuisineSet in the quaint BrentwoodCountry Mart, Farmshop ispart restaurant, part specialitygrocers. “I wanted to createa restaurant focused on localproducers and artisans,” sayschef and owner Jeff Cerciello,formerly of Thomas Keller’srestaurant group. Under culinarydirector Brian Reimer (pictured,below), Farmshop serves Californiainspired food: think crispyartichokes with burrata andpesto, and marinated Pacificsardines. It’s best in the daywhile the market is buzzing.225 26th Street, Suite 25, 9040211 310 566 2400farmshopca.comFlowerboy Project, VeniceMixed bunchBondi Harvest, Santa MonicaWizards of OzThis Sydney import came to LosAngeles in spring 2016 and thelaidback café turns out perfect Aussieflat whites and healthy brekkies.Owners Mark Alston and GuyTurland keep the menu simple andclean, serving dishes such as quinoaand coconut-cream porridge or theRad Bowl with chimichurri-dressedcauliflower rice and fermentedvegetables. Though it’s not thatclose to the shore, the whitewashedinterior packs the vibe of a seasideshack – and the atmosphere isenough to make you feel like you’rehanging out down under.1814 Berkeley Street, 9040411 310 586 7419bondiharvest.cafe040Flowerboy Project – opened bylong-time Venice resident SeanKnibbs in summer 2015 – packsa lot in. Part flower shop, partboutique, part coffeehouse, itsells an eclectic mix of goods,including pale-hued ceramics,notebooks from Public Supply,perfumes from Fiele Fragrancesand house-made nut butters. TheVittoria coffee is served alongsidepastries from various suppliersand a selection of toasts (the tahinioffering, topped with sesame,ground hibiscus and thyme, isas good as it sounds).824 Lincoln Boulevard, 9029111 310 452 3900flowerboyproject.comWinsome, Echo ParkSunshine on SunsetSet in a residential building in EchoPark, Winsome is slightly off thebeaten path – but it’s well worthgoing out of your way to find thissunny restaurant. The interior issleek and pretty; its caramel-huedbooths are inviting and the lengthybar has ample seating to view themagic in the kitchen. There’s alsoa large open patio on which tosoak up the rays. As to chef JeremyStrubel’s menu, it’s straightforwardand simple but all of the dishes arepacked with flavour. The excellentburger alone makes Winsome achoice spot.1115 Sunset Boulevard, 9001211 213 415 1818eatwinsome.comPicnic? I prefer to sayI’m dining owl fresco041

2Los AngelesFood and drink—Los Angeles—Food and drinkI’m just putting thefinal touches to myscreenplay then it’s offto my power lunchGjusta, VeniceWell breadLt orderas—Make sureyou order bythe 14.00cut-offsPower lunchPart of the Gjelina empire and theplace where the restaurant’s breadis expertly baked, Gjusta is thecafé arm of the hugely successfulmain locale on Venice’s AbbotKinney (see page 37). Here it’s allabout swift, ticketed service thatis intended to get you up closeand personal with cakes, scones,cookies and some particularly goodsourdough bread (all teasing youfrom behind the glass) as soon aspossible. It’s also a decent spot forbreakfast and sandwiches. Perch ona bar stool inside, or there’s outdoorseating (if you can grab a spot).320 Sunset Avenue, 9029111 310 314 0320gjusta.comMixing business with food isperfectly permissible in LA,but rarely outside of officehours: the healthy option of abrisk lunch is preferred overboozy dinners with clients(perhaps because so manyAngelenos are anxious to geton the busy freeway to headhome). With this in mind,here’s our top-three spotsfor a business lunch.01 Otium, Downtown: Anairy, laidback restaurantwith an emphasis onrustic cooking withsustainable ingredients.otiumla.com02 Redbird, Downtown:Located inside a formercathedral rectory, thisspacious restaurantis a temple to modernAmerican cuisine. Withprivate-dining optionsfor those businesssensitive meetings.redbird.la03 The Polo Lounge,Beverly Hills: A favouredhaunt of celebritiessince the 1930s, thisBeverly Hills Hotelfixture is the epitomeof old-world glamour.dorchestercollection.com042Trois Familia, Silver LakeFrench-Mexican fusionSqirl, Silver LakeJam packedFrench chef Ludo Lefebvre hasmade quite the buzz around LAwith Petit Trois (see page 32)and Trois Mec. Next up is TroisFamilia, in a nondescript strip mallon Sunset Boulevard (understatedlocations and frontage are somethingof a Lefebvre signature). Openfor breakfast and lunch only, it’s aMexican-French fusion – althoughthe menu skews towards Mexican.Take some of the more decadentcreations, for instance: doubledecker potato tacos served withlime, crème fraîche and jackcheese. So wrong, so good.3510 Sunset Boulevard, 9002611 323 725 7800troisfamilia.comThis postage stamp-sized café ischarming, filled with attractivepeople and serves easy-going fare.It’s perpetually popular too, whichmay mean a bit of a wait – but it’sa small price to pay for the rhubarblemonade and the sorrel-pestorice bowl. In fact the biggest markagainst Sqirl is that it’s only openuntil 16.00. The good news is thatbreakfast is served all day long tocater to the varied schedules ofAngelenos. Sqirl’s signature jamscan also be found all over the city(when it first opened in 2011, it wasjust a preserves company).4/720 Virgil Avenue, 9002911 323 284 8147sqirlla.comBe prepared—Whether in the market fora baklava croissant or lox oncrispy rye toast from Gjusta,it’s a good idea to know yourorder before you make itto the till. This placeis constantly packed andthere’s no time for fuss.043

2Los AngelesFood and drink—Los Angeles—Food and drinkGrand Central MarketStall storiesMarket stallsGrand Central Market openedon Broadway in Downtownin 1917 but it’s undergonea facelift of sorts over thepast few years. Today it’shome to a fascinating mix ofold and new sellers; here isour pick of the stalls to visit.grandcentralmarket.com01 Madcapra: An allthings-vegetable falafelshop? They might limitthemselves to plantbased ingredients butSara Kramer and SarahHymanson’s dishes jumpwith flavour and zest. “Ifeel like the market is theseat of a lot of change inLA so it’s exciting to watchthat from the inside,” saysHymanson. Try the greenfalafel sandwich, whichshe describes as “nottraditional at all”.Stall B-1002 La Tostadería: This stallserves delicious seafood,including fish tacos andspicy ceviche. “This isa real Mexican placeserving modern cuisine,”says founder FernandoVillagomez, who alsoowns another stand, VillaMoreliana, that focuses ontraditional pork carnitas.Stall E-1003 China Café: This is oneof the oldest stands inthe market: it dates from1959. Try Chinese classicssuch as chow mein andchop suey. “People tell methey’ve been coming heresince they were babies –and now they’re bringingtheir own families,” saysowner Rinco Cheung.Stall C-14044045

2Los AngelesFood and drink—Cole’s, DowntownOld schoolCovell, Los FelizAll about the alcoholThere’s a “hidden” bar out theback of Cole’s that isn’t that muchof a secret any more: it feels a littlestilted and, dare we say it, passé.It’s more fun in our book to spendtime in Cole’s itself, an old-time barfounded in 1908 and refurbished in2008. It’s all wooden panelling anddark-red leather seating but this is nopurveyor of lite beer, friends: it hassome of the best cocktails in townserved by knowledgeable staff. Onesuch legend was Jimmy Barela, whotended the bar for 63 years beforeretiring in 1983. There’s a picture ofhim on the wall. Rightfully so.118 East 6th Street, 9001411 213 622 4090colesfrenchdip.comThis has quickly establisheditself as a destination bar. Why?Because the co-owners are prettyserious about the drinks, so muchso that the food seems merely anafterthought. Covell was openedin 2010 by Dustin Lancaster andMatthew Kaner. The former hadworked at Café Stella (see below)and the latter had spent time atSilverlake Wine. Covell is the sweetsymbiosis of their shared interests,offering eight rotating beers ontap and 150 wines by the glass,all within a rustic-chic, warmlyglowing enclave.4628 Hollywood Boulevard, 9002711 323 660 4400barcovell.comThe Tower Bar, West HollywoodClassy classicSituated in the art deco landmarkSunset Tower Hotel (see page 16), thisbar’s walnut-panelled walls, fireplaceand live jazz make a visit feel like astep back in time. Veteran maître d’Dimitri Dimitrov keeps the classiccocktail lounge running smoothlyand is a major reason why it hasbecome an LA legend; the whitejacket-clad staff servicing the 80-seatroom are of the highest quality too.Classic mixes bode well here butThe Dimitri (muddled Luxardocherry, gin, spirit Veev and lime) is acontemporary alternative. Pair it withan old-school prawn cocktail.8358 Sunset Boulevard, 9006911 323 848 6677sunsettowerhotel.com046mning rooai—Cole’s is theold HQ of thePacific ElectricrailwayTrDrinksBottoms upLos Angeles—Food and drinkBar Marmont, West HollywoodHollywood legendChez Jay, Santa MonicaDive innThe interior of one of LA’s bestknown cocktail lounges is drippingwith old Hollywood glam butmanages to stay on the right side ofgood taste. Tactile fittings – leathercouches, tasselled lampshades andplush wall-coverings – and dimlighting create a warm space with aclassic feel. Keeping with the theme,the best drinks on the menu arethe tried-and-trues, so tuck into asidecar and sink back into your seat.Turn up early and you may findyourself with only one or two othersat the bar; if you’ve come here toparty, aim to arrive late and in style.8171 West Sunset Boulevard, 9004611 323 650 0575chateaumarmont.comThere’s nothing like a good divebar, especially if it’s in a ratherover-polished area such as SantaMonica. Chez Jay is the sort ofplace where you know the nononsense barmaid’s name andyou can spot the regulars, whostay away from fancy drinks.It’s also in a beer-buzzed timewarp; it’s been going since 1959 andhas seen Hollywood A-listers and theRat Pack pass through. Movies havebeen written and rehearsed here butultimately it’s all about having a colddrink at the bar, quietly shelteredfrom the winds of change outside.1657 Ocean Avenue, 9040111 310 395 1741chezjays.combut it’s in the adjoining bar thatthe real action takes place. Sipon tipples such as Son of a Priest(made with Willett rare-releaserye, Campari and Averna) andtake a seat at the bar or on oneof the comfy sofas around theflanks. This place tends to getpacked most evenings but there’salways respite to be found onthe pretty outdoor patio if it getsa little overwhelming.3932 Sunset Boulevard, 9002911 323 666 0265cafestella.comCafé Stella, Silver LakeStarry nightsOkay, so it may be a little sceneybut Café Stella is nonetheless oneof the best bars on LA’s easternside. Indeed, with its constantlyevolving roster of potent, seasonalcocktails you would be hardpushed to put a foot wrong withyour drinks select

Los Angeles Food and drink— 030 2 Los Angeles —Food and drink 031 Sushi Gen, Little Tokyo Catch this fish This hole-in-the-wall sushi restaurant, set in a less-than-picturesque strip mall, is a rare gem; authentic, unpretentious and serving some of the best sushi in town. Step inside and