WIXLIB

MACHINE FORGINGmovedrests7any part of the shop desired, since the basedirectly on the shop floor without any othertofoundation.Cutting Off Steel.roundsteelshownin Fig.on— Cutting-offtools for cutting offthe anvil in the blacksmith shop areT.Fig.The bottom6.cutterisatA, the upperAnvil Mounted on Base.or hand cutter at B, and atCround bar in positionto be cut off.The tools should be tempered the sameas a cold chisel, as described later, and they will befound a very useful addition to the blacksmith's outfit.To break large bars of steel under the steam hammer, after nicking around the bar as shown at X, Fig.8, place two small, round pieces of steel A A on theisabottom die of the steam hammer: thenrest the bar

THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDEwhichto be broken on these pieces,isand place an-other small piece of steel on top of the bar in the center, atB.Bystriking aAbe easily broken.littlewateris firstgoodblow the barsolidbar will break more readily—chined.forgingsifapoured around the nicks.Heating and Forging. Carelessnesshammering either machine or tool steelmanywillprovingIf a piece ofsteel isandthe cause ofisafterdefectiveroundin heatingbeingma-heated too quickly UVFig.7.Cutting-off Tools.and drawn down under the hammeras at A, Fig.9.when machineditwill beconcaveThis causes a parting of the metal, andshow checks and cracksof considerable size. The same results will follow ifnot properly hammered, even if the piece is carefullyIf the blows are not heavy enough to affectheated.the metal at the center of the bar the outside will drawthe piece will

MACHINE FORGING\/UnvFig.8.Breakingout, leaving the center as atLargeA;butStock.heated uniformlyifand drawn down under a hammer that gives blowsheavy enough to affect the center of the bar, the endwillbe convex as at B, making aIn the daysforgingwewhen wroughtironmuchwas usedstronger job.formachinecould weld up such defects as the fore-going and they would not be noticed but with steel itis different and the defects cannot be hidden by weld;Fig.9.

THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDE10There is so much trouble from bad judgment inheating and working steel that a tool machined fromthe bar and hardened and tempered will give bettersatisfaction than if forged by the average smith. Thising.hammering applies to workdone on the anvil with the hand hammer as well asunder a steam or trip hammer. The steel should becaution about heating andproperly heated and the blows should be rapid andheavy enough to affect the center of the bar, even whenmaking so small a thing as a chisel or a center punch.Someblacksmiths depend tooNow,finishing a forging.in amuch onthefileforshop where there areemery wheels, shapers and planers, lathes and millingmachines, there is no excuse for a blacksmith spending half his time filing his work.Ofcourse, in crossroads blacksmith shops this cannot be avoidedam nowIlike to see athe floor, hot, rightsmith throw his workdown onfrom the hammer, and notthe stock offallIreferring to shops connected with the largefactories.rubbut;whenithas to betry toor ma-filedchined to a finish in some other department.Tongs,likefullers,flattersand swages, are madeby drop forging, so that the blacksmith has veryof this kind ofitworktocontend with by hand.does not pay to bother tomake anylittleIn fact,but special tongswanted at once and cannot be purchased orwould take some time to get by sending forA quick and handy way to make a pair of lightthat arethatitthem.tongsisindicated in Fig. 10.Takea piece of flatshownx x andstock of the size required and flatten the ends asin thetwo views,Aand B.Then punchholes

MACHINE FORGING11cut along the dotted line in lower view,the handlesthe jaws toandC ; round uptwo parts together then heata bright red and cool off, at the same timexOrivet the;V-,O"Fig. 10 Fig. 11Fig.12MethodofMaking Blacksmith's Tongs.

THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDE12opening and closingworktountil cold.insteadfreelyThis allows the tongsof binding and beingstiff.This should be done with any pair of tongs which getsstiffforwant ofIf largeruse.tongs are to be made, Fig. 11 showshoweach jaw can be produced in three operations and inFig. 13.Heading Tool.one heat by a smart smith and his helper. The firstoperation is to flatten down from the square stock tothe desired size as at A, holding the piece so that thetoward the square end of- the anvil,or to the right hand of the smith, and letting the stockAfterall draw out toward the left end of the anvil.straight side will beflattening to the desired thickness turn theleft,at B,be punchedworkandflatten the stockto the leftin position C.Nowwhere the holeistoarm holdingagain and shove the jaw farfor the rivet.enough over thepartto thegiving the piece a quarter turn to the positionshownthearmturn theanvil so that the piece can be forgedFinally change ends andmarked X, and weld on the handle.draw out the

MACHINE FORGINGThesizeof a pair of tongslength of the part fromABis13governed by theand also remember that all flat jaw tongs should be grooved witha V or oval as in the end views C and D in Fig. 12.This allows the smith to hold any shape stock thatcomes his way. The indentation should be only partway along the jaw as indicated by the dotted line at X.toin Fig. 12;—Heading Tool. Fig. 13 shows a handy heading toolfor special work that cannot be done in the commonheading tool. The heavy part A should be of tooland the handles B and C, which are of machineThe tool can be made in differentsteel, welded on.sizes and different sized holes drilled when the headingtool is closed, to accommodate work of different dimensions.The two parts of the tool should be fastenedsteeltogether with a strong rivet.Bending Fork.— In Fig.14isa side and edge viewof a smith's bending fork, a veryhandytooland onemade. It has a square shank B to fit in theand two round prongs A A by which the bending is accomplished. A flat bar C is shown betweenthe prongs in the right position for bending.easilyanvilIn Fig. 15thebysameisa bending fork to be used in theThis toolas a wrench.machinistsandAused a great dealmakingthisto round piece B,Fig.assemblers.fork weld a round pieceishandInby a cleft weld and then turn up the end as indicated by the dotted line. A stronger fork can be madewithout a weld as shown in Fig. 17. Take a flat bar16,of a size suited to the size of tool wanted anddraw outBalong thethe round handleA; andthen cut out piece

THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDE14dotted lines.bending forkThisifaisperhaps the best way to make apower hammerisAat hand.AC1\BFig. 145Fig. 151Fig.16Fig. 17BendingBevel Set.— InFig. 18Forks.isa bevel bottom set thattakes the place of a fuller and must be used in conjunc-

MACHINE FORGING15tion with the top bevel set in Fig. 19.better than either fullers or chiselsTop and Bottom Bevelworkpartthatismarkedshownbe drawnThesefor the class ofSets.started asin Fig.Aout.istosets areItwhere themakes a neat20,

THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDE16smallfilletx and produceson the work.InFig.sideD18Fig-.Aisthe end view andPlaner21.view of the bottoma straight, square shoulderset,whileBtheBolt.Cisthe end view andthe side view of the anvil.Bolts for Planers.— Fig.21 shows a bolt for drop-ping into the slots in any part of a planer bed, thusdoing away with starting at the end of the planer toFig. 22.slide the bolt to place, asheadbolts.WhenisPuller.done with ordinary squaremake a T-head offorging this bolt,the proper width atoff the cornersKeyB B.Atofitthe planer slot; then cutThis bolt can be dropped into

MACHINE FORGINGplace and turned to the right so that faces17BBwilltighten against the inside walls of the planer slots asthe nutisscrewed up.If quite anumberof thesebolts of different lengths are furnished for each planerin theshopplanerwork anditwill lessen the cost of getting out theFig.will23.makethe planer hand happy.Assistant forFig.Key—A usefulKeyPuller.24.machine shop, toolroom, erecting room, repair department and shippingroom is the jimmie-bar or key puller and its assistant.Fig. 22 shows side and front view of jimmie-bar andPuller.Fig. 23 sidetool forand front view of theassistant.Fig. 24

THE BLACKSMITHS GUIDE18shows the bottomjimmie-bar.sizes,fuller in anvil,The barismadefrom Yi inch octagonused in making: thein different lengthsto1 andinch round, andFig.25Fig.26Making an Open-end Wrench.from 12 inchesa key,firstto 36 inches in length.startitWhenpullingwith the end of bar markedthen use the other end of bar.If theX;key cannot be

MACHINE FORGING19removed with the bar alone, place the assistant betweenthe hub and key and you can then remove the keyeasily.Thisismuchhour for a blockisbetter than looking for half anto placebetween the hub and key, asusually done.iI(I I(IXFig. 28.Fig. 27.WrenchOpen End Wrench.wrench,it isBlocks.—In making an open end orthe usual practice todraw outSthe handleand round up the end as in Fig. 25, and then cut outthe opening to the size wanted as indicated by the

THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDE20dotted lines.This requires a large piece of stock, andmaywhileitcases,it isbe best to follow this method in somenot always necessary.to take a small piece of steel,Aconvenientwayisdraw out the handle A,Fig. 26, split open the end as at B, spread out to theand then bend the jaws of theright angle as at C,Fig.29.wrench to the required size and shape. This may bemost conveniently done by having a wrench block asshownin Fig.which can be made either of27,iron or steel and arranged tofitcastin the square hole inswage block.By havingseveral steps or shoulders the wrench block will answerfor all sizes of wrenches used in the average shop.The one in Fig. 27 is in five different sizes, from A toE, and is one of the handiest tools to be found in atheanvilsmith shop.orinalargeThe square shank designedin the anvil is atX inFig. 27.toIn Fig. 28the holefitisawrenchblock for a spanner wrench, which will be describedshortly.Avery strong and handy wrench can bemade byrounding up part of a square bar and bending asFig. 29.in

MACHINE FORGING21—Socket Wrench. In making a socket wrench wesometimes draw down a stem on a large piece of steel,XZ.Fig.30Fig.31Fig.Making32a SocketWrench.get a hole drilled at the large end and thenmandrel or nut, as the case mayT-handle.be,fitto aand weld on a

THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDE22Theillustrations (Figs. 30-32)show howImakea/2 -mch nut.In Fig. 30' assume the piece A to be Y\- by l -inchflat stockB, a piece of -inch round and C a piecesocket wrench for anything larger than a;1l;AFig.3'5Socket and Spanner Wrenches.of -inch square stock.stock as at A, Fig. 31;Makefrom the flatfrom the %-incha collaralso a collar

MACHINE FORGING23square stock and weld the latter on the end of the -inch roundC and B, Fig. 31.) NowC into the end of the col-(Seebar.drive the bar with the collarAand weld and fit to a nut or mandrel, making aBy welding a crosspiece which looks like Fig. 32.piece on the other end of the g-inch round bar wehave a T-handle socket wrench as in Fig. 33. Again,by bending the bar B (Fig. 34) and riveting on awooden block D at the end we have a brace which isvery handy for putting on nuts rapidly where there islarworka lot of thisto do.Spanner Wrench.— Fig. 35 shows a spanner wrench,a tool that blacksmiths are sometimes calledmakein different sizes.andmarked A,of a wrenchmust be made the properIn some casesto the user.Fig. 35,in others oblong.toItshape to give satisfactionthe partuponAwas shownisrequired to be round,block for bending this kindinFig.28.This form orblock (same as in Fig. 27) can be set in the anvil orswage block by having a square shank X. Have arow of keyways cut along one side at a, a, etc., anda row of different sized holes drilled on the oppositeThis forms a handy tool for bendingside b b, etc.a spanner wrench to the proper size in one heat.,Turnbuckle or Swivel.—Directionswillfirstbegiven for the swivel, since the same steps are followedinmakinga turnbuckle.First select a piece offlatstock and bend into a collar like the one in Fig. 36,with the ends separated atdistance dependingthatisto bemade.part of the swivel.Aby about Y%inch, thissomewhat upon the size of swivelThis collar is to form the threadedCut a groove y y on eachside of

24THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDEthe collar.Nowsizetake a piece of round stock of therequired for the yoke, and bend as in Fig. 37,making the distance x x between the two endslessy between the grooves of theThis is so that when the yoke isthan the distancecollar in Fig. 36.y% inch3'sprung over the collar ready for weldingitwill stayFig. 36akxFig.37PiecesforMakingaSwivel.Drive the yoke down along the grooves y y,take a welding heat and weld as shown in Fig. 38,in place.A is the collar, B a mandrel driven. into the colandCD swages, and E the anvil. By having themandrel ready to slip in the collar it forms a solid supwherelar,portwhen welding withthetwo swages.shows two views of a completed swivel.Fig.39

MACHINE FORGING25In making a turnbuckle, first complete a swivel asabove directed, and then cut through at X, Fig. 38,straighten out the yoke at the ends, and weld to anothercollar, repeating the operations above outlined fortheother end of the turnbuckle".Fig.39ACompleted Swivel and MethodofForging.

THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDE26Crankshaft.—If calledas in Fig. 41, withupontwo cranks,maketofirstcranks on the same side, as in Fig. 40a crankshaft,forge with both;then heat atXand twist into shape.* In this way it can be madefrom smaller stock than as though it were forged atfirstwith the cranks opposite in their correct relativepositions.Fig.40Fig.41Crankshaft.—Making a Square Corner in Heavy Stock. I haveknown blacksmiths to work hard for four or five hourson a job like Fig. 42, made from 2 -inch squarestock,when,described,itifthey had followed the method herecould have been done in half the time andwould have givenknow howjust asdifficultitisgoodsatisfaction.to squareAll smithsup the outside cor-made from 2 -inch square stock,To make an angle like this, select aner of a pieceas atX, Fig.piece42.of square stock of the size called for by the drawing,allowing for finishcut about halfifrequired.way throughWiththe hot chiselthe bar as at A, Fig. 43,

MACHINE FORGINGand bend as shown27which will open up the outside corner, as indicated at x, and give an opportunityto weld in a piece for the purpose of building up aat B,good, solid square corner.To dothis,take a barCofFig. 42arFig.43Forging a Square Corner.smaller square stock, heat and cut one end nearlyXoweven up the sides of the openingoff.in the corner ofB, take a welding heat on the end of C, and weld thepiece cut offof B.andwillfrom the smaller barinto theThe corner can then be hammeredopen cornerout squareby the dotted lines, and the jobbe stronger and done much quicker than by tryingtrue, as indicated

THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDE28to squareitby peckingatituntilyou aretiredandget a cold shut in the inside corner of the angle, asvou are almost sure todo.BXDFig.Making44.aDouble Angle.—Making a Double Angle. Another troublesome jobis to make a double angle from any flat stock overone half inch thick. To do this, take a square bar ofthe required size and cut asshowncut off the corner at the dotted line.hammerdrivedownshape shown at B.along the dottedatA, Fig. 44, andThen, with asetpart x, getting the piece into theFinally, cut off the right-hand end,line a band repeat the operation forthe second angle, as indicated at C, thus getting agood, solid forging, like that shown at D, where theend view appears at the left and the side view at theright.betterEven if making a single angle, as at E, it isto make it in this same wav if above half an

MACHINE FORGING29inch thick and two inches wide, for the simple reasonthat afteryour hard workallinthe usualwaybending and working up a square corner, youalways find a cold shutDirectionswith machine forgingswillat the inside corner.Welding.forofwe— Beforegoingfurtherup the question ofwelding. I have seen blacksmiths take a dozen heatstrying to make a weld and put in six or eight "dutchmen" before they got through with it. The dutchmen can be used to good advantage in some cases, aswillIexplainwill takefurther on,should not be used.be kept in shape.Itbut in other cases theyFor good welding the fire mustshould be deep and have a clean,heavy bed underneath the parts aboutto be welded.Only just enough blast should be used to supply therequired heat, and the heating should be done slowlyrather than too fast. Underheating will give a barkw eld. The pieces will stick on the outside and be openinside, making a deceptive and dangerous piece ofwork. If the fire is shallow and dirty the oxygen willoxidize the parts, making it impossible to weld them.TFluxes are used to prevent the oxidation of theor iron.Any goodAboutsteelflux that will exclude the air willgood as any that I have used, andone of the cheapest, is powder made by pounding upwhite marble chips. This powder will not fall off andleave the steel exposed to the air.For welding toolanswer.steel there isasnothing better than borax.pieces in the fire after scarfingand dippingalways turn them so the scarfwillIn placingin the flux,come uppermost,away from the blast and preventing the flux from dropping off into the fire butthus keeping the scarf;

:THE BLACKSMITH'S GUIDE30just before the pieces are ready to bethefireturn the scarf down, andremove thetoflux.when taking outtodirt,but not hardBy keepinga clean fire aweld, tap lightly, to shake off theenoughremoved fromsmith should have no trouble in welding any kind ofweldableWesteelwillor iron.nowconsider the different kinds of weldsScarf, butt, lap, cleftand jump welds.Fig. 45Fig.46Correctly formed Scarfs for Welding.Scarf Weld.roundIfabout to make a scarf weld withstock, the scarf should beFig. 45, whichpiece.—Somemade narrow,shows the top andsmithsmakebar to be welded, whichissideas at A,view of the samethe scarf wider than thenot a correct method, sinceon the edge of the weld the thin part of thepucker and cool so quickly that another heatin strikingscarf willisnecessary.Thenthe dirt will get in and a bad weld

MACHINE FORGINGthe result, and especially soisflatstockisbeingFlat stock should be scarfed about as in Fig.welded.46,if31which shows the e

CONTENTS. ChapterI.MachineForging 1 ReadingDrawings—InstructionsShouldbeClear—Ar- rangingForgesinaShop—TheAnvilBlock—CuttingOff Steel—HeatingandForging—Tongs—He