Training Manual - Keratin Complex

Transcription

Training ManualYour color, imagined.1

Table of Contents04 Keratin Complex Color Story06 How does Keratin Complex Color work?08 Hair Structure10 Hair Color12 The Law of Color14 Developers/Llightener15 Decolorizing Process16 Gray Coverage/Formulations17 Permanent Color20 Demi–Permanent Color20 Semi-Permanent Color21 Lightener22 Bond Rebuilder23 Best Practices2

Our Company:Since the launch of our signature Smoothing Therapy in 2007, Keratin Complex hasbecome the market leader in the smoothing category and has revolutionized the colorindustry with Keratin Complex Color, a complete keratin-enhanced hair color line. Wecontinue to develop breakthroughs in keratin technology with the expansion of ourprofessional and retail collections, along with new programs and services that buildbrand partnerships, enhance stylists’ knowledge and skills, and boost salon business.Our Mission:We strive for product innovation, educational support and superior results toenhance the craft of cosmetology for the benefit of the salon industry, salonprofessionals and consumers.Our Principles: Offer breakthrough technology for superior results Enhance cosmetologist skills Develop new services that create value and enhance salon business Create an inspirational partnership with salon professionals Assist in elevating the unique culture and business atmosphere of the beauty industry3

Keratin Complex Color Story From the innovators of the smoothing industry comes Keratin Complex Color, a revolutionarykeratin-enhanced hair color line. Powered by our Advanced Keratin technology, Ceramides andBotanicalPowerblend , our proprietary formula synergistically restores, strengthens and improvesthe overall integrity of the hair while delivering exceptional gray coverage, long-lasting vibrantreds and superior high-lift blondes. The collection includes KeraLuminous Permanent Color,KeraBrilliance Demi-Permanent Color, and GraffitGlam Semi-Permanent Color.KeraLuminousTMPermanent ColorKeraLuminous Permanent Color is 100% oxidative color that delivers rich,vibrant and precise results.Why we love it: Improves the overall integrity of the hair while delivering exceptional graycoverage, long-lasting radiant reds and superior high-lift blondes Unique technology features a combination of Advanced Keratin andCeramides that help reduce porosity for long-lasting, even color andincreased strength Intense Neutral Series provides exceptional gray coverage and longevity Ultra-nourishing cream formula BotanicalPowerblend creates a touchable, softer, smoother, shinier andmore youthful-looking hair Fully intermixable shades create an infinite array of vibrant color results4

KeraBrilliance Demi-Permanent ColorKeraBrilliance Demi-Permanent Color delivers maximum shine andlimitless color possibilities, creating brilliant, reflective results.Why we love it: Advanced Keratin technology and Ceramides create a superior endresult by:- enhancing the tone- controlling unwanted tones- balancing color from base to ends Rich conditioning cream BotanicalPowerblend , ammonia-free formula helps restore strengthto damaged hair Concentrated Micronized Pigments provide up to 100% gray blending Unique blend increases moisture retention, creating a touchable, soft,silky texture Intermixable brilliant shades for endless color possibilitiesGraffitiGlamTMSemi-Permanent Color(n.) Glamorous, beautiful hair color inspired by graffiti — a vibrant artform we admire.Why we love it: Dynamic collection of 10 vibrant semi-permanent shades Clear isdesigned to inspire every colorist to unleash his/her wwcreativity andmake a color statement Our Advanced Keratin and Ceramides help even out color to creatbold, expressive color or soft pastel shades with Clear 10 shades Clear available in a convenient pre-packed kit5

How does Keratin Complex Color work? PROBLEM: Damaged Hairchlorine & salt waterat-home hair colordrugstore shampoosunage6Over time, keratin is depleted from the hairdue to a variety of environmental factorsand daily stressors.heat styling

SOLUTION: 3 Simultaneous Step TechnologyStep 1Step 2Once the formula is applied, ourproprietary Advanced Keratin andCeramide blend fills uneven surfacesin the cuticle and structurally reinforces the Cell Membrane Complex,thereby, strengthening and protecting damaged hair. This unique blendcreates a shield that protects the cuticle while reducing UV damage andpreventing signs of hair aging.As the overall integrity of the hair isimproved by the Advanced Keratinand Ceramide blend, the Concentrated Micronized Pigments drivedeep into the cortex and link firmlytogether. The color molecules areevenly dispersed throughout thehair shaft to ensure maximum colorpenetration and saturation.BotanicalPowerblend continuesto help restore health to the hairwith its nourishing, conditioning andmoisturizing properties.The result is smooth, healthy-looking hair that has beautiful shine.Step 3Advanced KeratinBotanicalPowerblendCeramideConcentrated Micronizedpigments7

Hair StructureTo achieve a successful hair coloring service, you need toconsider the technique, the type of hair coloring productsbeing used and the integrity of the hair itself.ComponentsCUTICLEOutermost protective layer, consists of 6 to 8 translucentoverlapping scale-like layers that surround the hairs.Hair StructureCORTEXCortical center gives the hair its strength, elasticity, flexibilityand colorMedullaCotexCELL MEMBRANE COMPLEX (CMC)The “glue” that binds hair components together. It is thepathway for micro-pigments (hair dyes) traveling into the hair.MEDULLAInnermost LayerCuticle8

CharacteristicsTEXTUREDiameter of individual hair strandsFine: Fine hair is more receptive to lightening or depositing hair colorMedium: Medium/average hair is the ideal hair type when lightening ordepositing hair color since it is used as a basis for color manufacturersCoarse: Coarse hair is less receptive during lightening or depositing haircolor due to a larger cortex ratioHair Strand DiameterFineMediumCoarsePOROSITYThe ability of the hair to absorb water or other liquids. The higher the porosity,the easier and faster it will absorb, but the less capable of retaining the absorption.Hair PorosityLow PorosityHigh PorosityDENSITYDensity is determined by the amount of hair per square inch.Hair color can be influenced by density because it affects the waylight is reflected or absorbed.Hair ckThickThickThick9

Hair ColorTypes of PigmentNATURAL PIGMENTNatural pigment refers to naturally occurring color, called melanin. These pigments are the primaryfactor in determining natural hair color.The distribution of melanin throughout the hair creates the entire spectrum of hair color — fromblack to blonde — and every variation of tone — from cool to warm.Red, yellow and blue are made up of two distinct types of melanin that appear and behave verydifferently from one another.MELANINEumelanin (brown-black)Provides natural color ranging from black to dark brown.Provides natural color ranging from red and ginger toyellow and blondeMelaninPheomelanin (red-yellow)Both types of melanin are present in all hair, but atdifferent levels. The more eumelanin, the darker the haircolor, and the larger the eumelanin molecules. If lesseumelanin is present, the hair is lighter and theeumelanin molecules are smaller. The amount of totalpigment dictates how light or dark the hair AL PIGMENTSArtificial pigments are designed to mimic the appearance and composition of natural hair color thatfall into two different categories: Direct and Oxidative irect: Pigments are pre-developed or staining pigments that deposit visible color on contact. DirectDpigments deposit on and in between cuticle layers.Oxidative: Pigments react with oxidizing agents (hydrogen peroxide), combining together at up to300 times their normal size as they couple with oxidized natural melanin to form a new color.10

Categories of Hair ColorPermanent hair colorPERMANENT Contains oxidative dye loads Provides 100% gray coverage Permanently lightens, darkens or provides a tonal change to the hair Mix with 10 volume, 20 volume, 30 volume or 40 volume developer Provides permanent resultsDEMI–PERMANENTDemi-permanent hair color Contains no ammonia D eposits color pigment onto and into the hair cuticle Provides tonal change, or darkens hair Mixed with 6 volume activator Lasts 4-6 weeksSEMI-PERMANENT Contains no ammonia No lift deposits, only hair color Provides tone-on-tone coloring Contains direct pigments Not mixed with a developer Lasts 4-6 shampoosSemi-permanent hair colorColor Wheel/Color DefinedPRIMARY COLORSRed, yellow and blue are the building blocks of all color. Primary colors are pure and cannotbe created by mixing other colors together. Combinations of primaries create all other colors.SECONDARY COLORSSecondary colors are made by mixing two primary colors together. Yellow Red Orange Red Blue Violet Blue Yellow GreenYellow OrangeTERTIARY COLORSIntermediate color achieved by mixing asecondary color and its neighboring primarycolor on the color wheel in equal amounts.Color WheelYellowOrangeYellow GreenGreenRed Orange Yellow Orange Yellow-Orange Blue Violet Blue-Violet Red Orange Red-OrangeThe Color Wheel is an essential tool for stylists whenmanipulating hair color, which is formulated from acombination of primary, secondary and tertiary colors.Blue GreenRedRed VioletBlueVioletBlue Violet11

The Law of ColorThe “Law of Color” states that two opposite colors on the color wheel will counteract each other when putside by side, and neutralize each other when mixed together.NATURAL COLORSEach natural hair color level contains a certain amount of red, yellow and blue pigments. Identifyingthe natural level is important for color formulations, as the natural hair color and artificial pigmentboth determine the final result. The greater the concentration of blue, red and yellow, the darker thehair color will be. Less concentration of blue, red and yellow, the lighter the hair will be.COMPLEMENTARY COLORS Light Blue, Red, Yellow Mid Blue, Red, Yellow Dark Blue, Red, YellowThere are only two ways to describe color:LEVEL/DEPTHLevels are categorized from 1 to 10 to coincide with natural levels. The lower the number,the darker the hair. Example: Level 1 is the darkest (black) and Level 10 is thelightest (ultra-light blonde). These correspond to theKeratin Complex Neutral (N) Series.Neutral Series swatches should be used to identify thenatural and/or starting level. Identifying the natural levelis important for color formulation, as the natural hair colorand the artificial pigment both determine the final result.Color Levels10.0/10N – Ultra-Light Blonde9.0/9N – Lightest Blonde8.0/8N – Light Blonde7.0/7N – Medium Blonde6.0/6N – Dark Blonde5.0/5N – Light Brown4.0/4N – Medium Brown3.0/3N – Dark Brown2.0/2N – Darkest Brown.121.0/1N – Black

TONE/HUE — CHARACTERISTICS OF COLORTone (also referred to as “hue”) refers to the underlying color of the hair. Tones are categorized aswarm, neutral or cool, and are usually part of the shade description. Example: Keratin Complex has a Level 8 Blonde family; a Level 8.3/8G Golden Blonde, a Level8.4/8C Coppery Blonde and a Level 8.1/8A Ash Blonde. The gold, copper and ash give the lightblonde its own characteristic of color.Tone/Hue Example8.03/8NG8.00/8NN8.1/8ALEVEL SYSTEM & SHADE IDENTIFIERThe level and tone identifiers represent the relationship between the natural level and tone.Example:8.43/8CG8 describes the level of the color4 describes the primary tone of the color3 describes the secondary tone of the colorCG Copper GoldThe tone is the shade (characteristic or hue) of the color. The Keratin Complex color system utilizesboth single- and double-tone shades. The secondary tone can either emphasize or modify theprimary tone. Example: An 8.43 is Level 8. The primary tone (.4/Copper) is warm, as is the secondary tone(.3/Gold). Therefore, the secondary tone emphasizes the warmth of the shade. Example: 7.32/7GV is Level 7. The primary tone (.3/Gold) is warm and the secondary tone(.2/Violet) is cool. Therefore, the secondary tone modifies the warmth of the shade.Level & Tone Identifier ChartUse the chart here to identifythe specific number and letterrepresentation for each tone.The shade names and basetones are also included.NUMBERLETTERSHADE NAMEBASE.0NNEUTRALRED, BLUE, PERORANGE.5MMAHOGANYRED VIOLET.6RAUBURNRED.7GNMATTEGREEN13

Developers/LightenerKeratin Complex Keratin-Enhanced Developers are infused with Hydrolyzed Keratin, Silk Amino Acidsand Hydrolyzed Collagen.Hydrolyzed Keratin: Helps protect the hair and gives it strength as it fills porositySilk Amino Acids: Aids in moisture retention and restores moisture balanceHydrolyzed Collagen: Enhances softness and shineThis specific blend of ingredients works synergistically with the Keratin Complex Color line. Thesechemicals make up the remainder of the ingredients to function properly with conditioning agents.Keratin Complex Activator works in tandem with KeraBrillance Demi-Permanent Color.The 10, 20, 30 and 40 Volume Developers work with KeraLuminous Permanent Color.Philosophy of DevelopersThe higher the volume of the developer, the more oxygen is present. Therefore, more levels of lift areachievable. The lower the volume of the developer, there is less lift during the chemical action.Usage GuidelinesACTIVATORRecommended for depositing, toning and corrective colorwhen used with KeraBrilliance Demi-Permanent Color.10 VOLUMERecommended for up to 1 level of lift, depositing,toning and gray coverage on fine hair when used withKeraLuminous Permanent Color.20 VOLUMERecommended for up to 2 levels of lift, for optimal graycoverage when used with KeraL

04 Keratin Complex Color Story 06 How does Keratin Complex Color work? 08 Hair Structure 10 Hair Color 12 The Law of Color 14 Developers/Llightener 15 Decolorizing Process 16 Gray Coverage/Formulations 17 Permanent Color 20 Demi–Permanent Color 20 Semi-Permanent Color 21 Lightener 22 Bond Rebuilder 23 Best Practices. 3 Our Company: Since the launch of our signature Smoothing Therapy