WIXLIB

Quest for the BestTastings, testing, trends – choosing whichAustralian wines to serve on a Qantas flightrequires intensive research.Arguably Australia’s most visible ambassador internationally,Qantas has long been in a unique position to spread the goodword on the world-class quality of Australian wine. When LenEvans first began consulting to Qantas more than 40 years ago, themention of Australian wine overseas would be met with ignoranceor downright derision. The Monty Python team could elicit cheaplaughs with a sketch describing a tipple called “Perth Pink” as “nota wine for drinking a wine for laying down and avoiding”.Since then, the Australian wine industry has boomed and theworld has discovered the exceptional variety and quality that itsmany wine regions can produce. As the industry has evolved, so toohas the way Qantas seeks to represent Australian wine to its customers. “Our wine program is now made up of a rich tapestry of winesand is more closely aligned with the offering of Australia’s finestwine lists,” says Qantas Wine Program manager Peter Nixon.Offering a wide selection of styles, grape varieties and regions,the Qantas Wine Program features approximately 400 wines ayear. It has been uniquely designed so that generally no two flightswill carry exactly the same selection of wines.In order to offer customers the very best drops available,Qantas selects wine for inflight service using a formal submissionprocess in addition to a more informal and ongoing assessment ofthe Australian wine scene. The formal submission process is used toform the core list for the Qantas Wine Program.Together with Peter Nixon, the Wine Panel (see page 8) reviewsits list of approved wineries annually, based on a number of criteria. Recognition and reputation both in the wine industry and the10gourmet tr av eller wine

wine selectionbroader market are important considerations. The panel alsolooks to producers who have a proven ability to deliver definitiveexamples of classic regional wine styles.The process begins with select wineries being invited to submitwines for assessment at the Qantas Wine Panel’s quarterly meetings.The panel members then evaluate and score these wines accordingto the established show system – the wines being grouped by varietyand their identities masked. Each wine faces scrutiny from a uniquedual perspective: not only do the panel members rank amongAustralia’s most respected winemakers, they’re also judges on thenotoriously tough Australian wine show circuit. This means thatas well as having the ability to easily pinpoint a wine’s technicalstrengths and weaknesses, they also have the experience to quicklybenchmark it against its peers.Combining these elements with an understanding of how winetastes at 30,000 feet, the panel whittles down the thousands of submissions to the 400 or so wines that make up the program’s annualcore list. Logistics previously restricted airline wine buyers to purchasing large bulk lots, but Qantas now has informal processes inplace to buy small parcels from boutique producers. The result isthat the inflight wine list changes more frequently, and passengerscan enjoy the kinds of high-demand, limited-availability wine thatone might find in the best restaurants.Sourcing and securing these vinous treasures is Nixon’s job – inmany ways, he acts like the sommelier in a top-class restaurant.Nixon is involved heavily in the wine industry, reading widely,attending regular tastings, meeting with winemakers and activelymonitoring the prevailing trends in Australian wine. It’s Nixon whoensures that the Qantas Wine Program offers a balance of benchmarkwines and emerging superstars.Whether it’s an iconic Barossa shiraz or a single-vineyard pinotnoir from the Mornington Peninsula, Qantas is continuing to worktowards providing customers with the best of Australian wine. vphotography by ben dearnley.International AcclaimIn 2005, Qantas became the first airline to be awardedboth Best First Class and Business Class Wine Lists atthe Cellars in the Sky competition – a prestigiousinternational event run in conjunction with theInternational Wine Challenge in London. Qantas also tookout prizes that year for Most Innovative First Class WineList and Best First Class Red – the stellar 2001 BalnavesThe Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, which was made(fittingly) by the 2005 Qantas/Gourmet Traveller WINEWinemaker of the Year, Pete Bissell.In 2006, Qantas won again, this timefor Best Business Class Sparkling(the 2001 Charles Heidsieck Misen Cave, see page 16) and MostOriginal First Class Wine List.gourmet tr av eller wine11

austr alian regionsRed, Whiteand True BlueAustralia’s range of wine stylesis as broad as the country itself.Australia is a vast island continent, and for many years writerswith a lack of understanding have referred to it as a wide,brown land. Wide it may be, and in parts barren and brown, butanyone with a taste for wine knows that in many regions redand white are the colours that count. Each of the country’s majorwine regions delivers a distinctive, well-defined take on the world’sgreat grape varieties. In all, there are 56 registered wine regions(Geographical Indications), with more waiting in the wings.South AustraliaSilesian migrants planted their vines in the Barossa Valley, northof Adelaide, more than 150 years ago. Since then, South Australiahas been the heart of the country’s wine industry. The region’sshiraz is justly famous, whether as a single varietal or blendedwith grenache or mourvèdre to create supple and silky Rhônestyle reds. Higher in the Barossa Ranges, the cooler Eden Valleyproduces exceptional riesling and shiraz.A further hour north from the Barossa is the Clare Valley, wherewinemaking was introduced by Jesuit priests in the 1850s. Clarerieslings are considered the benchmark for the uniquely Australian,dry, citrus-scented style, while several venerable old vineyards dottedthroughout the valley produce exceptional, long-lived shiraz.The suburban sprawl of Adelaide is contained on its southernand eastern fringes by grape-growing areas of great note. Nestled inthe Mount Lofty Ranges that rise to 600 metres, the Adelaide Hillsis rapidly emerging as the home of Australia’s best sauvignon blanc,and starting to fulfil its promise as a producer of outstanding pinotnoir and chardonnay while putting a radical spin on shiraz.To the south of the city lies McLaren Vale, where lush vineyardsmeet the sea and rich, opulent reds rule the roost. Shiraz andgrenache have long been staples, but Spanish and Italian varietiesalso show promise. Coonawarra, meanwhile, is nestled in the state’ssouth-eastern corner and is famous for two things: its russet coloured terra rossa soil that runs in a narrow strip through the regionand its stylishly structured cabernet sauvignon.12gourmet tr av eller wine

Terroir australisIn under a decade, Australia’swineries have more than doubledto number over 2200, with winemade in every state and territory.New South WalesLocated 150km north of Sydney, the Hunter Valley is another historicheartland of Australian wine. Its long-lived semillon is arguably Australia’s most unique white wine style, while its earthy shiraz is anintriguing counterpoint to bolder examples from elsewhere.VictoriaPHOTOGRAPHY by richardhumphrys.com.au.It may be one of the smallest states in size, but Victoria has hugevinous diversity. In the Yarra Valley, Macedon Ranges and Mornington Peninsula chardonnay and pinot noir reign, while slightlywarmer inland areas like Heathcote, Beechworth and Great Westernproduce exceptional shiraz. And no discussion of Australian wine iscomplete without mentioning the muscats and tokays of Rutherglen.Western AustraliaWest Australian wine has risen to prominence over the past 30 years,thanks to statuesque cabernet sauvignon from Margaret River. Someof the world’s most remote vineyards, tucked away in the state’ssouth-eastern corner in regions like Great Southern and Pemberton,are turning out exotically spiced shiraz and pristine riesling.Rising StarsAustralia’s island state, Tasmania, is increasingly recognised as thesource of the country’s best sparkling wines, and even in sun-drenchedQueensland suitable sites have been identified. In both states, hardwork in the winery is going into creating great wines of the future. vgourmet tr av eller wine13

on the gr apev inewine newsWhether it’s a classic Australian style, a tasteof the future, or even a pink or “green” wine,there’s lots to enjoy on a Qantas flight.RESPONSIBLE DRINKINGJasper Hill winemaker Ron Laughton succinctly sums up theinterest in more sustainable winemaking methods: “We make ourliving from the soil, and we must strive to keep our soil living.”Biodynamism is agriculture in tune with the natural rhythms of theenvironment. Qantas Panel member and West Australian winemakerVanya Cullen has been a pioneer of biodynamic viticulture, as haveproducers such as Jasper Hill, Castagna, and Carlei in Victoria.Carbon-neutral wine production is achieved by offsettingcarbon emissions by planting trees. Cullen was the first wineryin Australia to do this, with the Barossa’s Elderton Wines recentlyfollowing suit – proving great wine can be red, white and green.For some years, Australian wine writershave been extolling the virtues of roséwines as the ideal libation for thecountry’s warm months. Now, it seems,the message has at last got through:it’s time for rosé to really take off.The very virtues that make roséso good on the ground – vibrancy,freshness, aromatic lift – are even morevaluable in the air. Altitude can be ahard marker when it comes to wine,flattening flavour and dulling aromas.But well-made rosé takes to the skyeasily, its lively personality able tocope with cabin pressure.Outstanding examples from some of Australia’s finestexponents – including Yering Station, Turkey Flat, Charles Meltonand Juniper Crossing – have proven hugely successful. Look outfor them inflight and allow your tastebuds to be tickled pink.14gourmet tr av eller winePHOTOGRAPHY by richardhumphrys.com.au and bs.PINK FIT

EXPANDING TASTESWhile varieties such as chardonnay and shiraz show no signsof falling from the top of the popularity perch, there’s a growingcuriosity in Australia for the less well-known offerings from thevine. Travellers with Qantas can now take their tastebuds on newjourneys with great Australian examples of classic Italian varieties,including the Castagna La Chiave (sangiovese) and the CentennialVineyards Rondinella Corvina. For a sensual Spanish varietyimbued with an Australian sense of style, look out for thePondalowie MT Unwooded Tempranillo.spreading the joy That glass of wineyou’re enjoying is just one of billions tohave left Australian shores in the past year.Australia’s wine exports for the 12 monthsto the end of January 2007 reached arecord 768 million litres. Australia’s biggestexport markets in value terms are the UK(A 943 million), US (A 927 million),Canada (A 242 million), New Zealand(A 93 million) and Germany (A 71million), with significant growth comingfrom China (exports leaping from3 million to 24 million litres).REGIONALCLASSICSThe ability to producebenchmark examplesof classic varietal andregional synergy iswhat has madeAustralia’s HunterValley (semillon),Coonawarra(cabernet) and ClareValley (riesling), toname a few, so special. Purists should look out forsignature styles like McWilliam’s Mount PleasantLovedale Semillon, Taylors St Andrews Riesling andthe winner of Best First Class Red at the 2005 Cellarsin the Sky awards, 2001 Balnaves The Tally ReserveCabernet Sauvignon, made by Pete Bissell (above).gourmet tr av eller wine15

on the gr apev ineHEIDSIECK’S MISIS A QANTAS HITCharles Heidsieck is one of the finesthouses in Champagne, and its 2001Mis en Cave is an exemplary wine. Soit’s not surprising that by choosing toserve a Champagne of such complexityand balance to its customers, Qantaspicked up the gong for Best BusinessClass Sparkling of the Year at the2006 Cellars in the Sky awards recentlyheld in London (see page 11).Request a gooddrop and toastGourmetTraveller WINEas it celebratesits 10th birthday.Regarded asAustralia’sleading winepublication, itwas named Best Drink Magazine at thebiannual World Food Media Awards in2003 and 2005. For further information orto subscribe, go to www.magshop.com.au.16gourmet tr av eller winePHOTOGRAPHY by bs.Wines to winWine Ark is giving away twodozen bottles of wine fromthe pages of this guideevery month from Mayto September 2007. Go towww.wine-ark.com.au/qantasfor details. Wine Ark: Yourpassport to Australia’s bestwines. You must be over 18years of age to enter.

WinetastingNotesTop AustralianWines from theQantas cellarThe following pages showcase some of thebest and most exciting examples of Australianwine. Use these notes as a reference to thewines served on your flight.the notesPeter BournePHOTOGRAPHY BY Amanda McLauchlan.Wine writer and educator PeterBourne, who has written thesetasting notes, is widely acknowledged as an independent andcredible commentator. A regularcontributor to Gourmet TravellerWINE magazine, he has yearsof experience as a national andinternational wine show judge.keyNSW New South WalesQld QueenslandSA South AustraliaTas TasmaniaVic VictoriaWA Western AustraliaFor a quick reference to wines served in Qantas First and Business,see “Index to Wines Served Onboard”, page 48.gourmet tr av eller wine17

TastingsWHITE WINESClonakilla Viognier– Canberra District, NSWMany Australian viogniers are tooover-the-top and unbalanced. Butthis savoury dry white has all thevarietal descriptors – honeysuckle,musk, apricot. Alcohol is restrainedby a seam of mineral acidity withina framework of classy French oak.Coldstream Hills Chardonnay– Yarra Valley, VicThis has to be one of the mostreliable chardonnays in the country.Aromas of nectarine, honeydewmelon and guava are intertwinedwith nougat, grilled nuts and crèmecaramel. The rich yet refined palatehas a peaches and cream complexityand a fine tail of zesty acidity.Crawford River Reserve Riesling– Henty, VicMany riesling aficionados claim theThomsons of Crawford River makeAustralia’s best. Their 2005 Reserveespecially supports such an assertion,with its clean, precise bouquet of wetslate, citrus and lemon sorbet. Thepalate is tight with lime and mineralcharacters and awesome acidity.Crawford River Riesling– Henty, VicArguably Australia’s most distinctiveriesling. The bouquet is a complexamalgam of mineral, almost earthy,characters with subtle lemon zestand pink grapefruit. The mouth fillswith the same flavours, restrainedby a wiry filament of mineralacidity. Has cellaring potential.Cullen Sauvignon BlancSemillon – Margaret River, WASourced from the Cullenbiodynamic vineyards, thesauvignon component of thiswine undergoes partial barrelfermentation to subdue its herbalnotes and add additional depth.Its vitality and freshness will see itbuild in flavour and complexity.gourmet tr av eller wine19

TastingsCurly Flat Chardonnay– Macedon Ranges, VicPhillip Moraghan is one of the mostexciting new winemakers, dedicatedto making high-quality wines in theEuropean mould. This has flavoursof pink grapefruit, nectarine andcustard apple overlaid with nougat,toast and preserved lemon. Thepalate is rich and complex.Diamond Valley Chardonnay– Yarra Valley, VicThis chardonnay shimmers inthe glass with an enticing bouquetof white nectarine, ripe fig andnougat. The palate is equallyvibrant: sweet, juicy flavours sitparallel with the nose, while thefine acid finish dances lightly onthe tongue. Delicious stuff.Fire Gully Chardonnay– Margaret River, WAFire Gully is made by chardonnaywunderkind Mike Peterkin, bestknown for his prestigious Pierrobrand. This wine has peach andhoneydew melon fruit, a richand mouth-filling palate withlots of tropical fruit and a mix ofbutterscotch and grilled almonds.Gembrook Hill Sauvignon Blanc– Yarra Valley, VicPartial barrel fermentation andextended yeast lees contact addslayers of depth and complexity,moving the style towards a winemore akin to a Sancerre. Mineralalmost to earthiness, its nucleus oflemony acidity keeps it fresh andbright as it develops in the bottle.Giaconda Aeolia Roussanne– Beechworth, VicRoussanne is a minor player in itsRhône Valley homeland and equallyobscure here. But in the hands ofRick Kinzbrunner it becomes a rich,multi-layered, savoury dry white.Exotic spices, pear, honeydewmelon and fresh herbs interminglewith nougat and hazelnut.20gourmet tr av eller wine

Giaconda Chardonnay– Beechworth, VicRick Kinzbrunner uses the wholeBurgundian handbook to producethis multi-layered, ultra-complexgem with rich, almost tropical fruitcharacters – guava, rockmelon andfig. It’s biscuity, buttery and showsgrilled almonds. Best decanted forat least an hour before service.Giant Steps Vineyard SextonBernard Clones 95 96Chardonnay – Yarra Valley, VicPhil Sexton’s stellar chardonnay ismade from a complex selection ofchardonnay clones from Burgundy.Multi-layered, it shows lots of fig,melon and peach flavours enhancedwith buttery malolactic charactersand a background of smart oak.Grosset Piccadilly Adelaide HillsChardonnay – SAAdelaide Hills chardonnay showsall the intensity and refinement thatmakes the grape one of the world’sgreatest varieties. This has intensearomas of ripe fig, pink grapefruitand honeydew melon plus almondmeal and nougat. Harmony andbalance are the keys.Grosset Polish Hill Clare ValleyRiesling – SAJeffrey Grosset is Australia’s rieslingking. The fruit is sourced from themineral soils of the Polish HillRiver area. Sweet citrus fruitaromas interplay with subtle spices,while the ripe apricot and lemonsorbet flavours dance a duet withthe fresh mineral acidity.Grosset Rockwood VineyardRiesling – Clare Valley, SAThis riesling is made exclusively forQantas Business passengers. It hasall the hallmarks of a great Grosset,with aromas of fresh lime, apricotand ripe pear lifted by a floralperfume. Lemon-fresh and bright,it has a steely edge of acidity thatcarries the wine to a long finish.gourmet tr av eller wine21

TastingsGrosset Semillon SauvignonBlanc – Clare Valley/AdelaideHills, SAThis is a deliciously crisp andcrunchy, savoury dry white.Semillon provides the backbone,with exotic fruit flavours of guava,nectarine and lychee coming fromthe sauvignon. It has a slaty,mineral edge to the finish.Hardys Eileen HardyChardonnay – South-easternAustraliaThe fruit sourcing for Hardys’top chardonnay is multi-regional:Tasmania, Tumbarumba and theYarra Valley. It’s a potpourri ofgrapefruit, melon and nectarine,with hints of nuts and malt extractand a rich yet restrained palate.Heggies Reserve Riesling– Eden Valley, SAThe Heggies vineyard sits at 550m,one of the highest in the EdenValley, with the fruit for this reserverelease drawn from the first rieslingvines planted in 1975. It’s a classicEden Valley riesling, with abundantfresh floral aromas joined by hintsof dry toast and lime marmalade.Henschke Julius Riesling– Eden Valley, SAJulius is the Henschkes’ top rieslingfrom their Eden Valley home base.Aromas of freshly squeezed lemonjuice and peach interplay with a wetpebble minerality and a h

Wine expert and member of the Gourmet Traveller WINE tasting panel Peter Bourne provides tasting notes for 145 of the magnificent wines that make up just part of the award-winning Qantas cellar. The selection is carefully tailored to enhance the menu served on each leg of your journey, a