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QA&How you lengthen a skirtpattern depends on the styleQI’ve heard that most patterns are sized for a 5-foot,6-inch-tall body. I’m taller. What’s the best way toadd length to a skirt pattern?—J.R. Laurie, Portland, OregonAKaren Howland responds: Adding length to patterns and to ready-to-wear issomething with which I am familiar; I’m 6 feet 2 inches tall. At first thought, thesolution appears to be as simple as adding extra length to the bottom. However, if asilhouette tapers or flares, it’s not that simple.When you add significant length to a skirt by extending the side seams, a flared skirtcan end up with a hem that’s wider than your fabric; and a tapered skirt can end upwith a hem edge that is so narrow you can’t walk.The style of your skirt determines whether it’s best to add length at the lower edgeor at the lengthen/shorten lines printed (or added) on your pattern. When you spreada skirt in the middle of its length, you have to true the seams, which means straightening the jagged seamline that forms when the seamlines are broken between the pattern segments. There may be other fit considerations, as well, when spreading patternsegments. Here are general guidelines for lengthening skirts.Maria TaylorVP, Advertising SalesRick StrafaceAdvertising SalesDirectorClare LiberisCustom SolutionsManagerBrenden DelaneyAssociate AdvertisingSales ManagerAdvertising elaney@taunton.comTracey Lenahan203-304-3540tlenahan@taunton.comDiana MackeySenior AdvertisingMarketing andOperations ManagerKaren LutjenAssistant AdvertisingMarketing ManagerKandace DoyleMember AuditBureau of CirculationAdapted from the Threads Fitting Department, no. 117, by Karen Howland.T117 FG aLengthen straight styLes at the hemOn straight-cut skirt patterns, usually you can addthe desired extra length successfully at the hem.Extend the seams by continuing the line fromthe upper section, retaining the angle of theseams. If there is a slight flare, the lower edge willbe fuller than the original.Group PublisherDraw a new hemline and hemallowance at anequal distancefrom the originalhemline to establish the new length.Digital MarketingDirectorSara Ezrin LarsenSenior ConsumerMarketing ManagerMelissa RobinsonDirector, eCommerceMichael StoltzIndependent publishers since 1975Founders, Paul & Jan RomanCFOLengthen FLared and tapered garments above the hemLineGroup PublisherDon’t just add length to the hem edge of flared or tapered skirtsor youT117 FGb-1 could end upT117FG 4-a than your fabric or one that’s too narrow to walk in.with a hem that’swiderGroup PublisherT117 FG 4bSVP, Creative & EditorialSVP, OperationsFlared skirtAvoid adding length at thebottom of these styles.8SIP29 Fitting QA.indd 8To add lengthto a flared skirtpattern, producea better-fittingpattern, andretain the loweredge’s originaldimension, addlength at thelengthen/shortenlines printed on thepattern, as shown.VP, Single Copy SalesCut the patternpiece along thelengthen/shortenline.VP, Consumer MarketingVP, Advertising SalesTrue theseams.VP & ControllerVP, FinanceVP, Human ResourcesVP, FulfillmentSpread the patternpiece the amount ofthe added length.Timothy RahrRichard BrowningAnatole BurkinMaria TaylorSusan EdelmanThomas LuxederJay AnnisNancy HallbergRick StrafaceWayne ReynoldsKathy WorthCarol MarottiPatricia WilliamsonPublishers of magazines, books, videos, and onlineFine Woodworking Fine HomebuildingThreads Fine Gardening Fine Cookingwww.taunton.comIllustrations: Robin MazzolaPresidentTHREADS2/28/13 12:20 PM

SIP29 Fitting QA.indd 2/28/13 3:01 PM pg 9 - (BlacK)(Cyan)(Magenta)(Yellow)T117 FG b-2Tapered skirtIf you are using an unforgiving fabric or addingsignificant length to a tapered skirt, the followingdart adjustment will improve your results:1. Cut along the lengthen/shorten line and separatethe pattern the amount of the additional length.2. Lay a straightedge (ruler) from the widest pointon the upper pattern segment to the hem at theside seam, to indicate the new side seamline. Besure to keep the center front/back of both segmentsin alignment. Notice the dart shape between theside seam and the straightedge.3. Draw a line parallel to the center line from thewaist dart point down to the lower edge of theupper skirt pattern segment. Slash along this lineto 1 2 inch from the dart point, and spread the slashuntil the side seam meets the straightedge betweenthe hip and hem. The waist dart will close slightly.(This adjustment isn’t necessary on minimallytapered skirts.)4. Fill the void formed by cutting and spreadingwith new tissue paper, and tape it in place. 2 inch1Cut here.Dart shapeSpread the patternpiece the amount ofthe added length.DesignersIllustrations: Robin Mazzolawww.lintondirect.co.ukw w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o mFabric, Fashion,and Fabulosity.All in one neat package.www.gorgeousfabrics.comandCostumersLinton Tweeds design andweave fabric for the world'smost exclusive fashionhouses, buy yours onlineSpread thepattern pieceto fill the dart.True the seams.Sewing Pattern SoftwareThe world’s most innovativefabrics since 1912T117 FG b-3Adjusting the pattern piece on a tapered skirt changesthe dart and maintains the way the fabric drapes.SewingandCraftsEducatorsandStudentsFIND OUT MORE at wildginger.com888.929.9453Spring 20139

ThreadsMagazine.comTECH N IQU ES COMMU N ITY Expert Fitting Advice and More!Accurate measurements are a must forachieving a good fit.You can get themby measuring yourfavorite, well-fittingclothes. DownloadSusan Lazear’s printable measurementchart to learn how.PROJ ECTS SEWI NG N EWS CONTESTS & MOREBy following the detailed steps, you’ll have your own pattern in no time.MEASUREMENTS FROMMY FAVORITE CLOTHESEasePreferred ease for fitted clothesBust inch pinch X 4Hip inch pinch X 4 total totalPreferred ease for semifitted clothesBust inch pinch X 4Hip inch pinch X 4 total totalPreferred ease for loosely fit clothesBust inch pinch X 4Hip inch pinch X 4 total totalPreferred ease for nonfitted clothesBust inch pinch X 4Hip inch pinch X 4 total totalPreferred ease for clothesBust inch pinch X 4Hip inch pinch X 4 total totalPreferred ease for fitted sleeves:inch pinch X 2 totalPreferred ease for nonfitted sleeves:inch pinch X 2Measure the clothesyou like to wear themost.BOdY dIMENSIONSHead circumference**Chest circumferenceWaist circumferenceHip circumferenceBicepWristOther** For judging neck openings on pullover garmentsOnce you have proper body measurements, try your hand at pattern drafting.In this online video, Senior TechnicalEditor Judith Neukam demonstrates howto draft the front and back of a bodicepattern at lightning speed. Download theprintable article for detailed instructions.All New DVD!Smart Fitting withKenneth D. KingWith a Threads Insider Membership you getaccess to: 80-plus sewing tips and techniques videos Tablet editions and digital issues Our exclusive Threads Insider patterndatabase Exclusive downloads of our popular articles Special member discounts and more!Follow us on:10SIP29 WW.indd 10In this three-part DVD series, Threadscontributing editor, fitting expert, andcouturier Kenneth D. King shares hisunique fitting principles of net gain,net loss, and no net change. You’ll learnhow to apply these principles whenfitting the upper and lower torso. You’llalso learn how to evaluate the fit of theApply Kenneth’s unique fitting principlesto achieve a good fit.garment, pin-fit, make corrections on amuslin, and adjust patterns accordingly.With Kenneth’s simple approach, you’ll be able to fit bodices, sleeves, necklines, skirts, andtrousers without the guesswork. As a bonus, Threads Insiders have exclusive access to anin-depth interview and how-to videos with the renowned instructor. Visit TauntonStore.comto purchase your copy today!TMTwitter is a registered trademark of Twitter Inc.; Facebook is a registered trademark of Facebook;Pinterest logo was designed by Michael Deal and Juan Carlos Pagan. totalTHREADSThe Threads Annual Index can be found3/1/13 3:09 PM

Twitter is a registered trademark of Twitter Inc.; Facebook is a registered trademark of Facebook;Pinterest logo was designed by Michael Deal and Juan Carlos Pagan.SIP29 WW.indd 2/28/13 3:02 PM pg 11 - (BlacK)(Cyan)(Magenta)(Yellow)Most Versatile CRAFTER’S TOOL!50 Foot Rolls1/2”, 1”, 2”, 2-3/8”To contact us:ThreadsThe Taunton Press63 South Main StreetPO Box 5506Newtown, CT 06470-5506Tel: 203-426-8171Durable, Reusable, Versatile TapeGRIPS and HOLDSWithout Adhesive!Prevents Thread Unravelingwww.amazingtape.comRetail 323-727-1231 WholesaleSend an o submit an article proposal:Write to Threads at the address above orCall: 800-309-9262Fax: 203-426-3434Email: th@taunton.comTo subscribe or place an order:Visit www.threadsmagazine.com/tmorderor call: 800-888-82869am-9pm ET Mon-Fri9am-5pm ET SatTo find out about Threads products:Visit www.threadsmagazine.com/productsOur passion isFABRICFashion to Decorating, you will find it here!Woolens, Silks, Tencel, Velvet, Fine Cottons,Linens, Sustainable Organics, plus notionsand embellishments to personalizeyour projects, we’ve got it all.PORTLAND . 503-786-1234BEAVERTON . 503-646-3000www.millendstore.comsince 1918ACE SEWINGMACHINE INC.214 E. 8th St.Los Angeles, CA 90014 All kinds of sewing machines Sewing notions & thread Fashion Design Supplies Dress forms, rulers, tools Pattern & Marking paper Safety pins, hook & eyes Elastic, velcro, hanger tape Cutting room supplies213-622-8345Fax 213-622-0142www.Acesewing.comSO VINTAGE PATTERNSThe greatest selectionof true vintage sewingpatternsWorld Wide Shippingwww.sovintagepatterns.comFor beautiful antique linens,lace and interestingvintage items visitour sister shop:www.sovintagelinensnlace.comTo get help with online member services:Visit www.threadsmagazine.com/customerserviceTo find answers to frequently asked questions:Visit www.threadsmagazine.com/FAQsTo contact Threads customer service:Email us at support@customerservice.taunton.comTo speak directly to a customer service professional:Call 800-477-8727 9am-5pm ET Mon-FriTo sell Threads in your store:Call us toll-free at 866-452-5179, oremail us at tradecs@taunton.comTo advertise in Threads:Call 800-309-0383, oremail us at thads@taunton.comMailing list:We make a portion of our mailing list availableto reputable firms. If you would prefer thatwe not include your name, please visit:www.threadsmagazine.com/privacyor call: 800-477-8727 9am-5pm ET Mon-FriFor employment information:Visit careers.taunton.comThe Taunton guarantee:If at any time you’re not completely satisfied withThreads, you can cancel your subscription andreceive a full and immediate refund of the entiresubscription price. No questions asked.Copyright 2013 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Noreproduction without permission of The TauntonPress, Inc.Spring 201311

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GOODMEASURES Measure It Right p. 14 Measuring & MarkingNotions p. 20 Does Your Pattern Fit? p. 26 Fit for Everyone p. 31w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o mSIP29 Openers Ready.indd 13SPRING 2013132/28/13 2:41 PM

Measure It RightPrecise and accurate measurements yield a better-fitting garmentBY BARBARA EMODIThe key to perfecting any pattern, computer-generated orhand-drafted, lies in gatheringspecific information about the body tobe fitted. Although pattern design is anart, taking measurements is a science.Fortunately, the process is systematic and logical, and with time and apatient measuring partner, you canbe confident in the accuracy of yourmeasurements.By following the detailed steps in thisarticle, you will obtain a set of measurements to use for fine-tuning thefit of commercial patterns or creatinghand-drafted designs. And if you areworking with pattern-drafting software,you’ll be able to adapt my methodsas you follow brand-specific instructions. Accurate measurements also canhelp you compare the correspondingsections of your favorite garments todiscover and understand the amount ofwearing ease you prefer.P R E PA R ATI O N I S EV ERY TH I N GThe prerequisites for accurate measuring are deciding the appropriategarments to wear while being measuredand marking key reference points onthe body.What to wearBody shape, and subsequently fit, canbe greatly affected by the undergarments worn when measurements aretaken—bras in particular. To ensure anaccurate fit, wear the undergarmentsyou normally do. Be prepared to markon them, if necessary, for recording14Mark reference pointsMark the body so you’ll have consistentreference points while you measure.(The solid lines on our leotard areextrabold for photography purposes.)ANECKLINEIdentify the natural neckline with ashort chain necklace that settles comfortably, just below the slight hollowat the base of the neck.Mark the exact center front of thisneckline with an adhesive or pen dot.Mark the prominent vertebra at thetop of the spine with an adhesive orpen dot. Bend the head forward tomake the vertebra easier to find.Mark a point on each side of theneck, in line with the hollow justbehind the earlobe.BBUST POINTCSHOULDER POINTACFJBEGHMark the nipple location with a crossof two pins on the bra fabric or with anadhesive dot.Feel for the end of the flat bone at the end ofthe shoulder, or raise your arm until a dimpleappears at the end of your shoulder and feelfor the shoulder bone in this depression. It isimportant to identify an exact shoulder point.Mark it with an adhesive or pen dot.DSHOULDER SEAMLINEDraw a series of dots (more accurate than adrawn line) on the body, from the side-neckpoint marked on the neckline, along the top ofthe shoulder, to the shoulder point.THREADSSIP29 EM1 TakeMeasurements.indd 142/28/13 2:44 PM

tEWAISTLINEDepending upon body proportions, there aretwo possible waistlines: a natural waist or, forpeople who do not have a naturally indentedwaist, a de facto (chosen) waist, where the topof skirts or trousers sits. Find the naturalwaist by tying a piece of elastic aroundthe person’s waist, and having herbend from side to side untilthe elastic settlescomfortably in thehollow aroundthe middle ofher body; takethe waistmeasurementhere. If theperson does not have an indented waist,adjust the elastic on her body to sit at thede facto waist. This often entails movingthe elastic above or below the natural waist,sometimes to be higher at the back and lowerat the front.Once established, mark the waistline on thebody with a pen; the elastic can shift whilemeasuring.FARMHOLEMark with a dotted line. Start from theshoulder point, down into the crease formedby the body joining the arm, on both the frontand back. If locating the armhole is difficult,duplicate one from a form-fitting T-shirt,slipping one hand under the sleeve to trace theseamline onto the body.GABDOMENMark a line parallel to the floor across thefullest part of the abdomen.w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o mSIP29 EM1 TakeMeasurements.indd 15DAFEGHHHIPSISIDE SEAMSJCENTER FRONT AND CENTER BACKFind the widest part of the lower body by wrapping ameasuring tape around the hip area and sliding it downthe body, note that the widest part may be anywhere froma few inches to more than 12 inches below the waist.Where the measurement is largest, mark a line exactlyparallel to the floor all around the body.Draw a series of dots perpendicular to the floor from theunderarm to the ankle on both sides of the body.Draw a series of dots perpendicular to the floor from thehollow of the neck to the waist. Repeat from the nape ofthe neck.CHECK THE POINTS OF INTERSECTIONIBe sure all horizontal markings clearly intersect all verticalmarkings so you’ll be able to identify the exact center front,center back, and side seams. Note: The center front of yourwaistline may not be in line with your navel.MARKING AND MEASURING TOOLS 1 4-inch adhesive dots 12-inch ruler Flexible but stable measuring tape Narrow elastic—to locate andmark the waistline Pins Short, fine chain necklace—toestablish a natural neckline Washable markers—to draw lineson skin and/or undergarmentsOptional: Form-fittingT-shirt withset-in sleeves—to help identifyan armhole Twill tape/cottoncording—formarking crotchlengthSPRING 2013152/28/13 2:44 PM

reference points. We photographed ourmodel in a leotard, but you’ll get moreaccurate measurements if you wearonly your best-fitting undergarments.Gather your toolsThe most important aid in the measurement process is a good-natured,discreet measuring buddy becausethere is no way to take accurate measurements of yourself.A few tools are required to markthe reference points and measure thedistances. I’ve supplied a list of these in“Marking and measuring tools,” page 15.Where to measureAs you measure, refer to these photos of the author measuring our model. Whentaking circumference measurements, lay the tape snugly on or around the surface,making it neither tight nor loose.ArmsTi ps o n m eAs u r i n gMeasurements should be taken withthe subject standing with naturalposture. Arm measurements shouldbe taken with the arm relaxed andslightly bent at the elbow. Keep thetape smooth, level, and snug (not tight)when measuring around the body.Significant asymmetries are commonin a body. That’s why it is important tomeasure both sides of the body; if youfind discrepancies greater than 1/2 inch,adjust or draft the pattern with distinctright and left side pattern pieces.m eAsu r i n g — Th e f i rsTsTe p To A g o o d f iTTaking accurate measurements isn’tgoing to solve all your fitting problems.Fitting is a two-step process. The firststep involves a flat pattern that reflectsan individual’s body measurements,and a pattern is only as good as themeasurements on which it is based.Once the pattern is cut in fabric, expectto do some final fine-tuning. But a set ofaccurate measurements will get you offto a good start.Arm length (sometimes called over-arm): Keep the arm relaxed with a slight naturalbend at the elbow. Take this measurement in two steps, from the shoulder point tothe elbow, and then from the elbow to just below the wrist bone.Biceps/upper arm: Measure around thebiceps with the arm slightly bent andthe biceps relaxed.16Photos: Joseph KugielskyAdapted from “How to Take Measurements” in Threads, no. 106.Armhole depth: Slide a ruler horizontally,high up under the arm; with the tape,measure from the shoulder point tothe ruler.THREADSSIP29 EM1 TakeMeasurements.indd 162/28/13 2:44 PM

Photos: Joseph KugielskyShoulderSShoulder length: Measure from theside-neck point to the shoulder point.Shoulder-to-shoulder/front: Measurebetween the shoulder points in astraight line across the front.Shoulder-to-shoulder/back: Measurebetween the shoulder points in astraight line across the back.Back width: Measure between thearmholes (make sure the tape doesn’tget caught up in the shoulder blades).Front shoulder slope: Measure from theshoulder point to the waistline centerfront in a straight diagonal line, over thebust point.Back shoulder slope: Measure from theshoulder point to the waistlinecenter back.Neck to waist (not shown): Measure from the base of the neck to the waistline at the center front and center back.w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o mSIP29 EM1 TakeMeasurements.indd 17Spring 2013172/28/13 2:44 PM

NeckNatural neckline: Holding the tape so itstands on edge, measure around the base ofthe neckline as defined by the necklace.Neck edge to bust point (also calledbust depth): Measure from theside-neck point to the bust point.Neck edge to waist: Measure from theside-neck point to the waistline in astraight line, over the bust point.BustWEB extraTo record yourmeasurementseasily, print outthe chart fromThreads.Magazine.com.Bust circumference: Measure the fullest partof the bust with the tape parallel to the floor.Upper bust: Measure the circumference abovethe bust, with the tape up against the armpit.Under bust: Measure the circumferenceunder the bust, holding the tape in linewith the bottom edge of the bra.Chest width: Measure above the bust fromarmhole to armhole, holding the tapeparallel to the floor.18THREADSSIP29 EM1 TakeMeasurements.indd 182/28/13 2:45 PM

CrotChWaist and hipsAll circumference measurementstaken below the waistline shouldbe accompanied by a depthmeasurement—the verticaldistance between the waist andthe specific measurement.Crotch depth: Have the person sit on a flatchair, and use a ruler to measure from themarked waistline to the chair seat. Keep theruler perpendicular to the seat.Crotch length/front and back: Measurefrom the waistline center front to thewaistline center back through thecrotch, holding the tape comfortablyclose to the body. Note the distancefrom the center front to the inseam(crotch front length) and subtract itfro

Choose the RIGHT PATTERN SIZE for YOU Sew the Best-Fitting Pants—EVER! How to FIT KEY AREAS—Shoulders, Arms, Back, Waist & More THE BEST OF Get a PERFECT FIT T