Montreal Travel Guide - American Automobile Association

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AAA Destination Guide: Official AAA maps,travel information and top picksAAA Destination Guide: Montréal includes trip-planning informationcovering AAA recommended attractions and restaurants, exclusivemember discounts, maps and more.Bienvenue. “Welcome” to Montréal. This vibrant city known for its joie devivre is a treat for the senses. Visually, Montréal is stunning. Set on anisland in the St. Lawrence River, the city is a photographer’s delight. Itsimposing modern skyline punctuated with skyscrapers confirms its statusas one of Canada’s leading contemporary, metropolitan areas. Incontrast, the narrow, 18th-century cobblestone streets of Old Montréal(Vieux-Montréal) recall the days of Ville Marie, the city’s originalsettlement.At the heart and summit of the city is Mont Royal, the mountain in themiddle of the island French explorer Jacques Cartier climbed and namedin 1535. The mountain is now part of Mont-Royal Park, an oasis ofgreenery designed by landscape architect Frederick Law Olmstead. Thesite is a favorite of Montréalers for a nature escape and impressive viewsof the city, river and countryside.Montréal is a pleasure to explore on foot; by horse-drawn carriage(calèche); or, sheltered from the elements (especially in winter),underground in a veritable subterranean city known as UndergroundMontréal, where buildings, shops, restaurants, theaters and métrostations are connected by more than 29 kilometres (18 mi.) ofpassageways.This cosmopolitan, sophisticated city is distinctly European in nature andproud of its Gallic heritage. And although the melodious flow of theFrench language is heard throughout Montréal, as might be expected inthe second-largest French-speaking city in the world (though mostQuébecois also are fluent in English), a third of the population is nonFrench.EssentialsOrient yourself. The streets in Montréal are laid out in the traditional eastwest grid, in this case parallel to the St. Lawrence River. The river,though, takes an unfortunate northwest swing at Montréal, resulting in theeast-west streets actually running north-south.Stop and catch a whiff of the roses, as wellas the lilacs, that float on breezes duringspring and summer at the showcaseBotanical Garden of Montréal (Jardinbotanique de Montréal), said to be one of thecontinent’s finest.Try a smoked meat sandwich for a true taste of Montréal. Similar to apastrami or corned beef sandwich, Montréal smoked meat is beef that isrubbed with spices, then marinated and smoked, sliced thin, piledbetween two slices of rye bread and typically served with fries, coleslawand a pickle.Inspired by his enormous neo-Gothic masterpiece, the architect of theawe-inspiring Basilica of Notre-Dame (Basilique Notre-Dame) convertedto Catholicism in order to be buried beneath it. The interior of the church,built 1824-29, was handcarved in wood and is resplendent with gold leafand stained-glass windows.1

Destination Guide: MontréalEssentials MapEssentials Details - Get additional information on AAA.com- GEM Attraction offers a Great Experience for Members- Exclusive AAA member discounts available1. Botanical Garden of Montréal4101 rue Sherbrooke EMontreal, QC H1X 2B2Phone: (514) 872-14002. Basilica of Notre-Dame110 rue Notre-Dame OMontreal, QC H2Y 1T2Phone: (866) 842-29253. Old MontréalMontreal, QC H2Y 1C2Phone: (514) 842-94114. Mont-Royal Park1260 ch RemembranceMontreal, QC H3H 1A2Phone: (514) 843-82405. Pointe-à-Callière, MontréalMuseum of Archaeologyand History350 Place RoyaleMontreal, QC H2Y 3Y5Phone: (514) 872-91506. Montréal Biodôme4777 av Pierre-de-CoubertinMontreal, QC H1V 1B3Phone: (514) 868-30007. Olympic Park3200 rue ViauMontreal, QC H1V 3N7Phone: (514) 252-4737Clip-clop through the narrow, cobblestone streets of Old Montréal (VieuxMontréal) in a horse-drawn calèche (carriage), a tour that is akin to timetraveling to the early 18th century.Escape from the rush of the city to the serenity and greenness of MontRoyal Park (Parc du Mont-Royal), whose signature mountain wasclimbed in 1535 by Jacques Cartier, the French explorer who searched invain for a “northwest passage” from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean.Get maps and turn-by-turn directions using TripTik Travel Planner on AAA.comStand on the site that was Montréal’s birthplace at Pointe-à-Callière,Montréal Museum of Archaeology and History (Pointe-à-Callière, Muséed’archéologie et d’histoire de Montréal), where a multimedia presentationabout the city’s history is presented in a theater overlooking archeologicalruins.2

Destination Guide: MontréalVisit four ecosystems—a tropical rainforest, the marine environment ofthe St. Lawrence, a Laurentian forest and the frigid polar world—in oneday at the Montréal Biodôme (Biodôme de Montréal). The combinationzoo/aquarium/garden, part of Olympic Park (Parc Olympique), is in theformer velodrome from the 1976 Summer Games.hushed and ornately gilded—is in stark contrast to the bustle of busy rueNotre-Dame outside its massive doors. Opposite the basilica is the Placed’Armes, a square dedicated to the city’s founder. Here you’ll find a rowof horse-drawn carriages patiently waiting to board passengers for a tourof the historic district.Put on comfortable shoes before exploring the 29-kilometre (18-mi.)network of pedestrian walkways that constitutes Underground Montréal, asubterranean maze of shops, offices, theaters, restaurants and subwaystations designed to help residents cope with the city’s harsh winters.East on rue Notre-Dame is the Château Ramezay Museum (Musée duChâteau Ramezay), built as the residence of an early 18th-centuryFrench governor. The restored castle-like building is now a museum withexhibits about Montréal’s early history.Learn a few words or phrases in French and slip them into yourconversations with locals. They’ll appreciate your effort and you’ll learnthere’s more to the language than cul de sac, croissant and bonjour.AfternoonPractically just around the corner is Place Jacques-Cartier, technically apublic square but in reality more like a wide, sloping pedestrian mall. Thislively gathering spot is filled with open-air sidewalk cafes and, in summer,street performers, musicians and flower vendors. A monument at the topof the square honors Lord Nelson’s victory over Napoleon Bonaparte atTrafalgar.Montréal in 3 DaysThree days is barely enough time to get to knowany major destination. But AAA travel editorssuggest these activities to make the most of yourtime in Montréal.Day 1: MorningIn Old Montréal (Vieux Montréal) gas lamps,cobblestone streets and 18th- and 19th-centurybuildings repurposed as chic boutique hotels exudeOld World charm. Spend your first day here,strolling through the narrow streets on the island in the St. LawrenceRiver where explorers Jacques Cartier and Samuel de Champlain landedin 1535 and 1611 respectively. Shops, galleries and restaurants now linethe historic area’s main thoroughfare, rue St-Paul, and shopkeeperswelcome you with a friendly “Bonjour,” followed by a charmingly accented“Hello.”Finding the Basilica of Notre-Dame (Basilique Notre-Dame) isn’t difficult;the huge church’s twin spires are a Montréal landmark. Its interior—dark,The square is a good place for lunch, or you can opt for a meal nearby atChez l’Epicier Restaurant Bar a Vin. The name translates to “thegrocery,” which is fitting since the menus are printed on brown paperbags, and the eatery has an area with shelves stocked with gourmetproducts. Comfort food, prepared with a creative Québecois twist, mightinclude snail shepherd’s pie or parsnip soup, all prepared using fresh,locally available ingredients.After lunch, take a walk through The Old Port (Vieux Port) area, a broadpromenade that runs along the St. Lawrence River. You’ll join bicyclists,joggers and inline skaters taking in the views and enjoying the parklikeexpanse. Near the far end of the promenade is Pointe-à-Callière,Montréal Museum of Archaeology and History (Pointe-à-Callière, Muséed’archéologie et d’histoire de Montréal). Despite its contemporaryexterior, this museum is all about the past—in fact, it was built on top ofthe remains of Ville Marie, the earliest European colony. After viewing amultimedia presentation about Montréal’s history, visitors descend3

Destination Guide: MontréalMontréal in 3 Days – Day 1 MapDay 1 Details - Get additional information on AAA.com;AAA Diamond Rating information available on AAA.com/Diamonds- GEM Attraction offers a Great Experience for Members- Exclusive AAA member discounts available1. Old MontréalMontreal, QC H2Y 1C2Phone: (514) 842-94112. Basilica of Notre-Dame110 rue Notre-Dame OMontreal, QC H2Y 1T2Phone: (866) 842-29253. Place d'Armes333 rue de la Commune OMontreal, QC H2V 2E24. Château Ramezay Museum280 rue Notre-Dame EMontreal, QC H2Y 1C5Phone: (514) 861-37085. Place Jacques-Cartier333 rue de la Commune OMontreal, QC H2V 2E26. Chez l'EpicierRestaurant Bar a Vin311 rue St-Paul estMontreal, QC H2Y 1H3Phone: (514) 878-22327. The Old Port333 rue de la Commune OMontreal, QC H2Y 2E2Phone: (514) 496-76788. Pointe-à-Callière, MontréalMuseum of Archaeologyand History350 Place RoyaleMontreal, QC H2Y 3Y5Phone: (514) 872-91509. Montréal Science Centre333 rue de la Commune OMontreal, QC H2Y 2E2Phone: (514) 496-472410. La Menara256 rue St-Paul estMontreal, QC H2Y 1G9Phone: (514) 861-1989Get maps and turn-by-turn directions using TripTik Travel Planner on AAA.comunderground to the site of an archeological dig which has unearthed partof the old city wall and the city’s first Catholic cemetery.An alternative, especially if you’re traveling with children, is the MontréalScience Centre (Centre des sciences de Montréal), which you will seejust before the archeology museum. Easily identifiable by the bright redsculpture of molecules in front, the museum has an abundance of handson activities and an IMAX theater.EveningAfter returning to your hotel to relax a bit, head back to Old Montréal tothe Bonsecours Market (Marché Bonsecours), an impressive domedneoclassical building at the eastern end of rue St-Paul. This mid-19th-4

Destination Guide: Montréalcentury edifice, built as a public market, still draws shoppers, who comenow to scour the market’s upscale boutiques for items handmade byCanadian craftspeople.Nearby is La Menara, where a dinner reservation guarantees a change ofscenery, though you won’t need to bring your passport. Dining here is likea visit to an exotic Moroccan oasis, where meals are served in acanopied tent draped in vivid red fabrics and feature a choice of NorthAfrican favorites such as couscous and tajines along with sides oftraditional music and belly dancing.End your day in Old Montréal with a stroll around the romantically lithistoric district, stopping to window-shop at boutiques and art galleriesand possibly at a bakery or candy shop for a delectable confection.Day 2: MorningFor a true taste of Montréal, venture to the Plateau district to St-ViateurBagel & Cafe on rue St-Viateur Ouest near avenue du Parc. Locals claimMontréal bagels are far superior to those made in New York and that St.Viateur makes them better than anyone else. A Montréal institution, thisis the shop’s original location, and it’s open for take-out only 24/7. Try ahot sesame- or poppy-seed version, still shaped by hand, boiled in amixture of water and honey and then baked in a wood-burning oven, andsee if you agree.Grab a bagful to enjoy on the go as you head down avenue du Parc toMont-Royal Park (Parc du Mont-Royal), whose centerpiece mountain wasnamed by Jacques Cartier in 1535. You can hike up 764 feet (233meters) to the top of “the mountain,” as Montréalers call it (it’s actuallymore like a steep hill), for panoramic views of the city; buses and taxisare other options. The park is a favorite spot for hiking, bicycling, jogging,picnicking and, in winter, skiing.On a ridge of Mont Royal is St. Joseph’s Oratory (Oratoire Saint-Joseph),a huge basilica topped with a copper dome. The basilica was the vision ofBrother André, a humble man known for his healing powers whodreamed of building a shrine to his patron saint. André, who was beatifiedin 1982, is buried inside.You’ll recognize the names of many of the artists whose masterpiecesare displayed at the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts (Musée des beauxarts de Montréal), not far from the park on rue Sherbrooke. Themuseum’s two buildings hold world-class collections that span fromantiquity to the present. Works by Breughel, Cézanne, El Greco, Monet,Picasso and Rodin mingle with decorative arts and archeologicaltreasures from the Mediterranean region.AfternoonIn an area with many trendy, chic dining establishments, two to considerare just a few blocks away, both on rue Peel. Cavalli Ristorante-Bar isknown for its creative pasta dishes and other Italian fare as well as itssignature hot pink bar. Traditional Portuguese cuisine is on the menu atFerreira Café, with items such as caldo verde soup, salted cod, grilledoctopus, sardines and squid. This cozy bistro also has a notabledecorative element, a wall embedded with colorful broken dishes.Make your way back to rue Sherbrooke and a repository of Canadiana.The McCord Museum of Canadian History (Musée McCord d’histoirecanadienne), across the street from McGill University, might be called thecountry’s attic for its eclectic exhibits about everyday life during the last 3centuries. Costumes and textiles, an extensive archive of photographschronicling Montréal’s history, decorative arts, and objects created byCanada’s native peoples are noteworthy.Check out the haute couture at venerable Holt Renfrew and an array ofdesigner boutiques along rue Sherbrooke as you head east to boulevardSt-Laurent, popularly known as “the Main.” The Main is a dividing point intwo respects—it is the city’s east/west delineator and supposedly thedividing line between the Anglo community to the west and theFrancophone community on the east. In addition, the Main has been thetraditional corridor where succeeding waves of immigrants have settled,which explains its multicultural, hodgepodge assortment of funky shops,boutiques, cafes and hip bars and clubs.5

Destination Guide: MontréalEveningDinner choices are almost too numerous. Two longtime Montréalfavorites, Moishe’s Steak House and Schwartz’s Montreal HebrewDelicatessen are fixtures on boulevard St-Laurent. Huge steaks havebeen perfectly grilled over charcoal at Moishe’s since its opening in 1938,when it was known as Moishe’s Romanian Paradise. Schwartz’s, aroundsince 1928, is said to have the best “smoked meat” in town. (A Montréalspecialty, smoked meat is beef brisket that has been rubbed with a spiceblend, marinated and then smoked.) You can expect lines for lunch anddinner at this modest, no-nonsense one-room diner, but locals say it’sworth the wait for a medium-fat smoked meat sandwich piled high on ryebread. Don’t forget your “loonies” (Canadian 1 coins); credit cards aretaboo.Day 2 Details - Get additional information on AAA.com;AAA Diamond Rating information available on AAA.com/Diamonds- GEM Attraction offers a Great Experience for MembersMontréal in 3 Days – Day 2 Map- Exclusive AAA member discounts available1. St-Viateur Bagel & Cafe5629 Monkland AveMontreal, QC H4A 1E2Phone: (514) 487-80512. Mont-Royal Park1260 ch RemembranceMontreal, QC H3H 1A2Phone: (514) 843-8240Get maps and turn-by-turn directions using TripTik Travel Planner on AAA.com7. McCord Museum of Canadian History690 Sherbrooke St WMontreal, QC H3A 1E9Phone: (514) 398-71008. Moishe's Steak House3961 boul St-LaurentMontreal, QC H2W 1Y4Phone: (514) 845-16963. St. Joseph's Oratory3800 ch Queen MaryMontreal, QC H3V 1H6Phone: (514) 733-82119. Schwartz's MontrealHebrew Delicatessen3895 boul St-LaurentMontreal, QC H2W 1X9Phone: (514) 842-48134. Montréal Museum of Fine Arts1380 Sherbrooke St WMontreal, QC H2L 1M4Phone: (800) 899-687310. Restaurant Au Pied deCochon536 rue Duluth estMontreal, QC H2L 1A9Phone: (514) 281-11145. Cavalli Ristorante-Bar2040 rue PeelMontreal, QC H3A 2R4Phone: (514) 843-510011. L'Express3927 rue St-DenisMontreal, QC H2W 2M4Phone: (514) 845-53336. Ferreira Cafe1446 rue PeelMontreal, QC H4K 1Y2Phone: (514) 848-098812. Cafe Santropol3990 rue St-UrbainMontreal, QC H2W 1T7Phone: (514) 842-31106

Destination Guide: MontréalFor hearty Québecoise cuisine at its finest, head a little further into thePlateau district to Restaurant Au Pied de Cochon. Foie gras isincorporated into many of the dishes here, including the namesake piedde cochon (pig’s feet). The Québec staple poutine—a mound of Frenchfries covered with cheese curds and gravy—is a star as well. Don’t forgetto make a reservation; it’s a necessity here.Spend the rest of the evening becoming acquainted with the Plateau,which is especially lively at night. This melting pot has more than itsshare of trendy nightclubs, lounges, clothing stores and bistros. Inaddition to boulevard St-Laurent, explore the venues on rue St-Denis. Ofarchitectural interest are the graceful wrought iron outdoor staircasesprevalent on many of the district’s Victorian row houses. If you findyourself in need of a late-night snack about now, try the French bistrodelights at L’Express or the vegetarian offerings at the artsy CaféSantropol.love the Montréal Insectarium (Insectarium de Montréal), which is filledwith collections of all sorts of creepy-crawly things.AfternoonYou can grab a quick bite for lunch at one of the eateries at the Biodômeor nearby at Le Stadium Club Restaurant & Bar, which features Italianfare. The Olympic games’ velodrome has been recycled as the MontréalBiodôme, which features realistic representations of four ecosystems,each with its proper temperature and animal residents. Visitors can walkfrom a humid, tropical rainforest to a cool Laurentian forest and then on tothe marine environment of the St. LawrenceRiver and the chilly polar worlds of the Arcticand Antarctic.Day 3: MorningYou can breakfast at your hotel or at one of the many eateries inUnderground Montréal. This vast subterranean city, a respite fromMontréal’s traffic and harsh winter climate, has 18 miles (29 kilometers) ofinterconnected passageways with an extensive network of shops,restaurants, offices, hotels and Métro stations.Return to the Old Port area of Vieux Montréalto experience the St. Lawrence Riverfirsthand; the Métro is a good option for yourtrip. If you don’t mind a good soaking (evenwith the “waterproof” rain gear provided), Lachine Rapids Jet Boat Tours(Le voyage Saute-Moutons sur les Rapides de Lachine) will take youcrashing through waves that can reach 10 feet (3 meters). Tamersightseeing excursions are offered by the vessels of Le Bateau-Moucheand Montréal Harbour Cruises.Spend some time browsing, then take the Métro’s Green Line to the Viaustation; from there it’s a short walk to Olympic Park, the site of the 1976Summer Games. A funicular takes visitors to the observation level of aninclined tower where spectacular 360-degree views can reach more than50 miles (80 kilometers) on clear days. Clustered together with the parkare the Botanical Garden of Montréal (Jardin botanique de Montréal) andthe Montréal Biodôme (Biodôme de Montréal).EveningChange into business attire for an evening of fine dining and games ofchance on Île Notre-Dame in the St. Lawrence River. Montréal Casino isin the former Québec and French pavilions from the Expo 67 World’sFair. The elegant gambling establishment has several floors with morethan 3,200 slot machines and 120 table games, including baccarat,roulette, blackjack and craps. On the fifth floor of the casino is Nuances,a decidedly upscale restaurant that specializes in creative French cuisine.The colorful botanical garden has 10 greenhouses, an arboretum and 30themed areas; be sure to see the Chinese Garden (Jardin de Chine) andthe Japanese Garden and Pavilion (Jardin et Pavillon japonais). Kids willOn your return to the city proper, linger for a while in Vieux Montréal.Rides in a calèche (horse-drawn carriage) depart from Place d’Armesand Place Jacques-Cartier, among others, or they can be arranged byyour hotel.7

Destination Guide: MontréalMontréal in 3 Days – Day 3 MapDay 3 Details - Get additional information on AAA.com;AAA Diamond Rating information available on AAA.com/Diamonds- GEM Attraction offers a Great Experience for Members- Exclusive AAA member discounts available1. Olympic Park3200 rue ViauMontreal, QC H1V 3N7Phone: (514) 252-47377. Le Stadium ClubRestaurant & Bar5000 rue Sherbrooke estMontreal, QC H1V 1A1Phone: (514) 253-51952. Botanical Garden of Montréal4101 rue Sherbrooke EMontreal, QC H1X 2B2Phone: (514) 872-14008. Lachine Rapids Jet Boat ToursMontreal, QC H2Y 2C7Phone: (514) 284-96073. Montréal Biodôme4777 av Pierre-de-CoubertinMontreal, QC H1V 1B3Phone: (514) 868-30004. Chinese Garden4101 rue Sherbrooke EMontreal, QC H1X 2B25. Japanese Garden and Pavilion4101 rue Sherbrooke EMontreal, QC H1X 2B26. Montréal Insectarium4581 rue Sherbrooke EMontreal, QC H1X 2B29. Le Bateau-MoucheMontreal, QC H2Y 1Y1Phone: (514) 849-995210. Montréal Harbour CruisesMontreal, QC H2L 5B9Phone: (514) 842-387111. Île Notre-DameMontreal, QC H3C 1A9Phone: (514) 872-612012. Montréal Casino1 av du CasinoMontreal, QC H3C 4W7Phone: (800) 665-227413. Nuances1 ave du CasinoMontreal, QC H3C 4W7Phone: (514) 392-2708Get maps and turn-by-turn directions using TripTik Travel Planner on AAA.com8

Destination Guide: MontréalRestaurantsMontréal’s multiculturalism is vividly reflected in the city’s diverserestaurant scene. Add a pinch of this, a dash of that—and voilà, there youhave it: the perfect Montréal dining experience. For starters, let’s begin inOld Montréal, where the city was founded in 1642.French and Asian influences give comfortfood a new twist within the stone walls ofChez l’Epicier Restaurant Bar a Vin (l’épicieris French for “the grocery”). This casuallyelegant eatery, wine bar and grocery—wherethe menus are printed on paper bags andwater is served from milk bottles—faces the historic Bonsecours Market.The restaurant’s fine cuisine may include selections such as arctic char,milk-fed veal carpaccio, snail shepherd’s pie and parmesan oil raviolis.Specialty gourmet items, including cheeses, sauces, oils and sorbets, areavailable for takeout, and guests can sip wines by the glass or bottle inthe adjacent wine bar. The restaurant’s 2,000-bottle wine cellar includesmany private imports and specialty wines, the majority of which are fromFrance, with impressive selections from Burgundy and the Loire andRhone valleys.Diners exchange the Gallic ambience of Old Montréal for the atmosphereof a Moroccan oasis when they enter La Menara. Opulent red fabricdrapings create the feeling of being in a desert tent, and belly dancersentertain as guests partake of dishes such as pastilla, a chicken andalmond pie; various versions of couscous; and fragrant tajines, stewstypically created from chicken, fish or lamb.Other ethnic fare can be found in restaurants in Montréal’s downtownarea. What first catches your eye inside Cavalli Ristorante-Bar is thelively front-to-back bar area with its stylish hot pink illuminated backdropand the establishment’s chic, professional patrons. The restaurant’sfusion-style cuisine, Italian with a Mediterranean flair, places an emphasison creative pasta dishes and makes use of the freshest available fish andseafood. French and Italian selections dominate the impressive wine list.In the heart of the downtown business core is Ferreira Cafe, aPortuguese bistro with an eclectic clientele. A wall embedded withcolorful broken pottery provides a striking decorative background for theyellow-hued dining room, which has large windows that are opened insummer. This is an ideal place to unwind after work and indulge inPortuguese specialties such as grilled sardines, calamari, octopus,poached salmon, salted cod, rack of lamb, shrimp bisque and caldoverde soup. Dozens of ports and muscatels are featured on a wine listthat’s heavy on private imports from Portugal.The name of Newtown Restaurant is derived from the nickname ofQuébec-born Formula 1 driver and co-owner Jacques Villeneuve (ville town and neuve new). The stylish and fast-paced dining room,downstairs from the dance club and upstairs from the lounge, is about asclose as you can get to the nightlife buzz of Crescent Street. Guestsspend a glamorous night sampling superbly presented Mediterraneandishes and selections from a comprehensive wine list.Tradition, refined service and classic dishes are the hallmarks of TheBeaver Club, whose upscale dining room is accented by rich woodpaneling, a stone wall and elegant table settings. It’s a formula that’sbrought regulars back for decades to the signature restaurant in thelegendary Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth. Canadian and French cuisinesare at the heart of the international menu, which has an excellentselection of wild game. Impressive presentation marks such dishes aslobster enhanced with champagne and truffled macaroni, pan-fried blackAlaskan cod, Boileau-region deer, grilled caribou and scampi. Or try therack of lamb, breast of duck, pan-seared foie gras, filet mignon, fresh fishor roast prime rib. Such memorable desserts as crêpes suzette andcherries jubilee are prepared tableside.The area north of downtown has its share of eateries as well. The rich,decadent Québec cuisine at Restaurant Au Pied de Cochon may be too9

Destination Guide: Montréalmuch of a good thing, but it’s oh, so satisfying. The casual bistrobrasserie strips away traditional fine-cuisine formality for an emphasis onhigh-quality fresh ingredients. Sample duck with foie gras cooked in a canand opened at the table, or the chef’s version of the classic Québecpoutine, a concoction of french fries smothered in cheese curds and hotgravy. Try pied de cochon (pig’s feet) stuffed with foie gras, or the grainfed veal tourtière (meat pie), venison tartare, sea snails, lobster, soft-shellcrabs, oysters on the half-shell, blood pudding or springtime fiddleheads.Start off with some oreilles-de-crisse (Christ’s ears), a traditional Québecsugar shack appetizer of crispy, deep-fried strips of pork skin. Washdown your meal with fine wines available by the glass or bottle.Where do you go for more Québec comfort food and the city’s best bakedbeans? The “binerie,” of course. La Binerie Mont-Royal, family-operatedsince 1940, is a bustling little diner in the heart of a trendy residentialneighborhood. It is an ideal spot to sample affordable and traditionalFrench Canadian foods such as pea soup, tourtière (meat pie), stews,wieners and baked beans with maple syrup, or pâté made from porkdrippings. For dessert try Québec classics such as sugar pie or poudingchomeur (unemployment pudding). The narrow diner has a tidy butmodest décor with counter or table seating. The owners and familymembers provide friendly personalized service.The upscale Moishe’s Steak House is part of history on “the Main”—apopular strip for authentic ethnic cuisine, cafes and dance clubs. Thislong-standing favorite of Montréalers is always busy (especially onweekends). Servers bring bowls of kosher dill pickles and coleslaw tomunch on while you wait for your main course. In addition to its specialtyof hearty premium cuts of American beef, the menu also includes grilledfish, chopped liver, chicken, potato latkes and Monte Carlo potatoes. Animpressive selection of vintage wines is stored in dark wood winecabinets. Expect to wait, even with a reservation, on busy nights.More than a light lunch eatery, Wilensky’s Light Lunch Inc. is a morsel ofMontréal’s Jewish history. This vintage corner deli was used as a locationfor the 1974 film “The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz,” starring RichardDreyfuss. The deli stands proudly in the multicultural neighborhood madefamous in the Mordecai Richler novel that inspired the film. Family-runsince 1932, the décor remains virtually untouched. Take a seat at thecounter and enjoy Wilensky’s “special” sandwich made with salami,bologna and a choice of cheese. Or you can try a chopped egg sandwich,half-sour dill pickles, karnatzel (sort of like beef jerky) or an all-beef hotdog.Still north of downtown Montréal, but a little farther out, is another groupof restaurants. Near Old Montréal is Restaurant Toqué!, which left theneighborly Latin Quarter behind and moved across from the Montréalconvention center in 2004. Since its opening, this eatery has earned ravereviews and is regarded as a “must” stop for Montréal-bound gourmets.The well-spaced tables are luxuriously set and the ambience is relaxed inthe roomy, stylish dining area. The restaurant takes great pride in usingonly the freshest regional ingredients and in the beautiful presentation ofits dishes. Visitors can dine on the seaside grazed Québec lamb, HavreSt-Pierre scallops, pan-seared foie gras, suckling pig, guinea fowl andBoileau venison or try the multicourse tasting menu. Guests are invited topause from their dinner and tour the kitchen, where they can seeexecutive chef and owner Normand Laprise working in symphony with hisskilled staff.The clientele is hip and the décor artsy at Cafe Santropol, a spirited,eclectic restaurant catering to the health-conscious crowd. Sweet rootand minted ham sandwiches, vegetarian chili, desserts, milkshakes andfair-trade teas and coffees can be enjoyed with friends or while sittingalone, reading a good book and munching on a sweet carrot and alfalfasprout sandwich. The socially aware owners also manage an off-siteorganization that delivers food to the underprivileged.Reservations are a must at L’Express, a lively French-style bistro that hasbeen a favorite with Montréalers since 1980. The café, on a trendycommercial strip in a multicultural residential neighborhood, has a classicdécor featuring a black and white checkered tile floor, elegant artwork,upscale tabletops, tightly spaced seating and a bar counter for cocktails10

Destination Guide: Montréalor casua

Montreal, QC H2Y 1T2 Phone: (866) 842-2925 3. Place d'Armes 333 rue de la Commune O Montreal, QC H2V 2E2 4. Château Ramezay Museum 280 rue Notre-Dame E Montreal, QC H2Y 1C5 Phone: (514) 861-3708 5. Place Jacques-Cartier 333 rue de la Commune O Montreal, QC H2V 2E2 6. Chez l'Epicier Restaurant Bar a Vin 311 rue St-Paul est Montreal, QC H2Y 1H3File Size: 2MB