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AustraliaFORDUMmIES‰1STEDITIONby Marc Llewellyn & Lee Mylne

Australia For Dummies , 1st EditionPublished byWiley Publishing, Inc.111 River St.Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774www.wiley.comCopyright 2008 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, IndianaPublished simultaneously in CanadaNo part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form orby any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior writtenpermission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to theCopyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600.Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing,Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for theRest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, Dummies.com and related tradedress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in theUnited States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendormentioned in this book.LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NOREPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OFTHE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BECREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIESCONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THEUNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING,OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICESOF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NORTHE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIALSOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHERENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTEDIN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTENAND WHEN IT IS READ.PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THISIS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEADFOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOTBE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING.For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer CareDepartment within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002.For technical support, please visit www.wiley.com/techsupport.Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print maynot be available in electronic books.Library of Congress Control Number: 2008922121ISBN: 978-0-470-17834-8Manufactured in the United States of America10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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AustraliaFORDUMmIES‰1STEDITIONby Marc Llewellyn & Lee Mylne

Australia For Dummies , 1st EditionPublished byWiley Publishing, Inc.111 River St.Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774www.wiley.comCopyright 2008 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, IndianaPublished simultaneously in CanadaNo part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form orby any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior writtenpermission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to theCopyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400, fax 978-646-8600.Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing,Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317-572-3447, fax 317-572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions.Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley Publishing logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for theRest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Dummies Daily, The Fun and Easy Way, Dummies.com and related tradedress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc., and/or its affiliates in theUnited States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc., is not associated with any product or vendormentioned in this book.LIMIT OF LIABILITY/DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NOREPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OFTHE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BECREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIESCONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THEUNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING,OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICESOF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NORTHE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANIZATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIALSOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHERENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANIZATION OR WEB SITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEB SITES LISTEDIN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTENAND WHEN IT IS READ.PLEASE BE ADVISED THAT TRAVEL INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AND THISIS ESPECIALLY TRUE OF PRICES. WE THEREFORE SUGGEST THAT READERS WRITE OR CALL AHEADFOR CONFIRMATION WHEN MAKING TRAVEL PLANS. THE AUTHOR AND THE PUBLISHER CANNOTBE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXPERIENCES OF READERS WHILE TRAVELING.For general information on our other products and services, please contact our Customer CareDepartment within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993, or fax 317-572-4002.For technical support, please visit www.wiley.com/techsupport.Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print maynot be available in electronic books.Library of Congress Control Number: 2008922121ISBN: 978-0-470-17834-8Manufactured in the United States of America10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

About the AuthorsSydney resident Marc Llewellyn is one of Australia’s premier travel writers and the winner of several writing awards. He is the president of theAustralian Society of Travel Writers. He’s written two travelogues; Ridersto the Midnight Sun tells of his journey from the Ukrainian Black Sea tothe Russian Arctic on a cheap bicycle. His latest manuscript, with theworking title Islands of the Winds, tells the story of a year working as apeasant farmer and shrimp fisherman on an island off Sicily. He is thecoauthor of Frommer’s Australia.Lee Mylne has spent almost all her working life as a journalist — in newspapers, magazines, and radio — and has travelled to more than 40 countries. Born and raised in New Zealand, she has lived in Australia since1986 and is currently based in Melbourne. In 2006, she was awarded LifeMembership of the Australian Society of Travel Writers, of which she isa past president. She is the coauthor of Frommer’s Australia, the authorof Frommer’s Portable Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, and a contributor toFrommer’s Dream Vacations. She is also the coeditor and a contributor tothe anthology Best Foot Forward, 30 Years of Australian Travel Writing.

Publisher’s AcknowledgmentsWe’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our Dummiesonline registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/.Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following:EditorialEditors: Heather Wilcox, ProductionEditor; Cate Latting andKathleen Warnock,Development EditorsCopy Editor: Elizabeth KuballCartographer: Guy RuggieroEditorial Assistant: Jennifer PollandSenior Photo Editor: Richard FoxCover Photos: Eric Meola/Getty ImagesCartoons: Rich Tennant(www.the5thwave.com)Composition ServicesProject Coordinator: Lynsey StanfordLayout and Graphics: Claudia Bell,Carl Byers, Joyce Haughey,Stephanie D. JumperProofreaders: Melanie Hoffman,Caitie Kelly, Lisa StiersIndexer: Slivoskey Indexing ServicesPublishing and Editorial for Consumer DummiesDiane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer DummiesJoyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer DummiesKristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer DummiesMichael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, TravelKelly Regan, Editorial Director, TravelPublishing for Technology DummiesAndy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, DummiesTechnology/General UserComposition ServicesGerry Fahey, Vice President of Production ServicesDebbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services

Contents at a GlanceIntroduction .1Part I: Introducing Australia .7Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Australia .9Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Australia .17Chapter 3: Deciding When and Where to Go .26Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary: Four Great Options .36Part II: Planning Your Trip to Australia.45Chapter 5: Managing Your Money .47Chapter 6: Getting to Australia .58Chapter 7: Getting Around Australia .66Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations .79Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests .87Chapter 10: Taking Care of the Remaining Details .96Part III: Sydney, Melbourne, and theAustralian Capital Territory.105Chapter 11: Sydney .107Chapter 12: The Best of New South Wales .174Chapter 13: Melbourne .194Chapter 14: The Best of Victoria .224Chapter 15: Canberra/ACT .235Part IV: Brisbane, Queensland, and theGreat Barrier Reef .247Chapter 16: Brisbane .249Chapter 17: Queensland and the Best of theGreat Barrier Reef .269Part V: The Red Centre and the Top End .349Chapter 18: The Best of the Red Centre .351Chapter 19: The Best of the Top End .374Part VI: The South and West.399Chapter 20: Adelaide and the Best of South Australia .401Chapter 21: Perth and the Best of Western Australia .430Part VII: Tasmania .461Chapter 22: Tasmania .463Chapter 23: Exploring the Rest of Tasmania.476

Part VIII: The Part of Tens.487Chapter 24: Ten Convict Connections .489Chapter 25: Ten Expressions You Need to Know .496Appendix: Quick Concierge.498Index .508Maps at a GlanceAustralia.28Sydney Harbour Area .111Central Sydney Hotels .118Central Sydney Dining .132Sydney Attractions .146The Blue Mountains .175The Hunter Valley .185Central Melbourne Hotels and Dining .203Central Melbourne Attractions .213Victoria.225Canberra .239Brisbane.254Queensland .272Cairns .283Port Douglas, Daintree, and Cape Tribulation .295The Whitsunday Region.313Central Queensland Coast .325The Gold Coast .337The Red Centre .353Alice Springs .357The Northern Territory .375Darwin .381Kakadu National Park.391South Australia .403Hotels, Dining, and Sightseeing in Adelaide .407The Barossa.417Kangaroo Island .422Perth.435Margaret River Region .455Tasmania .465Hobart .467

Table of ContentsIntroduction .1About This Book.1Conventions Used in This Book .2Foolish Assumptions .3How This Book Is Organized.3Part I: Introducing Australia .3Part II: Planning Your Trip to Australia .3Part III: Sydney, Melbourne, and theAustralian Capital Territory .4Part IV: Brisbane, Queensland, and theGreat Barrier Reef .4Part V: The Red Centre and the Top End .4Part VI: The South and West.4Part VII: Tasmania .4Part VIII: The Part of Tens.4Icons Used in This Book.5Where to Go from Here.5Part I: Introducing Australia .7Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Australia.9The Best Luxury Hotels.9The Best Moderate and AlternativeAccommodations .10The Best Dining Experiences.11The Best Museums.12The Best of Aboriginal Culture .12The Best Natural Scenery .13The Best Places to Snorkel and Dive .14The Best Wildlife Viewing .15The Best Beaches.15The Best Places for a Bushwalk .16Chapter 2: Digging Deeper into Australia.17History 101: The Main Events.17Taking In Australia’s Landscape.19Meeting Australia’s Unique Animals.20Meeting the People Down Under .22The Aboriginal people.22How immigration has changed Australia’spopulation.24

xAustralia For Dummies, 1st EditionEating and Drinking in Australia .24All about Australian wine.24Australian for “beer,” mate! .25Chapter 3: Deciding When and Where to Go .26Going Everywhere You Want to Be .26Sydney and New South Wales .27Melbourne and Victoria .27Canberra and the Australian Capital Territory.27Brisbane, Queensland, and theGreat Barrier Reef .30The Red Centre .30The Top End .30Perth and Western Australia .31Adelaide and South Australia.31Tasmania .31Scheduling Your Time.31Revealing the Secrets of the Seasons .32Perusing a Calendar of Events.33January.33February.33March .33April .34May .34June.34July.34August .34September.34October .35November .35December.35Chapter 4: Following an Itinerary:Four Great Options .36Seeing Australia’s Highlights in One Week.37Seeing More of Australia in Two Weeks .39Discovering Australia with Kids.41Wining and Dining (and Wildflowers) in MargaretRiver, Western Australia .42Part II: Planning Your Trip to Australia .45Chapter 5: Managing Your Money.47Planning Your Budget .47Transportation .47Lodging.48

Table of ContentsDining .49Sightseeing.49Shopping and nightlife .50Cutting Costs — But Not the Fun .50Handling Money .52Using ATMs and carrying cash.52Charging ahead with credit cards.54Toting traveler’s checks.54Taking Taxes into Account.55Dealing with a Lost or Stolen Wallet .55Chapter 6: Getting to Australia .58Flying to Australia (and Stops along the Way) .58The major airports (and which airlines flyinto them) .59Getting the Best Deal on Your Airfare .60Working with consolidators .61Booking your flight online .61Considering an Escorted or Package Tour .62Choosing a package tour .64Chapter 7: Getting Around Australia.66Making Your Way Around Australia .66By plane .66By train.69By bus.71By car .72Chapter 8: Booking Your Accommodations.79Staying in Style .80Hotels .80Serviced apartments .82Motels and motor inns .82Bed-and-breakfast inns (B&Bs) .82Staying on an Aussie farm.83Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate.84Surfing the Web for hotel deals.84Reserving the best room.85Chapter 9: Catering to Special Needs or Interests .87Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families .87Making Age Work for You: Tips for Seniors .88Accessing Australia: Advice for Travelerswith Disabilities .89Following the Rainbow: Resources for Gayand Lesbian Travelers .90Active Australia: Where to Go for the Gusto .91xi

xiiAustralia For Dummies, 1st EditionScuba diving .92Bushwalking (hiking).93Biking.94Bird-watching .94Canoeing and sea kayaking.94Fishing .95Golf.95Sailing .95Chapter 10: Taking Care of the RemainingDetails .96Getting a Passport.96Applying for a U.S. passport.97Applying for passports in other countries .97Getting a visa for your trip to Australia .98Playing It Safe: Travel and Medical Insurance.99Staying Healthy When You Travel.100Spiders, snakes, and other beasties .101Slip, slop, slap in the sun .102Staying Connected by Cellphone .102Accessing the Internet away from Home .103Keeping Up with Airline Security Measures .104Part III: Sydney, Melbourne, and theAustralian Capital Territory .105Chapter 11: Sydney.107Getting There.108By air .108By train.108By bus.108By cruise ship.108By car .108Getting from the Airport into Sydney.109Finding Information after You Arrive.109Orienting Yourself in Sydney .110Introducing the Neighbourhoods.112Circular Quay .112The Rocks .112Town Hall .112Darling Harbour .112Kings Cross and the suburbs beyond .112Paddington/Oxford Street.113Darlinghurst.113Central.113

Table of ContentsxiiiNewtown .113Glebe.113Bondi and the southern beaches.113Watsons Bay .113The North Shore .113Manly and the northern beaches.114Balmain .114Homebush Bay .114Getting Around

Joyce Pepple, Acquisitions Director, Consumer Dummies Kristin A. Cocks, Product Development Director, Consumer Dummies Michael Spring, Vice President and Publisher, Travel Kelly Regan, Editorial Director, Travel Publishing for Technology Dummies Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dumm