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Hazelnut OilCorylus avelianaHazelnut oilOleic acid makes up 75% of hazel nut oil, that,combined with tannins naturally present in heoil make it slightly astringent. Hazel nut oil ismild with minimal odor, ideal as a neutral basefor essential oils. You can also use hazelnut oil incooking. The tannins benefit the the skinpromoting circulation while the generoussqualene content nourishes skin lipids.Hazelnut oil is especially good for oily skin withover active sebaceous glands. It helps to calmoil production and tighten the pores. It isconsidered a dry oil, penetrating withoutleaving an oily or greasy feel. High vitamin Econtent protects against oxidative damage andhelps repair and nourish the tissues.Substitutions: camellia oil, almond oil, marulaoil.‣‣‣‣‣‣‣Tannins make it an astringent dry oilVitamin and mineralsBeta sitosterol calms inflammationHigh in vitamin EAbsorbs quickly and deeplyMild for sensitive skinContains squaleneOleic acidLinoleic acidPalmitic acidStearic acid75%10%5%3%Unsaponifiables1.5%Susan M Parker 2017

Hemp seed OilCannabis indicaSubstitutions: blackberry seed oil, rose hip seedoilHemp seed oilHemp seed oil has an unusual range of fattyacids that make it highly nourishing and healing,including beneficial GLA and SDA.GLA is anti-inflammatory helping to reduceredness and support the skin’s innate immunesystem. While SDA’s highly unsaturatedstructure aids in treating skin blemishes andother inflammatory skin conditions. Stearidonicfatty acid has a highly unsaturated structure, thatcombined with linoleic and alpha-linolenic acidscreates an oil with powerful skin healingproperties.‣‣‣‣‣‣Absorbs wellGLA fatty acid for inflammationStearidonic acid anti inflammatory and bridge FAReparative of skin damageProtective of skinCalled “nature’s perfectly balanced oil”Linoleic acidAlpha-linolenicOleic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidGamma linoleic acid C18:3Arachidic acid C20:0Stearidonic acid C18:4Susan M Parker 201755%20%14%7%3%4%2%2%

Jojoba OilSimmondsia chinensisJojoba oilYes, it’s a wax and technically not an oil, but it isliquid at room temperatures and we use it in thesame manner as true oils. Jojoba’s very longchains of fatty acids are linked by ester bondsand not triglycerides. It has a similar fatty acidcomposition to meadowfoam seed oil (which isa true oil) making these two interchangeable informulas.Jojoba oil has a similar structure to the skin'snatural sebum. This makes it highly compatiblewith most skin types. Jojoba’s ability to absorbinto the top layers of skin is an added, ifunexpected bonus for this oil. High in vitamin E,jojoba supplies antioxidant protection againstenvironment and weather. It is a light colored oilwith no aroma. An all purpose oil for skin careand a carrier oil for essential oil blends.Substitutions: Meadowfoam seed oil‣‣‣‣‣‣82% very-long chain fatty acidsGenerous antioxidantsExtreme oxidative stabilityReparative of skin damage and UV exposureHigh in vitamin EAbsorbs and protectsEicosenoic acid C20:1Erucic acid C22:1Oleic acid C18:1Palmitic acid C16:0Palmitoleic acidSusan M Parker 201765%16%13%3%1%

Kukui nut OilAleurtes moluccanaKukui nut oilHarvested from the state tree of Hawaii, kukuiis also called candle nut because of its oil richkernels that the ancient Hawaiians burned forlight. Kukui nut oil is high in linoleic andalpha-linolenic essential fatty acids. The highpercentages of these two essential fatty acidsgives kukui nut oil the ability to balancedeficiencies in the skin. The oil has a favoredplace in Hawaii where it is used for massage,skin conditioning, sunning and on babies andnew borns for protection from the elements.Kukui nut oil is rich in vitamins, minerals andantioxidant compounds that protect the skinfrom sun, salt and weather. Oils like kukui,high in the essential fatty acids help treat skinconditions like eczema, psoriasis anddermatitis. The oil is light in color with littleodor.Substitutions: blackberry seed oil, raspberryseed oil, rose hip seed oil‣‣‣‣‣Generous antioxidants, carotenesReparative of skin damage and UV exposurePale color with little to no scentAbsorbs quickly and deeplyMoisturizes and protectsLinoleic acidAlpha-linolenicOleic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidArachidonic acid 20:4Susan M Parker 201745%32%20%8%5%1.5%

Macadamia OilMacadamia ternifoliaMacadamia nut oilMacadamia nut oil is rich in oleic acid and is agood oil for skin protection. It is high inpalmitoleic acid (20%) which is a building blockfatty acid for the skin. It is also anti-microbial,helping heal wounds and minimize cellularbreakdown. Antioxidants in the oil help protectagainst environmental damage including UVdamage to the skin. Phytosterols protect, aidingin skin recovery by helping reduce itchiness andinflammation. Macadamia nut oil can have apronounced nutty scent that is hard toovercome if used too high a percentage in aformula. It its an excellent massage oil, great formature skin and damaged skin.Substitutions: avocado oil, apricot kernel oil‣‣‣‣‣‣‣Omega 7, palmitoleic acid, 16 to 23%Generous antioxidantsOxidative stabilityReparative of skin damage and UV exposureAbsorbs well into the skinGood for massage and skin conditioningCan have a nutty scentOleic acidPalmitoleic acid PalmiticacidStearic acidArachidic acid C20:0Linoleic acidEicosenoic acid C20: 1Susan M Parker 201760%20%8%4%2%2%2%

Meadowfoam OilLimnanthes albaMeadowfoam seed oilMeadowfoam seed oil is made up of unusualvery long chain fatty acids. It is similar to jojoba‘oil’ in structure and use. It is an unsaturated oilthat has an exceptionally long shelf life becausethe long fatty acid chains are resistant tooxidation. This helps keep the oil fresh, and iteven helps stabilize other more delicate oils informulas.In skin care, the very long chains supply tracefatty acids that protect and nourish the skin. It ispenetrating and fast absorbing. Meadowfoamseed oil is high in vitamin E adding antioxidantprotection to formulas.It is a light color oil with no aroma, perfect as abase or carrier oil for blending essential oils.Adding meadowfoam seed oil helps extend theshelf life of other oils in a blend.Substitutions: Jojoba oil‣‣‣‣‣‣96% Very long chain fatty acidsGenerous antioxidantsExtreme oxidative stabilityReparative of skin damage and UV exposureHigh in vitamin EAbsorbs and protectsGadoleic acid C20:1Brassic acid C22:2Erucic acid C22:1Oleic acid C18:1Susan M Parker 201762%18%13%3%

Passion fruit OilPassiflora incarnataPassion fruit seed oilPassion fruit seed oil is high in polyunsaturatedlinoleic acid. In herbal medicine, passion floweris sedative and a calming medicine and the oilof passion fruit seeds act similarly, calming andrelaxing skin tissues. The oil is high in mineralsthat contribute to its calming properties.Add passion fruit seed oil to massage oils tohelp relax sore or stiff muscles. Passion fruit ishigh in vitamin C, and that may contributevitamin like benefits to the skin. Passion fruitseed oil is wonderful in face and body oils,massage oils and calming essential oil blends. Itis native to the Amazon where it grows acrosstropical and temperate regions. The oil is mildwith a light fruity scent. In its native SouthAmerica, you can find it under it’s commonname Maracuja.Substitutions: safflower oil, grape seed oil,cucumber seed oil.‣ Generous mineral content, calcium andphosphorus‣ High vitamin C fruit‣ Absorbs well into the skin‣ Mild for sensitive skin‣ Relaxing and calming to skin tissuesLinoleic acidOleic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidAlpha-linolenicSusan M Parker 201777%12%8%2%2%

Plum kernel OilPrunus domesticablending. Substitutions: apricot kernel oil,almond oil, peach kernel oilPlum kernel oilPlum kernel oil is high in monounsaturatedoleic acid. It is a, light, stable oil ideal as abase or carrier oil for skin care formulas andessential oil blends. It is mild and gentle,sometimes with a pronounced nutty marzipanscent. Naturally occurring plant sterols calmredness and support collagen production inthe skin. Plum kernel oil has a twenty percentlinoleic acid content that helps the the oilabsorb into the skin fairly rapidly withoutfeeling oily. Plum kernel oil has a rich silky feeland it is high in vitamin E and minerals. Smallamounts of very long chain fatty acids supportthe skin. As a carrier it has a pronouncedscent so you may want to combine it withother carrier oils to create a neutral base for‣‣‣‣‣High in vitamin EGood for massageRosaceae botanical familyMild and gentle oil for sensitive skinEmollient and sustainingOleic acidLinoleic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidAlpha-linolenicPalmitoleic acid70%20%6%2%1%0.5%Plus small amounts of Arachidic, Myristic,Eicosenoic, Behenic, Erucic, Lignoceric andMargaric acids and unsaponifiablesSusan M Parker 2017

Pomegranate OilPunica granatumPomegranate seed oilPomegranate seed oil is highly unusual,primarily composed of punicic acid. Punicic acidis unique to pomegranate seed oil. It is a naturalconjugated trans fatty acid that causes the oil tofeel thick and viscous. Mix it with other, lighteroils to counteract the thick, viscous feel.Punicic acid is anti inflammatory, anti microbialand cell regenerating. Its ability to supportcollagen health is an extra boon for mature skinand skin that has thinned prematurely. Planthormones found in the nutritional compoundsof the fruit help to keep skin toned andplumped.The photo above shows two pomegranate seedoils; one very lightly processed and highlyscented the other refined for cosmetic use.Substitutions: Sandalwood seed oil‣‣‣‣‣‣High in Punicic acid, thickens skinPhyto, plant, hormones, and sterolsAntioxidant richReparative of skin damage and UV exposureProvides collagen supportThick and viscous, better if dilutedPunicic acidLinoleic acidOleic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidSusan M Parker 201778%7%6%2%1%

Raspberry OilRubus idaeusantioxidants nourish and protect the skin andhelp extend the oil’s shelf life.Raspberry seed oilRaspberry seed oil contains high percentages ofpolyunsaturated fatty acids that help this oilpenetrate the skin deeply, rapidly, andcompletely. The oleic acid balances these twopolyunsaturated fatty acids, adding to itsprotective and reparative qualities. Unrefinedraspberry seed oil smells ever so slightly of thefruit and has a pale amber color.Carotenes, pro-vitamin A botanical compoundshelp protect the skin from environmentalexposure and sun damage. It is NOT a sunscreen because it doesn't shield the skin fromthe sun but it helps protect the tissues fromradiation damage. The high percentages ofSubstitutions: blackberry seed oil, rose hip seedoil‣‣‣‣‣Generous antioxidants, carotenesOxidative stabilityReparative of skin damage and UV exposureRosaceae plant familyAbsorbs quickly and deeplyLinoleic acidAlpha-linolenicOleic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidSusan M Parker 201752%22%11%2%1%

Rose hip seed OilRosa rubiginosaSubstitutions: blackberry seed oil, raspberryseed oilRose hip seed oilRose hip seed oil has antioxidant and otherplant compounds that repair and nourish theskin. It is exceptionally good for minimizing andpreventing scarring and its reparative, cellrejuvenating properties make it a popularingredient in anti-aging serums and facial oils.Rose hip seed oil varies in color as you can seein the photo top right. The less refined organicversions carry more of the nourishing and antioxidant compounds than the paler, more highlyrefined versions. Unrefined rose hip seed oiloften has strong smell. Use small amounts toyour formula to add healing benefits withoutadding too much odor.‣‣‣‣‣Prevents scarring and repairs old damageGenerous antioxidants, carotenesBalanced fatty acid profileReparative of skin damage and UV exposureRosaceae plant family, also called RosaMosqueta and originally from Chile‣ Absorbs quickly and deeplyLinoleic acidAlpha-linolenicOleic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidArachidic acidMyristic acidSusan M Parker 201744%33%15%4%2%1%0.5%

Sesame seed OilSesamum indicumserums and it is a staple in Ayurvedic healthpractices.Sesame seed oilSesame seed oil has two unique antioxidantcompounds, sesamin and sesamol. It is alsohigh high in linoleic acid, a fatty acid thatusually indicates a shorter shelf life, but thesetwo unique antioxidants help protect the oilfrom rancidity. The dominant percentage oflinoleic acid in sesame oil helps it absorb wellinto the skin. Unrefined sesame oil has a mildnutty scent. Be careful not to confuse it with thetoasted sesame oil used in Asian cooking oryour formulas will end up smelling more ediblethan you might want. Sesame oil is good forinfusing herbs and flowers, as a base inmassage oil blends, skin conditioning, facialSubstitutions: argan oil, baobab oil, rice bran oil‣‣‣‣‣‣‣Sesamin and sesamol antioxidantsGenerous linoleic acidOxidative stabilityReparative of skin damage and UV exposureMoisturizingAbsorbs quickly and deeplyAyurvedic lifestyle practicesLinoleic acidOleic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidAlpha-linoleicPalmitoleic acidSusan M Parker 201745%40%9%5%1%0.5%

Tamanu OilCaulophyllum InophyllumS rose hip seed for repair, blackTamanu oilTamanu oil has a distinctive herbal scent andis typically thick and gloppy or brighter greena a and how refined it is. The glyco-lipids,starches that bind to the oil give it a smoothslippery pasty feel unlike any other oil I’vecome across.Tamanu oil has a well earned reputation for a a ha a htopical skin conditions and as well asunderlying issues like sciatica andinflammatory conditions. Even small amountsof this viscous green oil add healing repairingproperties to formulas. Tamanu oil comesfrom the Pacific basin region.seed oil for inflammation.‣‣‣‣‣‣High phospholipid contentG ! "# % ! &epair and regenerate skinAbsorbs deeply into the bodyHelps alleviate pain and muscle sorenessHelps prevent and repair scarringN'(ty herbal scentOleic acidLinoleic acidPalmitic acidStearic acidMyristic acidAlpha-linolenicEicosenoic acidCaulophyllic acid% unknown49%21%15%12%3%1%1%unique to this oil,

Glossary& termsAlpha-Linolenic Acid (LNA): one of two essential fattyacids that need to be consumed in the diet, an omega3 fatty acid.Antioxidant: inhibits the oxidation process by reducingthe number of free radical oxygen molecules that arereleased in biochemical reactions, which damage cellmembranes. Examples include vitamins E, C, rosemaryextract, and carotenoids.Beta-carotene: the precursor of vitamin A from plantsources and an antioxidant carotenoid. It can also beused as a natural colorant.Beta-Sitosterol: a phytosterol (plant sterol) that hasbeen shown to lower serum cholesterol levels. It isfound in the unsaponifiable portion of oils and fats.Carotenoids: phyto elements that play amajor role in protecting cells and tissues fromsunlight as well as playing a large role asantioxidants in food and in the body.Carotenoids include beta-carotene, lycopene,alpha carotene, lutein, anthaxanthin, andzeaxanthin.Carrier principle: refers to a substance thatcarries another substance; as an example, avegetable oil acting as a carrier for anessential oil. Antonym: active principle.Collagen: One third of the body’s connectivetissue of the skin is made of collagen. Theaging process takes place when the collagenbecomes insoluble and incapable ofabsorbing moisture.Conjugated fatty acids have both cis andtrans configuration naturally, causing oils tobe fuller feeling than the more normal cisconfiguration of fatty acids.Dry oils: oils that contain tannins and have adry feeling on the skin, not an oily feeling.Drying oils: oils containing a significantpercentage of poly unsaturated fatty acids,that oxidize and dry to the touch over time.Emollience: describes substances thatsoften and soothe the skin.Essential Fatty Acids, EFAs: Fats that cannotbe synthesized in the body but must be takeninto the body in the form of food. There aretwo EFAs, linoleic and alpha-Linolenic acidsAlso named vitamin F, which is seldom used.

Essential nutrients: are necessary nutrients,catalysts, and cofactors that must be taken inby the body in foods. This includes thevitamins, minerals, eight amino acids,essential fatty acids, air, sunlight and water.Fatty acids (FAs): long chains of varyingnumbers of carbon atoms with hydrogenatoms connected to most or all of the carbonatoms that make up 90% or more of oil.GLA, gamma-Linolenic acid: made from theessential fatty acid linoleic acid in the body.Necessary for the production of prostaglandins, a hormone-like substance requiredfor healthy functioning of the body. GLA wasoriginally discovered in evening primrose oil,but also found to be particularly high inborage seed oil and black currant seed oils.Linoleic Acid (LA): one of two essential fattyacids that need to be consumed in the diet,an omega 6 fatty acid.Lipids: the saponifiable portion of fats, oils, orwaxes, the fatty acids and triglycerides. Theyare primarily hydrocarbon-like and insolublein water.Long-chained fatty acids: carbon chainlengths from fourteen to eighteen carbonatoms.Medium-chained fatty acids: fatty acid chainswith carbon lengths from eight to twelvecarbon atoms.Monounsaturated: oils that have only onecarbon-to-carbon double bond in the fattyacid chain. MUFA: monounsaturated fattyacid.Nitrilosides: vitamin B-17, from apricotkernels and other plant seeds. They are a partof laetrile therapy.Oil: a term for lipids and non-lipid compoundsproduced by seeds and nuts of the plantworld, and which also includes animal andpetrochemical oils.Oxidation: a process similar to combustionthat happens in the presence of oxygen inbiochemical reactions. In the body, free radicaloxygen molecules cause damage at thecellular level.Oxidative stability: The ability of oil to remainfresh for an extended period of time.Palmitoleic acid omega 7 monounsaturatedfatty acid is important for skin health andbalance. Made by the skin, its productiondiminishes with age so replenishing itexternally is helpful.Phenolic compounds: a class of chemicalcompounds produced by plants andmicroorganisms. that respond toenvironmental conditions, UV radiation,insects, and damaged tissues. Polyphenolsmeans multiple phenols. Phenolic compoundscan also be industrially synthesized.Phospholipids: lipid compounds found inliving cells of animals and plants, which areimportant

Jan 22, 2018 · Ł Carrier oil uses Ł Skin care uses Ł Substitutions Ł Glossary of terms . Fixed/Carrier Oils 22 Oil Profiles w/ Fatty Acid Charts 22 fixed carrier oils A quick guide to 22 fixed/carrier oils for essential oils, making salves and balms and use in skincare. This e-book gives you the