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CulturalHighlightsContentsWhen people think of Iceland,they think of fire and ice.Maybe Eyjafjallajökull too,if they can pronounce it.But that’s only the tip of avery big iceberg.FestivalsIcelanders love festivals, especially duringKatrin Sif Einarsdottirword, útihátíð, to describe outdoorfestivals, since they can only happenaround July or August. Along withCulture day in ReykjavikOverviewthe summer. There’s a special Icelandicpopular music festivals like Þjóðhátíð,celebrated all over the country, butCulture Night, the Reykjavik Art Festival,only really happens on the island ofand the Food and Fun Festival.Vestmannaeyjar, which swells from 4,000Winter festivals are all about feasting.to nearly 20,000 inhabitants the lastweekend of July or the first weekendfor Þórláksmessa just before Christmasof August. There’s been a new songEve to sample fermented skate, or joinwritten for the festival every year sincethe larger community gatherings during1874 and the location – a tiny valley withÞorrablót in January to eat sour food.enormous, volcanic cliffs rising aroundthe natural amphitheater – is unbeatable.MusicIf you’d like a smaller, more localexperience, check out Bakkaferði inbands per capita, and music festivalsBorgafirði eystri for Bræðslan at the endhappen all year long, starting with Aldreiof July or Gæran in Sauðárkrókur in mid-fór ég suður, a free event celebrating theAugust.diversity of Icelandic music, held annuallyWhen útihátíð time has passed, theshow for musicians must still go on.season really kicks off with the SecretReykjavik s biggest music festival of theSolstice music festival on June 21-22,year is the five-day Airwaves festival heldwhen the sun circles the horizon withoutin late October/mid-November. Localsever setting.and tourists alike flock here to see overÞjóðhátið means “Nation’sCelebration,” and is, in theory,200 artists from near and far at dozensOutdoorAdventurein Ísafjörður on Easter weekend. But theVatnajökullNational ParkIceland has one of the highest ratio ofGreaterIcelandTry to get invited to a family gatheringIcelanderslovefestivals,especiallyduring thesummer.There’sa specialIcelandicword,útihátíð, todescribeoutdoorfestivals.Reykjavik& Surroundsother festivals worth a go are Gay Pride,of venues.8

Traditional foodIcelanders are still Vikings at heart.Fish of every variety is at the center ofEven Christian traditions incorporatetraditional Icelandic cuisine: dried fishpagan beliefs – like the 13 yule lads,(harðfiskur), pickled fish (síld), rottenone for every day of Christmas, whoshark (hákarl), and once in a while, somesteal candles, harass sheep, and makewhale (hrefna). Since beer wasn’t legalother types of mischief. Icelandicuntil 1989, Icelanders wash down theirchildren fear the lads’ troll mother,hákarl with Brennivín schnapps, akaGrýla, who sends her devilish cat to eatBlack Death.naughty kids.References to the old Norse GodsThe Þorrablót sour food festival,celebrated since the Viking age, is heldbelieve every rainbow is the Bifröstyear. To find this type of food, look forbridge to Ásgarður, the center of thethe cross-eyed, pink pig logo of Bonus,world and home of the twelve Norsea common supermarket, or try yourgods. Place names from the Norseluck at Kólaportið, the weekend flea-Sagas still exist all over the countryside,market held near Reykjavik s downtownand the four land spirits – the Dragon,harbour. Other traditional foods to tryViking, Bull, and Eagle – still protect theare horse (hestakjöt and folaldakjöt) andfour quarters of Iceland.reindeer.Though Icelanders have a very fun-Craft brews and spiritsto be laughed at. Icelanders really doIf you like local, small-batch microbrewsbelieve in elves and huldufólk (hiddenand craft spirits, you’re in luck. Keeppeople), and say they only revealan eye out for Ölvisholt, Steðji, Kaldi,themselves to a human who trulyGæðingur and Segull 67 craft beers, andbelieves. A highway in Iceland was evenIceland s first-ever single malt whisky,moved because its planned locationFlóki, just released in 2017.GreaterIcelandloving culture, these traditions are notOverviewthe first Friday after January 19th eachReykjavik& Surroundsare everywhere. Icelanders like toThoughIcelandershave a veryfun-lovingculture,thesetraditionsare not tobe laughedat.ContentsFolklorefell on some sacred elf sites.Street foodcountry have a grill and sell a decent,affordable burger and fries. The creamy,old-style ice cream called “gamli ís” isanother staple. But the king of all streetVatnajökullNational ParkNearly all fuel stations around thefoods is no doubt the Icelandic hotdog.any gas station, corner store, or fromIceland’s longest running restaurant andFermented sharkmost iconic food stand – Baejarins BeztuOutdoorAdventureOrder one “with everything” fromin downtown Reykjavik.9

PronunciationGuideThe famous Baejarins beztu in ReykjavikContentsIceland is an isolated country andits language has stayed pure andclose to its roots – it’s the closestyou can get to Old Norse. Todaymany Icelanders speak English,but it’s always nice to be able tosay place names properly, andfun to know appropriate phrasesfor the occasion.means “Thanks for the last time [weor friends one has spent time withMost consonants are pronouncedrecently.similarly to English. Accent marks overThank you can be an informal takkvowels change their sound, usually from(thanks). Takk fyrir mig (thank you forshort to long.me) is more formal, and a must whenstanding up from the table if someonee as in bet, é as in ye in yetCheers!: Skál (pr: scowl)i and y as bin, í and ý as ee in seekYes: Já (pr: yow)o as the a in all, ó as ao in boatNo: Nei (pr:ney)u as u in under, ú as oo in tootHello: Hae (pronounced as the English Hi)æ like i in iceor Hallo.ö like u in furGoodbye: Bless, often said twice.Þ, þ like th in thinPlease is not used as frequently as inÐ, ð like th in thunderEnglish. A request of viltu (will you) givesei, ey like ai in aidethe equivalent of please.ll (double L) pronounced tlExcuse me: Afsakið (pr: Av-sock-ith)J like y in yesWhere is the toilet? Hvar er klósettið?R is rolled(pr:Kvar er kloe-set-tith?)hv pronounced kvHow much does it/that cost? Hvaðf in the middle of a word changes to a vkostar það? (pr:Kvath kostar thath?)VatnajökullNational Parkhas served a meal.GreaterIcelanda as in car, á as ou in shoutReykjavik& SurroundsPronunciationOnecharmingphrase thatdoesn’tseem tohave anequivalentin Englishis Takk fyrirsiðast (pr:tahk fi-rirsee-thast).It means“Thanks forthe last time[we met]”.Overviewmet]” and is used when meeting a friendAccent always on the first syllableUseful Icelandic phrasesoften smaller words strung together, likeOne charming phrase that doesn’t seemEyjafjallajökull. Eyja-fjalla-jökull, island-to have an equivalent in English is Takkmountain-glacier. Break up the words tofyrir siðast (pr: tahk fi-rir see-thast). Itmake them easier to pronounce.OutdoorAdventureLonger words look challenging but are10

Best SideTripsContentsIceland is more than the RingRoad. Equally fascinating andeasily accessible are theseshort side trips that go beyondwaterfalls and geysers.Secret lagoon in FluðirHere is where most of Iceland sproduce comes from. Some of thestrawberries, cucumbers, mushrooms,potatoes, and tomatoes. Fluðir also hasEmily Kyddusually have shops where you can buySecret Lagoon Hot PoolOverviewgreenhouses are open to the public andan old swimming hole (Gamla Lauginreferred to as the “secret lagoon”.reign supreme. There is a ghostThe water’s pleasantly warm and themuseum, an Icelandic folk talessurroundings very natural. This is also amuseum, and a wildlife museum. Whatgreat place to spend the night – thereIcelanders often seek in Stokkseyriare many charming cottages for rent asis the langoustine bisque served inwell as excellent camping facilities withFjöruborðið (The Beach Table). It’s saidfree WiFi.the local fishermen commune withmermaids to get the freshest catch.Time travel to Eyrarbakkitown to get a glimpse of how lifeIn Iceland s Westfjörds is the townwas for Icelanders in the 1800s. Thisof Holmavik, which you could looselycharming seaside village has well-refer to as Iceland s Salem. The townpreserved historical houses making youis famous for Galdrahúsið, a magic andfeel that you ve stepped back in time.witchcraft museum. You are handedDon’t forget to drop by the Þuriðubuða small booklet as you enter. ExhibitsFólk Museum. A completely experientialcan become a tad academic, but haveexhibit, museum attendants oftena go at saying the spells and take adress in period costume.peek at the necropants. Made fromthe skin of dead men, necropants areGhosts of Stokkseyrisaid to generate endless amountsNext to Eyrarbakki is the town ofof money.OutdoorAdventureWicked witches of the westVatnajökullNational ParkIcelanders drive to this South IcelandFluðir alsohas an oldswimminghole (GamlaLaugin orOld Pool)that isincreasinglybeingreferredto as the“secretlagoon.”GreaterIcelandStokkseyri. Here, culture and artReykjavik& Surroundsor Old Pool) that is increasingly being11

exhibit. The collection is a labor oflove and many who visit have a strongreaction to seeing these wonderfulrocks and minerals.Herring adventurein SiglufjörðurJust one hour away from Akureyri isenjoyed a resurgence because of aninflux of capital from a hometown boywho made it big in the United States.Painted in bright primary colors, theand new shops sitting on top of aboardwalk by the harbor. This createdan impetus for other townies to movePopulation 20, this cove has a creepyshop on the main street. Siglufjörðurhistory and is actually where thealso has the largest herring museumwitch era craze started in Iceland.in Europe, chronicling the herringYou can ask for directions to theera in north Iceland. Winters don’tcliff called Kistan (The Coffin) whereslow Siglufjörður down, either. It’sthree sorcerers were burned in 1654a fantastic skiing destination and aby the town sheriff. Stories say thathaven for winter sports enthusiasts.pastry chef who now has a coffeethese sorcerers were responsible formore recent claim to fame: this areaThey say that in the old days, the(near Gjögur airport) was where mostpriest s bedroom on the island ofof the Justice League movie was shot.Grimsey was halfway inside the ArcticCircle. Accessible by air and sea fromOur local expertsshare their picksfor an Icelandsoundtrack.Emilíana Torrini –Jungle DrumOf Monsters andMen – Little TalksSigur Rós –HoppípollaFor a MinorReflection – DansiDansSeabear – I Sing ISwimAkureyri, Grimsey is the only place inIceland where it’s possible to crossSóley – I’ll DrownCollected over an 80-year period byinto the Arctic Circle. The islanders arean Icelandic woman named Petra, thissaid to be partially descended fromOf Monsters andMen – Dirty Pawsimmersive exhibit is in Stöðvarfjörður,trolls – easy to believe since they’reEast Iceland. The constant stream ofa hardy lot. Grimsey also has a largevisitors to her private home forcedpopulation of puffins and otherthe family to formally open a naturesea birds.Svavar Knutur –WanderlustSigur Rós – AllAlrightOutdoorAdventurePetra s stone andmineral collectionFM Belfast –VertigoVatnajökullNational Parkattending mass at Árnes church. AInto the Arctic Circlein Grimseythe scandalous behavior of womenRoad TripPlaylistGreaterIcelandback, including a fantastic New YorkReykjavik& SurroundsScandals and sorcerersof TrékyllisvíOverviewtown now has a five-star hotel, a bar,Contentsthis charming fishing village that hasStories saythat thesesorcererswereresponsiblefor thescandalousbehaviorof womenattendingmass atÁrneschurch.12

ResponsibleTourismtimes. Stick to designated pathsand remember, a photo isn’t worthdying for.Avoid the crowdsThough Iceland is undoubtedlypopular, there are still many locationsthat aren’t yet on the tourist radar.Instead of the Golden Circle, optinstead for the sights of the DiamondCircle in the north, landscapes shapedover millennia by violent eruptions.Worthwhile stops here includehelp lower your impact – includingthe mysterious Hljóðaklettar rocktaking the Iceland Tourism Board’sformations, beautiful Lake Mývatn,Icelandic Pledge.and mighty Dettifoss.OverviewThere are a number of ways toDon’tanswerthe call ofnature, innature. Eventhough alot of thecountryseemsuntamed,Icelandhas indeedtamed theart of publicbathrooms.ContentsThe nature here is likenothing else, and as moreadmirers flock to Iceland’sshores, it’s vitally importantto travel responsibly, helpingto protect and preserve theunique environment we’re allhere to enjoy.aware of what you’re doing at allWant to enjoy Iceland’s hot springs?Escape the hordes at the Blue LagoonIt might be tempting to blast off intoand head to Laugarvatn Fontanathe unknown, but always stick toGeothermal Spa, located within theroads and tracks. If you do wander off,Golden Circle area. The very brave canfragile ecosystems that take centuriesrun down to the nearby lake and jumpto recover could be destroyed in yourin the freezing water before rushingwake. Others might follow in yourback to the warmth of the pools.damage.Avid hikers might be eyeing thepopular Laugavegur Trail, but if youprefer to enjoy nature in solitude, headUse public bathroomswhenever possibleto the protected Hornstrandir natureThis might sound obvious, but it’srewarded with an isolated region fulla serious problem in Iceland. Don’tof spectacular mountains, deep fjords,answer the call of nature, in nature.waterfalls tumbling into the ocean,Even though a lot of the countryand the best chance to spot the elusiveseems untamed, Iceland has indeedarctic fox.reserve in the Westfjords. Hikers areVatnajökullNational Parktamed the art of public bathrooms.GreaterIcelandfootsteps as well, causing even moreReykjavik& SurroundsDon’t venture off-RoadLastly, to avoid the crowds atRespect naturelagoon just before it called FjallsarlonAccept that the Icelandic nature is inwhich sees far less traffic, allowing youcharge here. A lot of it isn’t cordonedto really ponder life as you listen to theoff behind fences or rails, so staysoft, deep cracking of the glaciers.OutdoorAdventureJökulsárlón, there is a smaller glacier13

VisaInformationJust visitingIceland is a signatory of the Schengenagreement, so if you already have avisa for the Schengen region or areContentsa resident/citizen of Schengen s visaexception countries, it is not necessaryto get one. You can stay for 90 daysBerserkjahraunwithout a visa. However, passportsresidence permits, including:the date of departure from Iceland.Au pair: Valid for one year only andGet the full list of countries whosenot renewable or convertible tocitizens don’t need a visa here: http://another residence permit.utl.is/index.php/en/who-does-not-Family reunification: Applies to theneed-a-visa.spouse, cohabiting partner, parentover the age of 67, parent of a minorvisa is necessary. Here is a checklistin Iceland, or minor with a parent inof requirements: http://utl.is/index.Iceland. The closest family memberphp/en/application-basic-requirement.must be an Icelandic or ScandinavianExcept for Beijing and Moscow,citizen, or a foreign citizen withIcelandic embassies do not accept visaa permanent residence permit inapplications.Iceland.coming to Iceland based on a shortageGetting into the country withof workers, those who are athletesintentions of staying and working canof exceptional talent, or are qualifiedbe difficult, depending on your answerprofessionals with contracts. This typeto these questions:hinges on employer sponsorship. Are you a citizen or a permanentStudents: Applies to those whoresident of an EU or EEA country? Do you have a specialized skill that analready have an acceptance letterfrom an accredited IcelandicIcelander or EU/EEA citizen does notuniversity, an exchange student, orhave?someone who is doing an internship aspart of his/her studies.Iceland without too much trouble. IfVolunteers: Those with provenyou answered “NO” to both, there is arelationships with charities and non-longer road ahead.government organizations may applyThere are several categories ofOutdoorAdventureA “YES” means you can move toVatnajökullNational ParkLooking to stayGreaterIcelandWork-based: Given to those who areReykjavik& SurroundsIf your country is not on the list, aGetting intothe countrywithintentionsof stayingand workingcan bedifficult.Overviewmust be valid for three months overfor this permit.14

ContentsOverviewReykjavik& SurroundsHHVatnajökullNational ParkSOutdoorAdventuremall in size but large in personality,Reykjavik packs a plethora of interestingsights, renowned restaurants, and hoppingnightspots into a few walkable districts. And youdon’t need to go far from town to experienceIceland’s natural wonders, from geysers and hotsprings to glaciers and waterfalls.GreaterIcelandREYKJAVIKand Surrounds15

REYKJAVIK AND SURROUNDSReykjavikMust See& DoContentsOverviewThe world’s northernmostcapital, Reykjavik, is a colorfuland bustling waterfront city.Compact and walkable, itnonetheless warrants twoto three days of explorationto really get under its skinand uncover its culture –rich, creative, friendly, andeffortlessly cool.Downtown Reykjavik101of Reykjavik, where an exciting meshHostels, hotels and guesthousesof sights, culture, and cuisine comeabound throughout the city, but there’stogether to create one of the coolestnowhere cooler than Kex, a biscuitcapital cities in the world. Laugavegur isfactory turned hostel/bar/eatery. Enjoythe main drag, turning into Bankastrætithe beautifully-designed interior, liveand eventually Austurstræti, wheremusic, great food, and an even betteryou’ll find the old town and seat oflocation. Prices for a bed in a dormgovernment. Join one of the freeroom start at kr. 2,100 (US 20) a night.walking tours to learn about the historyof this remarkable city.Where to eatNo trip toReykjavikis completewithouttrying a hotdog fromBæjarinsBeztuPylsur.GreaterIcelandWhere to stayReykjavik& SurroundsThe 101 district is the beating heartFor a delicious and hearty breakfast,loaded with charm. No trip to Reykjavikis complete without trying a hot dogfrom Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, and dinnerat the elegant Matur og Drykkur willVatnajökullNational ParkBergsson Mathús in the old town isbe an experience you’ll never forget –Where to shopHotdogs from Baejarins beztuTo acquire an authentic IcelandicOutdoorAdventureespecially if you order the cod’s head.lopapeysa, the Handknitting16

REYKJAVIK AND SURROUNDS105Cross over the threshold of Hlemmur,and you’ve entered 105. This spaciousneighborhood might seem quiet andresidential on the outside, but thereare a few spots worth checking out.First, head into Hlemmur Mathöll,a newly-developed food hall

Traveling in Iceland is easy and safe, and as the country becomes even more popular, there are an increasing number of options for accommodation and transport, from no-frills to ultra-luxe. No matter what you choose, you’ll travel among some of the most stunning landscapes in the world – and many that look like another planet altogether.