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701157 - Everest-6 Cover - 29/3/18 9:59 am Page 1TRAILBLAZERKalaPattarGokyoADVENTURE TRAVEL‘Recommended’SimigoanWANDERLUSTRanging from lush terraced fields tothe highest mountain on earth, thescenery in the Everest region isbreathtaking. Arranging a trek isnot difficult and there are trekkingpossibilities to suit all budgets.Jirio Information for all budgetso Visas, permits and feeso What to take – the best gearo Main trekking peaks – routes fortrekking peaks and passes of5700m (18,700ft) and overo Kathmandu guide – hotels, restaurants, sights, trek preparationso Health and safety – avoidingaltitude sickness & staying healthyo Background information andAmaDablam MakaluNamcheLuklaMeraJunbesiPhapluN E PA LTIBETPokharaMt EverestKathmanduINDIAo All styles of trekking – indepen-dent teahouse trekking, porterguided treks and fully guided treksMt Everest8848mIsland PeakTIBET‘The pick of the guides to the area’0010 milesTumlingtar20kmSixth edition of this long-runningpractical guide – 27 detailed routemaps, 63 village plans and traildescriptions covering not only theclassic treks but also the wild routes:Lukla to Namche and aroundKala Pattar & Everest Base CampThe Gokyo trekKongma La, Tsho La, Renjo LaStarting from Phaplu-Taksindu,Junbesi or Bhandar Salpa-Arun to the Khumbu Trekking peaks – Mera, Island PeakAmphu Labsta, Lobuche East Trekking in the Everest Region6EDNTREKKING IN THEEverestREGIONincludes KATHMANDU CITY GUIDEJAMIE McGUINNESSwww.trailblazer-guides.comEverest history52195 DISTRIBUTED IN UK & IRELAND BYTHE TRAVEL ALLIANCE % 01225 406440Price in UKUK 15.99Price in USAUS 21.956DISTRIBUTED IN USA BY NBN% 1-800-462-6420 www.nbnbooks.comISBN 978-1-905864-81-2EDN9 781905 8648126theditionJob: 701157 Title: Everest 6DTP: FF Page: cvr
JAMIE MCGUINNESS has trekked in the Everest region more than 25 times andhas summited Everest itself five times. He manages Project Himalaya (: projecthimalaya.com) and treks and climbs for much of the year, spending the rest ofthe time planning the next adventure. His favourite pastime is exploring remotecorners of the Himalaya with friends and a camera.In Jamie’s words: ‘Nepal has given me my greatest adventures, and theEverest region will always be close to my heart. I am filled with memories of contemplating in awe the stupendous views from the tops of the high passes, and ofevenings spent in lodge kitchens, enjoying philosophical banter around potbellystoves. The Everest region is the best teahouse trekking region there is and thelodges give you an unparalleled freedom to explore independently. It is the peacetrekking brings that draws me back; an escape from the frenetic modern world’.Author701157 - Ev-6 00 pp1-28 colour-Q9 Prelims Template 29/3/18 9:43 am Page 1Job: 701157 Title: Everest 6DTP: FF Page: 1
701157 - Ev-6 00 pp1-28 colour-Q9 Prelims Template 29/3/18 9:43 am Page 2Trekking in the Everest RegionFirst edition: 1993; this sixth edition: 2018Publisher Trailblazer Publications: trailblazer-guides.comThe Old Manse, Tower Rd, Hindhead, Surrey, GU26 6SU, UKBritish Library Cataloguing in Publication DataA catalogue record for this book is available from the British LibraryISBN 978-1-905864-81-2 Jamie McGuinness 1993, 1996, 1998, 2002, 2009, 2018Text, maps and photographs (unless otherwise credited)The right of Jamie McGuinness to be identified as the author of this work has beenasserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988Editors: Nicky Slade & Daniel McCrohanSeries editor: Bryn ThomasTypesetting: Nicky SladeLayout: Daniel McCrohan & Bryn ThomasProofreading & index: Daniel McCrohanAll rights reserved. Other than brief extracts for the purposes of review no part ofthis publication may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of thepublisher and copyright owners.WARNING: mountain walking can be dangerousPlease read the notes on when to trek (pp63-8), health and AMS (p10, pp37-9, pp78-81and pp280-97). Every effort has been made by the authors and publisher to ensure thatthe information contained herein is as accurate and up to date as possible. However, theyare unable to accept responsibility for any inconvenience, loss or injury sustained byanyone as a result of the advice and information given in this guide.A REQUESTThe author and publisher have tried to ensure that this guide is as accurate as possible.Nevertheless, things change. If you notice any changes or omissions, please write toTrailblazer (address above) or email us at : info@trailblazer-guides.com orjamie@project-himalaya.com. A free copy of the next edition will be sent topersons making a significant contribution.Updated information will be available on: : www.trailblazer-guides.comPhotos – Front cover: Everest (8848m/29,028ft) is the darker peak in the centre;seen from above Gorak Shep. This page: Everest from Kala PattarOverleaf: Crossing the Tsho/Cho La (5420m/17,782ft)Print production by D’Print (% 65-6581 3832), Singapore; printed in ChinaJob: 701157 Title: Everest 6DTP: FF Page: 2
701157 - Ev-6 00 pp1-28 colour-Q9 Prelims Template 29/3/18 9:43 am Page 4INTRODUCTION7PPART 1: PLANNING YOUR TRIPUHow long to go for 36NNTrekking styles and agenciesTeahouse trekking 29 – Expedition-style 34 – Trekking agencies 34Trek route discussions 37Route options & itinerariesEverest Base Camp (EBC) 39 – Gokyo 43 – EBC & Gokyo 44Everest Three Passes 45 – Phaplu-Taksindu start 47 – Junbesi start48 – Phaplu-Taksindu finish 48 – Bhandar start 48 – Salpa-Arunfrom Tumlingtar 50 – Other options 51 – Other activities 52 –Trekking Peaks & mountaineering passes 54Budgeting 61When to trek 63What to take 68Pre-trip health precautions and inoculations 78PART 2: NEPALFacts about the countryGeographical background 82 – Climate 83 – Historical outline 84 –Economy 92 – Development 93 – Religion 95Practical information for the visitorVisas 98 – Transport 100 – Money 102 – Holidays & festivals 103 –Food 105 – Things to buy 106 – Security 107PART 3: KATHMANDUHistory 109 – Arrival & departure 111 – Orientation 111 – Where tostay 112 – Where to eat 121 – Services 124 – What to see and do126 – Getting to the Khumbu 129ContentsPART 4: THE EVEREST REGIONMountaineering history 131The people 146National parks 152Facilities for the trekker 153TLTNPPATNTEKGBK2PSTJ2PI2AABCDIMinimum impact trekkingEnvironmental concerns 158 – Cultural 160 – Economic 161Job: 701157 Title: Everest 6DTP: FF Page: 4O
–ooEverest 6FF Page: 4PART 5: ROUTE GUIDE & MAPSUsing this guide 163Trekking from LuklaLukla 167 – Lukla to Namche 169Namche and aroundNamche 177 – Around Namche 181 – Namche to Thame 185To Lobuche and Kala PattarNamche to Tyangboche 189 – Tyangboche 191 – Tyangboche toPheriche/Dingboche 193 – Dingboche to Chukhung 199 –Pheriche/Dingboche to Lobuche 203 – Lobuche to Gorak Shep 206 –Ascending Kala Pattar 207 – Heading down 209To Gokyo and aroundNamche to Gokyo 210 – Gokyo 215 – Around Gokyo 217To and from Phortse 219 – Gokyo to Lobuche via Tsho La 221Everest Three PassesKongma La, Chukhung to Lobuche 223 – Tsho La, Lobuche toGokyo 224 – Renjo La 228Bhandar & Taksindu to Cheplung-LuklaKathmandu to Bhandar 230 – Shivalaya to Bhandar 232 – Junbesi238 – Junbesi to Taksindu 239 – Bupsa to Surke 244 – Starting fromPhaplu 247Salpa-Arun to the KhumbuTumlingtar 249 – Tumlingtar to Balawa Besi 250 – Balawa Besi toJau Bari 252 – Thulo Fokte to Sanam 254 – Sanam to Najing Dingma256 – Gai Kharka to Puiyan 260PART 6: TREKKING PEAKSIntroduction 263 – Imja Tse (Island Peak) 264 – Lobuche East Peak267 – Mera Peak 267 – Amphu Labtsa 278APPENDICESA: Health 280B: Flora and fauna 298C: Nepali words and phrases 300D: Glossary 302 – Map key 303 – Boxed text index 304INDEX305OVERVIEW MAPS310Contentstn–701157 - Ev-6 00 pp1-28 colour-Q9 Prelims Template 29/3/18 9:43 am Page 5Job: 701157 Title: Everest 6DTP: FF Page: 5
701157 - Ev-6 00 pp1-28 colour-Q9 Prelims Template 29/3/18 9:43 am Page 6ABOUT THIS BOOKThere are a couple of philosophies that have always guided this book. First,I don’t recommend lodges but, instead, I merely list them. Some people judgetheir accommodation by the cleanliness of the toilet, others by the cosinessof the kitchen but the bottom line is, I know of so few bad lodges that choosing to recommend one over another is both unfair and perhaps unhelpful too.Second, my goal was to cover virtually every route and track in the regionso that you have the choice of where to go, because I feel that the availabilityof information (or lack of it) should not be a limiting factor. This was partlybecause I wished to write for everyone, from the first-time visitor to theNepalophile. (I have constantly been surprised at the number of regulars I meetyear after year in the hills). By covering the entire region, it was also my hopeto spread trekkers to equally deserving areas. Perhaps, like 90% of trekkers,you’ll still stick to the main routes – but at least that choice is yours.For this edition I spent a refreshing two months trekking and climbing.Every paragraph and every map has been reviewed and the route guide refocused on a set of popular trek itineraries.About this bookACKNOWLEDGEMENTSI thank the people of the Khumbu for two decades of their sincere hospitalityand for sharing their considered opinions on so many matters, especially Natangand Pemba of Moonlight Lodge for a home away from home, Mingma Yangjeeof Snow Lion, Dingboche, Chindi of Chukhung resort, Pasang of Buddha lodge,Gorak Shep, Kunga and Tsering Lhakpa of Thuklha-Dingboche. For generoustrekking peak info, I thank Chewang Palden Sherpa and Lhakpa Dorje Sherpa,and the always passionate Rolwaling guides. Parts 2 and 3 are the combinedeffort of Anagha Neelakantan, Jamie McGuinness and building on several otherauthors’ work. At Trailblazer, thanks to Nicky Slade, Nick Hill, DanielMcCrohan and, of course, the ever helpful and forgiving Bryn Thomas. Alongthe trails in the Khumbu there are so many people that I’d like to thank by namebut, alas, most are more easily recalled by their smiles and helpfulness.While I am constantly surprised by the courtesy and warmth of the Nepalipeople in general, and of the majority of government officials I have met, I canonly hope that the more faceless side of the government and bureaucracy doesn’t destroy the country before they act on the long-known realisation that politicisation and corruption are the root of Nepal’s current problems. WarningAll outdoor activities involve an element of risk, which could endangeryou and those with you. It is impossible for any guidebook to alert you toevery possible danger, or to anticipate the limitations of your party. Thedescriptions of trails, routes and geographical features in this guide aretherefore not in any way a guarantee that they will be safe for you or yourparty. When you follow the advice and/or route information in this bookyou do so at your own risk and assume responsibility for your own safety.Ensuring that you are aware of all relevant factors and exercisinggood field-craft combined with common sense is the best way to enjoythe mountains. If you feel unsure about your skill level, experience orknowledge base you should not assume responsibility for yourself or anyone else. Nepal’s political situation is changeable and could affect yourplans. Keep abreast of all developments and check government and relevant agency websites. You assume the risk of your travels and the responsibility for those with you. Be safe, be prepared, be informed.Job: 701157 Title: Everest 6DTP: FF Page: 6TttwgioaltTmstosbttc(p
.-yge,s,drlgein-Everest 6FF Page: 6INTRODUCTIONThe Solu-Khumbu region of Nepal has been a magnet for mountaineers, adventurers and travellers since its opening to foreigners inthe 1950s – and with good reason. While Everest is the draw, evenwithout Everest, the gorEven without Everest, thegeous peaks and good facilgorgeous peaks and goodities would still offer some facilities would still offer someof the best alpine trekkingof the best alpine trekking andand mountaineering.mountaineeringPassing through populated areas, a trek in Nepal is very different from a wilderness hike inthe USA or New Zealand, or a randonnée route in the European Alps.The hills in Nepal are the life and soul of diverse ethnic groups, themost famous of which are the hospitable Sherpa people. What furthersets trekking in Nepal apart is the low cost and the ease with which atrek can be arranged. There can be few countries where you can setoff to walk for several weeks carrying no food or shelter, yet be 100%sure that every day you willTeahouse trekking, trekkingbe able to find these essenfrom lodge to lodge, istials, and on a budget of lessNepal’s specialitythan US 40 a day.Teahouse trekking, trekking from lodge to lodge, is Nepal’s speciality and the main areas of Everest, Annapurna and Langtang have(Above): Teahouse trekking is hiking from lodge to lodge. They’re all independently run and have informal restaurants and simple bedrooms.Introduction,es.nyyete,701157 - Ev-6 00 pp1-28 colour-Q9 Prelims Template 4/2/18 2:09 PM Page 7Job: 701157 Title: Everest 6DTP: FF Page: 7
701157 - Ev-6 00 pp1-28 colour-Q9 Prelims Template 29/3/18 9:43 am Page 8I N T R O D U C T I O N8 Introductionbeen joined by the Manaslu Circuit and Upper Mustang. A couple more, theKanchenjunga and Makalu regions, are in the developing stage leaving onlyremote Dolpo without lodges. The Annapurna region, north of Pokhara, offersa greater range of terrain and cultures and treks from a couple of days to a couple of weeks, but is being drastically changed by roads. Reminiscent of theAnnapurna Circuit a decade or two ago, the Manaslu Circuit that partly circlesthe range has become very popuRediscover simple pleasures likelar during peak season. Thethe enduring glow of a sunset, theLangtang region, north ofmagic of flickering flames and theKathmandu, offers treks of up tobliss of sleep to soothe naturallytwo weeks and is slowly recoverexe
Mt Everest 8848m Island Peak Sixth edition of this long-running practical guide – 27 detailed route maps, 63 village plans and trail descriptions covering not only the classic treks but also the wild routes: Lukla to Namche and around Kala Pattar & Everest Base Camp The Gokyo trek Kongma La, Tsho La, Renjo La Starting from Phaplu-Taksindu, Junbesi or Bhandar Salpa-Arun to the Khumbu Trekking .
