Transcription
B E AUT YBETS
John Lewis presents.10 beauty bets for the year ahead.W E LC O M EWelcome to the inaugural John Lewis Beauty Bets,our report outlining the 10 key trend predictions acrossskincare, make-up, hair, fragrance and wellness forthe next 12 months. We have combined detailedcustomer insight with the opinions from our teamof expert beauty buyers to predict our big bets trends that will shape beauty movements, bring newbrands to the forefront and, most importantly,will be on our customers’ minds.But, before we look forward, a quick reflection on the present It’s something of anunderstatement to say that 2020has been a big year for beauty.In light of the global pandemic,we’ve seen customer behavioursalter, unexpected trends arise andinnovation come to the forefrontto cater to our shifting lifestyle.Over the past decade wehave established ourselves asthe trusted destination for allthings beauty. We have over40 stores and a thriving onlinebusiness, stocking 190 brandsfrom well known powerhousesto emerging labels.Dedicated to showcasingnewness and innovation, as wellas championing the brands weknow our customers love,2020 saw the introduction of27 brands to our roster, includingKate Somerville and Sunday Riley,and the launch of two specialisthubs: the Tech Shop and theWellness Edit - all responding tothe changing needs and lifestylesof our customers.As the world went online wehosted our first ever Virtual MyJohn Lewis Beauty Weekendin July. Featuring a stellar lineup of industry experts and 17masterclasses, tickets sold outin 24 hours. Our second VirtualBeauty Weekend of 2020 tookplace in October and saw over7,000 tickets sold.We were also proud to relaunchthe BeautyCycle scheme earlierin the year, making us the firstUK retailer to launch a recyclinginitiative on a national scale.Offering 5 back for every fiveempties recycled, it’s been hugelypopular with more than 15,000customers recycling with us,saving over 75,000 products fromlandfill - as we work together toput sustainability at the forefront.Without further ado, hereare our 10 bets for the yearahead as predicted by theJohn Lewis team of expertbeauty buyers. Amelia Kendrick,buyer for Emerging Beauty,Joe Coggrave, buyer for Skincareand Fragrance and LaurieCilberto, buyer for Make-up.We hope you find the reportuseful and insightful for bothyourself and your readers.Thank you for all your supportthis year and wishing you a happyand healthy 2021 as we look tothe future.THE JOHN LEWISC O M M U N I C AT I O N S T E A MThough the wider world maylook a little uncertain over thenext 12 months, what we canguarantee are many more excitingand innovative developments forJohn Lewis beauty.J O H N L E W I S & PA RT N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O RT
Beauty will become a totally holistic experience aswellbeing becomes permanently part of the beautyjourney. Every product will need to make you bothlook good and feel good - we call this the 360 beautyexperience, inner and outer beauty combined.We believe our customers will prioritise three keyareas in 2021:INNER BE AUT YB E AUT YGOES 360REL A X AND DE-STRESS2021 will see John Lewis becomea destination for this full holisticbeauty journey. Our onlinewellness concept, will continueto become a hub for specialistproducts and expertise. As anintegral part of this, we havepartnered exclusively with NewYork-based wellness specialistsStandard Dose on a curatedcollection of carefully vettedplant-based products. We havealready launched with cult brandsincluding Hora, Nature of Thingsand The Good Patch - and havemany more to come.Once taboo, the importance oftaking a step back to de-stressand unwind has come to theforefront as the wider discussionaround self-care continues toopen up. With many elementsof life feeling uncertain as wehead towards the new year,we know these will remainkey wellbeing concerns forcustomers. We’ve seen an uptickin demand for products designedto calm and relax, includingAromatherapy Associates whichhas seen huge growth in 2020- we are backing their UltimateSLEEP AIDSMoments Collection as one of2021’s biggest sellers. With selfSleep has become a primarycare and relaxation properties,wellness concern with 1 in 4 ofwe will also see CBD productsus having found getting thosebecome more accessibleprecious 8 hours even morewith new formulations beingchallenging than normal duringintroduced across our productlockdown (Economic and Social‘As we move into the new year,ranges.ThoughCBDisalreadyResearch Council). Earlier thisbeauty takes on an increasinglyprevalent within the UK market,year we launched a numberholistic approach. With the2020 has been the year we’veof brands in our new onlinepandemic ensuring physical andseen customers feel ready towellness concept to supportmental health will continue to beembracethetrendinearnest.sleep and predict they are set tomain priorities in 2021, we areremain popular as we move into We have introduced brandsseeing the consumer demandthe next 12 months. Sleep sprays including Plant People, Flora more from their beauty products;BastandWildflowerwhoallwill play a particularly importantnot only must they make youofferCBDincustomerfriendlyrole with calming formulas fromlook good, they need to makeNeom and This Works predicted formats for relief on the go.you feel good too - It’s aboutto continue to be best sellers.the 360 experience.’Inner Beauty: Forecast tocurrently be worth 494million (Mintel), we are seeinga significant increase in interestfor beauty supplements ascustomers reach for ways toaddress inside-out wellbeing.Plant-based supplements willboom in 2021 to support beautyfrom within as well as offeringskin benefits such as hydrationand elasticity. We are backingcult Australian brand The BeautyChef as a bestseller over thenext 12 months.AMELIA KENDRICKBeauty Buyer for Emerging BeautyJ O H N L E W I S & PA RT N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O RT
2020 has seen a re-evaluation of priorities inbeauty; with many of us leading more of an athome lifestyle, we saw overly complex make-upbecome less of a focus as customers chose toallocate ‘me time’ to extended skincare routinesinstead. One in five British women spend longeron their skincare routine since the beginningof lockdown (Mintel), and with social planscontinuing to be limited, we predict that aconsidered approach to make-up will continueinto 2021.This new mood for minimalism,coupled with an ongoing strongcustomer desire to reducewaste, will see cosmetic bagscontain smart kits featuringhardworking essentials: a lightbase or tinted moisturiser, lipbalm or tint (which are alreadysoaring at 122%), a glow-givingcheek product and lengthening,natural-look mascara. Expansivetool sets will be replaced bya considered edit of do-it-allbrushes or cushions, and we’ll seemore finger-tip application givinga softer finish.MAKE-UPB AG S G E TWith mask wearing likely to beessential for the months ahead,we also predict that customerswill turn to bases that includeskincare benefits to supportwith ‘Maskne’ and other sideeffects. We will see bothcult and established brandslaunching an expanded offeringof multi-purpose products toaid customers in their quest fora more streamlined approachthat cuts down on packingwastage, but also encourageshealthy skin. Think multifunctional serums (already up 168%), moisturisers that alsoprime and offer SPF, baseswith key ingredients such asVitamin C, lip/skincare hybridsand two-in-one eyeshadow/highlighting sticks. Nars’Multiple, Charlotte TilburyColour Chameleon andBobbi Brown Pot Rouge arealready strong performers,and we have some veryexciting new launches thatplay to this space comingover the next 12 months.SMALLERJ O H N L E W I S & PA RT N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O RT
Historically a little-spoken-about topic,the next 12 months will see menopausebrought into the spotlight as conversationaround it significantly increases andnegative connotations are shaken off.We have already seen greatstrides into this trend thanksto a host of platforms, booksand celebrities raising awarenessaround menopause fromGwyneth Paltrow to MegMathews MegsMenopauseplatform and Sam Baker’sThe Shift.In response to this, we anticipatethe menopause beauty marketwill significantly grow, offeringproducts to address wellnessand cosmetic concerns; thinkwellness-boosting supplements,cooling sprays and facialhair removers.We have already seen productsspeaking to the menopauseprove popular such as theDermaflash Luxe Anti-ageingExfoliating & Peach Fuzz Removaldevice and the AnatomeMenosupport Renewalsupplement, which have beenamong our best sellers. We havealso hosted two virtual beautymasterclasses based around thetopic of menopause, which sawincredible attendance and hascontinued to be one of our mostrequested virtual event topics.A key concern within our beautycustomers, this will be an areaof focus for John Lewis as wemake our beauty offering aplace of positive communityand conversation.M E N O PA U S EBECOMESMAINSTREAMJ O H N L E W I S & PA RT N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O RT
WE’LLWA K E U PTO H A I RWELLNESS4,000 Olaplex has beena runaway success withover 4,000 bottles sold(or enough to fill 5.2bathtubs sold) to date.Our haircare routines used to consist of asimple shampoo and condition, perhapswith a Sunday evening hair mask thrownin for good measure. However, this is setto be dialled up as hair wellness becomesa key trend over the next 12 months.Already an establishedmovement in the US,we are seeing the idea of hairwellness grow within the UKmarket as signs of damagedhair, such as thinning and brittletexture, are increasingly linkedto the appearance of ageing.As one of our customers’biggest haircare concerns,we are seeing demand forproducts that thicken andreplenish the hair, restoringits natural bounce and glow.Launched into John Lewisin August, salon-led brandOlaplex, which is renownedfor its repairing formulas,has been a runaway successwith over 4,000 bottles sold(or enough to fill 5.2 bathtubssold) to date.J O H N L E W I S & PA RT N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O RTAs part of this movementwe will also see scalp scrubs,serums and deep cleansers,which shift product build-upand promote stronger andhealthy looking hair becomeintegral to our weekly haircareroutine. These will includeingredients typically used inskincare, such as hyaluronicacid, as we begin to considerthe scalp as an extension ofour face.As well as introducing newproducts to our offering, wepredict continued strong salesof Aveda which, famous fora healthy scalp ethos, haveboomed over the past year.
While the trend for ‘flawless’complexions that appear as porelessand smooth as an Instagram filterhas dominated the past few years,2021 will see an about change as wemove towards a more natural look.Skin takes centre stage as full-face makeup declines, and we celebrate individualcharacteristics and ‘imperfections’.Speaking to a customer desirefor quicker, low-maintenanceWFH (Work from Home)make-up routines, this also tapsinto a wider cultural mood forinclusivity and diversity.Lightweight bases offering afresh, sheer finish will becomemake-up bag staples. This yearwe’ve already seen a strongdemand for tinted moisturisers,with online sales up by 81%.Laura Mercier’s signatureTinted Moisturiser is our bestseller, having sold a whopping550,000ml this year.THEU N F I LT E R E DFAC EWe will also see formulasdevelop to include skinbenefitting ingredients toenhance the appearanceof a natural complexion.Estée Lauder is leading thecharge in this area with thenew Futurist Hydra RescueMoisturising Make-up, whichfeatures probiotic technology,Ion-charged water complexand chia-seed extract tohydrate, plump and evenskin tone.Laura Mercier is also playingto this space with thePure Canvas Primer collectionwhich is infused withingredients including vitaminC and E, olive oil extract andmicroalgae to improve thelook of skin over time.To complement this naturallook, we will also see subtleglow-enhancers prove popular.We predict strong sales ofhighlighters, blushers andbronzers from brands suchas Hourglass, NARS andCharlotte Tilbury. Throughoutlockdown, bronzers provedpopular with sales 147%.In addition, the pristineInsta-brow will be replacedby a fluffier, bushier look.Having seen strong sales sincelaunch, we are backingBenefit Brow Microfiling Pen– which mimics natural hairgrowth to create the illusionof full, natural brows – to bea big seller for 2021.J O H N L E W I S & PA R T N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O R THaving seen strong salessince launch, we arebacking Benefit BrowMicrofiling Pen – whichmimics natural hairgrowth to create theillusion of full, naturalbrows – to be a bigseller for 2021.
HOMEF R AG R A N C EZO N I N GWILL BOOM‘With our homes having become not just our livingspaces but also our offices, gyms, schools andrestaurants, never has it been more important tomake them feel as comfortable and desirable aspossible. It is for this reason home fragrances aregoing to be an important category into next yearand beyond.’J O E C O G G R AV EBeauty Buyer for Skincare and FragranceFrom living room sprays todesk-top candles and bedsidediffusers, customers havebeen reaching for ways to filltheir homes with elevatingscent. The UK home fragrancemarket saw a boom at thebeginning of lockdown withUK sales of room freshenersup 37% YOY (NPD).John Lewis has seen thistrend continue with onlinesearches for candles up 182%YOY and reed diffusers up 1017% YOY.Taking inspiration from theidea of a perfume wardrobe,we’re seeing fragrance zoningemerge as a trend to createmoments and moods throughoutthe at-home day: a refreshingpeppermint spray in the morning,an energising citrus candle postlunch and a relaxing lavenderscent for evening.Key players in this category forus are Diptyque, Le Labo andJo Malone – the latter’s signatureLime, Basil & Mandarin diffuserhas been particularly popularwith customers and continuesto be a bestseller. We alsoexpect Neom to have a verygood season thanks to its rangeof mood-focused diffusers,sprays and candles.1,017% reed diffusers up 1017% YOYJ O H N L E W I S & PA RT N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O RT
T H E AG E O FD I S C O V E RYE D U C AT I O NA N D E X P E R I M E N TAT I O NDuring this past yearwe have all likely spentmore time looking atour faces on a screenthan ever before, andas we zoomed our waythrough the day, interestin beauty increased.Throughout our VirtualBeauty Events, ourcustomers have told usthat the more screentime they’ve had, themore time they'vehad to educate andexperiment too - wepredict this will continuebut in new forms.The joy of the beauty hall liesin the ability to discover newbrands, trial out textures, testcolours and sample scents tofind your next beauty favourite.However, current restrictionsin shops have meant that thetraditional mode of testing is, inmany cases, no longer possible.As such the beauty industry ishaving to adapt, and for 2021 wewill see this done through beautyboxes, discovery sets, travelminiatures and virtual eventing.Presenting customers with acurated edit of products, and ata lower price point than full-sizedversions offers a personalisedand risk-free way to test. Wehave already seen this idea provepopular; the Discovery BeautyBox, which included 14 skin,hair and body products whenmy John Lewis members spent 100 on beauty online, sold outin six hours when it launchedearlier this year. We have alsoexperienced a record year forthe John Lewis Beauty Adventcalendar. Launched on the 1stOctober, and offering over 375worth of product for 150, it hasbeen our fastest selling in history.J O H N L E W I S & PA R T N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O R TWith a shift from physical tovirtual eventing in 2020, we'veseen customers across the UKjoin masterclasses and talks toeducate themselves on all thingsbeauty and giving them accessto leading industry experts. For2021, we expect interest in thisarea to boom as customersseek to deepen their beautyknowledge and continue to wantto try and test at home. As partof our future John Lewis VirtualBeauty Series events we areintroducing discovery boxes withmasterclasses so that customerscan follow along and experiencethe products first hand.We will also see this mechanismfor discovery encouragecustomers to test out new andniche brands, expanding theirbeauty repertoire beyond triedand tested favourites. We haveidentified emerging brands as akey area of growth within thebeauty market over the past 18months, and will be incorporatingthem into the heart of the JohnLewis beauty offering. We havealready seen huge success withthe launch of Sunday Riley andexpect Kate Somerville, whichlaunched at the beginning ofOctober, to follow suit.
BUYBETTERBUYFEWER,Buy fewer, buy better will be the beauty mantrafor 2021. Customers will purchase a reducedamount of products, however those they doadd to their baskets will have a higher price pointas they reach for premium quality products thatlast and perform.Within skincare, we have seenstrong sales of products frompremium brands including Sisley,Elemis and Estee Lauder.One of our best performingproducts is Sisley’s SisleyaL'integral Anti-Ageing Eye AndThis is down to two customerLip Contour Cream, 15ml, whichethoses working in tandem, theretails for a not insignificantfirst being a sustainable mindset. 150. Introduced to the JohnAs the awareness of the impactLewis line-up in the first half ofSecondly, we are seeing aexcess consumption has on the2020, Sunday Riley’s cult C.E.O.mood for self-gifting pervade asplanet continues to rise (thanksGlow Vitamin C and Turmericcustomers reach for a pick-me-up face oil, which retails for 68in part to documentaries suchpurchase that has luxe-factor but for 35ml, has been a bestselleras David Attenborough’s A Lifeis still attainable. While a Chanel since March.on Our Planet) we are seeinghandbag might be out of reacha strong customer desire tofor many, a Chanel bronzer,We are also seeing this trendpurchase more responsibly.at 40, is far more accessible.within the perfume category.This has been a massiveCreed Aventus Eau de Parfum,movement within the fashionwhich retails for 280 for 100mlindustry and is now tippingcontinues to be our bestsellerinto beauty.this year. In addition, we haveseen sales of Maison FrancisKurkdjian fragrances ( 40- 630)soar over the last six months.As customers reach forinvestment perfumes with all-daylasting power, we predict 2021’sbest performing fragrances willcontinue to be at the premiumend of the price spectrum.‘Chanel’s iconic Soleil cream bronzer hasIn 2020, John Lewis sawcustomers spending an averageof 6.2% more per beauty item,with visit value also increasing by6.6% as customers invested inmore premium products.We’ve already seen a hugeuptake of our BeautyCyclerecycling scheme which launchedin 2019, and allows customers todispose of their beauty packagingin a planet-friendly way. Sincelaunching the scheme John Lewiscustomers have recycled over175,000 products to divert themfrom landfill.been one of our biggest selling productsin the make-up category in 2020, withenough sold to fill 17,000 2.55 bags.’L AU R I E C I L B E RTOBeauty Buyer for Make UpJ O H N L E W I S & PA RT N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O RT
SKINCAREGETSSERIOUSOver the next 12 months, we will see powerful andproven performative skincare dominate as customersincreasingly reach for high-performing products fromboth heritage and discovery brands that offer visibleresults. Ingredients will be at the forefront as customersbecome experts - Vitamin A and C will be on theirminds and they will expect results.This is down to a combinationof factors; customers are seekingways to get professional resultsat home and an increase inonline education is enablingthe customer to use powerfulactive ingredients and innovativetechnology with confidence.This is a trend we have seengain momentum in 2020 withproducts including vitamin Cseeing a huge uplift at 248%.Sales of technical brand SundayRiley have exceeded our forecastsince it was launched in Februarywith the C.E.O Vitamin C andTurmeric Glow serum provingparticularly popular. We arepredicting similar success levelsfor Kate Somerville, which wasintroduced into our skincareroster in October. Catering tothis demand, we will also beexpanding our offering ofDr-led and performance skincarethis autumn.We will also see traditionalbrands that play to the spacecontinue to prove popular,particularly our big three: Clarins,Clinique and Estée Lauder.These brands saw a significantuptick during lockdown ascustomers reached for thosetried and tested products theyknow deliver. Estée Lauder’sAdvanced Night RepairSynchronized Multi-RecoveryComplex, which has beenreformulated to include exclusiveChronolux Power SignalTechnology, has shown strongperformance since it launchedin September, with a 34%increase in sales YOY. Clarins’iconic Double Serum has gainedmomentum over the last sixmonths; we sold an average offive bottles every hour from 1stApril - 1st October. We expectClinique’s newly formulatedMoisture Surge, which launchedin September to be a big hitter.The biggest developmentwe will see in the trend is theboom in skincare gadgets.From anti-ageing LED masksto sculpting devices, customersare buying into innovativetechnology to enhance theirat-home routines. Harnessingthis desire, we launched thededicated Beauty Tech hub overthe summer to great success.Our current bestseller is theMZ Skin Light-Therapy GoldenFacial Treatment Device FiveColoured Light Treatment, 385. We predict this areawill be particularly big for theChristmas gifting period.The UK skincare market is booming by 2024 it is estimated to be worth 18.47 billion,with an average yearly growth of 5.2% between2019-2024 (Mordor Intelligence). With an estimated30% market share in 2020 (NPD), this sector isparticularly strong for John Lewis.J O H N L E W I S & PA RT N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O RT
The everyday gets made extra-specialover the next 12 months, as bath andshower-time is transformed into apampering self-care ritual. Luxurioussoaps, shower creams, scrubs andlotions will replace basics as customerslook for achievable ways to indulgeand unwind.For many, the increased normalityof staying in has seen customerslean towards their own at-homerituals for skin care routines andcreate at-home spa experiencesas skincare, body & hair productsincreased 234% vs last yearduring lockdown.THERISEOFTHEE V E RY D AYRITUALA movement that began inlockdown, we have seen bathand body brands that play tothe idea of enhancing daily ritualsresonate with the customer.Launched online in May, Aesophas rapidly become a best-sellingbrand, exceeding our forecastedsales. We have sold enoughResurrection AromatiqueHand Wash, 500ml, to fill285 bathroom sinks.We’ve also seen a huge surgein customer demand for bathand body gift sets from brandsincluding Diptyque, Le Labo,Molton Brown, Rituals andL’Occitane. Offering a full bathingkit, they allow the customer toexperience an end-to-end ritualat home without having to spendon full-sized products. We arebacking these as popular giftingand self-gifting options over theChristmas period, and predictthey will remain a customerfavourite into the new year.234% skincare, body & hairproducts increased 234% vs last yearduring lockdown.J O H N L E W I S & PA R T N E R S B E A U T Y B E T S R E P O R T
C O N TA C TFor more information andimagery please contact:Leah WhiteCommunications Officer, Fashion & Beautyleah.white@johnlewis.co.ukEmma MoranSenior Communications Manager, Fashion & Beautyemma.moran@johnlewis.co.uk0207 592 6058Follow us on Instagram@johnlewisandpartnerspr
Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge are already strong performers, and we have some very exciting new launches that play to this space coming over the next 12 months. MAKE-UP BAGS GET SMALLER JOHN LEWIS & PARTNERS BEAUTY BETS REPORT 2020 has seen a re-evaluation of priorities in beauty; with many of us leading more of an at-
