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Ice Cream

H. Douglas Goff Ice CreamSeventh EditionRichard W. Hartel

H. Douglas GoffDepartment of Food ScienceUniversity of GuelphGuelph, ON, CanadaRichard W. HartelDepartment of Food ScienceUniversity of WisconsinMadison, WI, USAISBN 978-1-4614-6095-4ISBN 978-1-4614-6096-1 (eBook)DOI 10.1007/978-1-4614-6096-1Springer New York Heidelberg Dordrecht LondonLibrary of Congress Control Number: 2012954423 Springer Science Business Media New York 2013This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part ofthe material is concerned, specifically the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recitation,broadcasting, reproduction on microfilms or in any other physical way, and transmission or informationstorage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodologynow known or hereafter developed. Exempted from this legal reservation are brief excerpts in connectionwith reviews or scholarly analysis or material supplied specifically for the purpose of being entered andexecuted on a computer system, for exclusive use by the purchaser of the work. Duplication of thispublication or parts thereof is permitted only under the provisions of the Copyright Law of the Publisher’slocation, in its current version, and permission for use must always be obtained from Springer. Permissionsfor use may be obtained through RightsLink at the Copyright Clearance Center. Violations are liable toprosecution under the respective Copyright Law.The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publicationdoes not imply, even in the absence of a specific statement, that such names are exempt from the relevantprotective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use.While the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date ofpublication, neither the authors nor the editors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility forany errors or omissions that may be made. The publisher makes no warranty, express or implied, withrespect to the material contained herein.Printed on acid-free paperSpringer is part of Springer Science Business Media (www.springer.com)

PrefaceWe are pleased to present the seventh edition of the long-standing title, Ice Cream.The first edition was written by Prof. Wendell S. Arbuckle of the University ofMaryland and published in 1966. Prof. Arbuckle had joined Prof. J. H. Frandsen incoauthoring Ice Cream and Related Products in 1961. Frandsen was the seniorauthor of two other ice cream books in 1915 and 1950. So, the lineage of this bookcan be traced back to the infancy of the industrial ice cream industry. Prof. Arbucklepublished subsequent editions in 1972 (second), 1977 (third), and 1986 (fourth),before his death in 1987. In 1996, Prof. Robert T. Marshall of the University ofMissouri completely revised the Arbuckle manuscript and published the fifth edition under the names of Marshall and Arbuckle. We (H. D. Goff and R. W. Hartel)joined Prof. Marshall to prepare the sixth edition, published in 2003, under thenames of Marshall, Goff, and Hartel. Prof. Marshall has since retired, leaving us toprepare the seventh edition.We have completely revamped this edition. Every chapter has been rewritten,updating with state-of-the-art knowledge and new references as appropriate.Material has been realigned to make what we feel is a more coherent presentation.New chapters on ice cream structure (Chap. 11) and ice cream shelf life (Chap. 12)have been added. We have made the book suitable for an international audience byconverting completely to SI units, although we indicate the equivalent US unit asappropriate, and we have incorporated international production and consumptiondata, legislation information, and global industry practices.Both of us have been involved in ice cream research for 25 years. Prof. Goff hasalso been teaching ice cream courses at the University of Guelph and in variousplaces around the world for 25 years. This book reflects our combined knowledge.We have maintained the focus on science and technology of ice cream. We do notpresent any information about marketing, retailing or restaurant operations. Thebook is intended for people with a science and technology background, or at leastthose who want to learn more of the technical aspects of ice cream production. It isintended for anyone involved in the industry, from Research and Development,Quality Control, or Manufacturing in large-scale operations right through to smallscale entrepreneurs who want to understand the principles behind the product theyv

viPrefaceare making. Suppliers to the industry should gain a tremendous insight into thecomplexities of the product, the functional roles of the ingredients, and the manufacturing and cleaning processes employed by the industry. And, of course, it is forstudents, both Undergraduate students who are learning about ice cream, perhapswith the intention of entering the industry some day, and Graduate students who arefurthering our knowledge with their research. The students of today are the industryleaders of tomorrow.We dedicate this edition to our own students who have contributed thousands ofhours to ice cream science. This edition has been a year in the making and muchfamily time has been consumed, so sincere appreciation is extended to our familieswithout whose support and encouragement we would not have accomplished ourgoals. We also gratefully acknowledge all of the contributors to various chapters.Guelph, ON, CanadaMadison, WI, USAH. Douglas GoffRichard W. Hartel

Contents1The Ice Cream Industry .Introduction .The Changing Characteristics of the Industry .Production and Consumption Trends .A Brief History of Ice Cream.Overview of Ice Cream Composition and Manufacture .References .1123914172Composition and Formulations .Introduction .Descriptions of Commercial Frozen Desserts.Ice Cream and Related Products .Fermented Products .Sherbets and Related Products .Ices and Related Products .Novelties .Drinks.Complexities of Composition .Energy Value and Nutrients .Energy (Caloric) Content .Protein Content .Fat Content .Carbohydrate Content .Mineral Content .Vitamin Content .Palatability and Digestability .The Balanced Mix .Nutrition Labeling Based on Composition .Reference .191922222728282829293132353536373838383944vii

viiiContents3Mix Ingredients .Introduction .Composition of Milk .Fat Ingredients .Milk Fat .Nondairy Fats .Fat Replacers .Milk Solids-Not-Fat/Protein Ingredients .Concentrated Milks .Dried Skim and Whole Milk .Whey Products .Milk Powder Blends.Other Milk Solids-Not-Fat Ingredients .Nondairy Protein Ingredients .Sources of Water .Potable Water .Milk, Skim Milk, and Buttermilk .Sweeteners .Sucrose: Crystalline and Liquid .Corn Sweeteners .Maple and Brown Sugars .Honey .Sugar Alcohols .Nonnutritive Sweeteners .Stabilizers.Characteristics of Individual Stabilizer Ingredients .Ice Structuring Proteins.Propylene Glycol Monoesters .Emulsifiers .Characteristics of Individual Emulsifier Ingredients .Mineral Salts .References 5788081828384854Flavoring and Coloring Materials .Introduction .Vanilla .Natural Vanilla Flavor .Consistency in Vanilla Quality.Artificial Vanilla Flavor .Vanilla Ice Cream .Chocolate and Cocoa .Processing Cocoa Beans .Chocolate Ice Cream .Preparing Chocolate Syrup .Chocolate Confections .89899393949595969799101102

ContentsixFlavoring Ingredients .Color in Frozen Desserts.Particulate Inclusions .Fruits .Nuts .Bakery Pieces .Candy Pieces .Variegates .Ice Cream with Complex Flavors .Defects in Flavoring Systems .References .1031051061061121141141151151181195Mix Processing and Properties .Introduction .Mix Processing.Combining the Ingredients.Pasteurization .Homogenization .Aging.Packaging for Sale .Flavoring .Physical Properties of Mixes.Mix Stability .Density .Acidity of Mixes .Mix Viscosity .Interfacial Characteristics .Freezing Point .Specific Heat .Ice Cream Defects Originating from Mix Composition .References 491491536Calculation of Ice Cream Mixes .Introduction .Mix Formulation Software .Mathematical Processes most Frequently Used .Standardizing Milk and Cream .Algebraic Mass Balance .Use of the Pearson Square for Standardizing Creamand Other Milk Products .Mix Formulation Calculations .Mix Decisions .Simple Mixes .Complex Mixes .Restandardizing Ice Cream Mixes .155155155156157157158159160161162178

xContents7Freezing Point Depression Calculations .Freezing Point Depression of a Mix .Freezing Curves .Overrun Calculations .Determining Manufacturing Overrun by Volume,no Particulates .Determining Manufacturing Overrun by Volume,with Particulates .Determining Package Overrun by Weight, no Particulates .Determining Mix Density .Determining Target Package Weights, no Particulates .Determining Target Package Weights, with Particulates .References .179181183184Freezing and Refrigeration .Introduction .General Freezing Operations .Types of Freezers .The Continuous Freezer .Operating the Continuous Freezer .Freezer Controls .Commercial Freezers .Sanitary Design of Ice Cream Freezers .Start-Up and Shut Down of a Continuous Freezer .Freezer Outlet/Ice Cream Piping .Continuous Ingredient Feeders .The Batch Freezer .Operation of the Batch Freezer .Filling Containers from a Batch Freezer .Other Freezer Types .Cryogenically Frozen Products .Shaving Devices .Consumer-Frozen Shelf Stable Products .Refrigeration .Refrigeration Principles .Types of Refrigerants .Primary Refrigerants .Secondary Refrigerants .Combined Refrigeration.Mechanical Refrigeration.Operating Principles.Evaporator Systems.Defrosting Methods .Compressors.Condensers .Operating Precautions 187187189189190191

ContentsxiMultistage Refrigeration Systems .Calculation of Refrigeration Loads .Terms Used in Refrigeration .References .2412432472478Soft-Frozen Dairy Desserts .Introduction .Soft-Serve Mix Composition .Freezers for Soft-Serve and Shakes .Cleaning and Sanitizing Soft-Serve Freezers.The Heat Treatment Freezer .Soft-Serve Blended Products .Reference .2492492502532572592602609Novelty Products and Ice Cream Cakes.Introduction .Cup, Cone, and Sandwich Products .Molded Products .Ice and Fudge Stick Items .Enrobing.Chocolate Coatings .Application of Coatings .Extruded Products .Ice Cream Cakes and Multi-Portion Products .Reference .26126126326727327427427627728128710Packaging, Hardening, and Shipping.Considering the Package .The Packaging Operation .Bulk Packaging .Packaging for Direct Sale to Consumers .Economy in Packaging Operations .The Hardening Process .Changes During Hardening.Factors Affecting Hardening Time .Types of Hardening Facilities .Precautions to Observe in the Operation of Hardeningand Storage Rooms .Handling, Storing, and Shipping.Distribution Systems .Shipping with Dry Ice .References .289289291291293296299299301303Ice Cream Structure .Introduction .Microstructural Elements .Serum Phase .Ice Crystals.31331331731732011305307310311312