Fashion Marketing, Third Edition

Transcription

Fashion Marketing

This page intentionally left blank

Fashion MarketingThird EditionEdited byMike EaseyA John Wiley & Sons, Ltd., Publication

This edition first published 2009 2009 Mike EaseyBlackwell Publishing was acquired by John Wiley & Sons in February 2007. Blackwell’spublishing programme has been merged with Wiley’s global Scientific, Technical, andMedical business to form Wiley-Blackwell.Registered officeJohn Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex,PO19 8SQ, United KingdomEditorial offices9600 Garsington Road, Oxford, OX4 2DQ, United Kingdom2121 State Avenue, Ames, Iowa 50014-8300, USAFor details of our global editorial offices, for customer services and for informationabout how to apply for permission to reuse the copyright material in this book pleasesee our website at www.wiley.com/wiley-blackwell.The right of the author to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted inaccordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrievalsystem, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, except as permitted by the UK Copyright, Designsand Patents Act 1988, without the prior permission of the publisher.Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content thatappears in print may not be available in electronic books.Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are often claimed astrademarks. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names,service marks, trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. Thepublisher is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regardto the subject matter covered. It is sold on the understanding that the publisher is notengaged in rendering professional services. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional should be sought.Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication DataFashion marketing / edited by Mike Easey. — 3rd edp. cm.Includes bibliographical references and index.ISBN 978-1-4051-3953-3 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Fashion merchandising. I. Easey, Mike.HD9940.A2F37 2009391.0068 8–dc222008030014A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.Set in 10/12.5 pt Avenir by Charon Tec Ltd (A Macmillan Company), Chennai, India(www.macmillansolutions.com)Printed in Singapore by Markono Print Media Pte Ltd12009

ContentsList of ContributorsPrefaceAcknowledgementsixxixvPart A: Understanding Fashion Marketing1An Introduction to Fashion MarketingMike Easey1.1What is fashion?1.2What is marketing?1.3What is fashion marketing?1.4Fashion marketing in practice1.5How fashion marketing can help thefashion industry1.6What fashion marketers do: five examples1.7Ethical issues in fashion marketing1.8An overview of the fashion marketing process1.9SummaryFurther reading111213151617218The Fashion Market and the Marketing EnvironmentChristine Sorensen2.1Introduction2.2The development of the fashion market2.3The fashion market: size and structure2.4Marketing environment2.5Micro-marketing environment2.6Macro-marketing environment2.7Trends in the marketing environment2.8SummaryFurther reading133577181821262634565859

ContentsPart B: Understanding and Researching theFashion Purchaser3The Fashion Consumer and Organizational BuyerMike Easey3.1Introduction3.2Why study the fashion buyer?3.3Fashion consumer decision-making3.4Psychological processes3.5Sociological aspects of consumerbehaviour3.6The organizational buyer3.7SummaryFurther reading4Fashion Marketing ResearchPatricia Gray4.1Introduction4.2The purpose of marketing research4.3An overview of the marketing researchprocess4.4Problem definition and setting researchobjectives4.5Research design4.6Data sources4.7Practical sampling methods4.8Primary data collection methods4.9Data collection methods4.10Questionnaire design4.11Attitude measurement and rating scales4.12The role of marketing research in newproduct development4.13Forecasting fashion4.14The Internet as a research tool4.15International marketing research4.16SummaryFurther readingPart C: Target Marketing and Managing theFashion Marketing Mix5Segmentation and the Marketing MixMike Easey and Christine Sorensen5.1Introduction and overview5.2Mass marketing and market segmentation5.3Segmentation: rationale, bases and 3108111113117119121123126127128129131131131134

This page intentionally left blank

78140141143144Designing and Marketing Fashion ProductsSheila Atkinson and Mike Easey6.1Introduction6.2The importance of fashion products6.3The nature of fashion products6.4The fashion industry and new productdevelopment6.5Retail buying sequence: autumn andwinter season6.6The product mix and range planning6.7Fashion and related life cycles6.8SummaryFurther reading145Pricing Garments and Fashion ServicesMike Easey7.1Introduction7.2Different views of price7.3The role of price decisions withinmarketing strategy7.4External factors influencing price decisions7.5Internal factors influencing price decisions7.6Main methods of setting prices7.7Pricing strategies in relation to newproducts7.8Pricing strategies to match thecompetition7.9Price changes7.10SummaryFurther readingFashion DistributionJohn Willans8.1Introduction8.2The importance of fashion retailing8.3Structural issues8.4The industry’s components8.5Trends in retailingContents65.4Positioning and perceptual mapping5.5The fashion marketing mix5.6SummaryFurther 83184190191193195195196196196198202208vii

Contents9108.6The Internet8.7The ‘grey market’8.8Retail marketing effectiveness8.9SummaryFurther reading213215215216216Fashion Marketing CommunicationsGaynor Lea-Greenwood9.1Introduction9.2The marketing communications environment9.3The traditional approach to promotion9.4Fashion advertising9.5Sales promotion9.6Public relations9.7Celebrity endorsement and sponsorship9.8Personal selling9.9Visual merchandising to visual marketing9.10International marketing communications9.11Ethics in marketing communications9.12Evaluating the effectiveness ofmarketing communications9.13New directions in fashion marketingcommunications9.14SummaryUseful websitesFurther reading218Fashion Marketing PlanningMike Easey10.1Introduction10.2The planning process and objectives10.3Marketing audits and SWOT analysis10.4Marketing strategy10.5The fashion marketing plan10.6Implementation and organizational issues10.7SummaryFurther readingGlossary of Fashion Marketing 235236236237238238238240243246247250250251257

List of ContributorsSheila Atkinson, MSc, MBA, PGCEd, AMCIM. Her working experience includes buying and merchandising for the Burton Group plcand management of design education in further education. Sheila hasextensive teaching experience in UK and Chinese Universities andhas training and consultancy experience in fashion marketing. SheilaAtkinson produced Chapter Six with Mike Easey, on the design andmarketing of fashion products.Mike Easey, BA (Hons), DipM, MCIM, CertEd, is Director ofCollaborative Ventures in Newcastle Business School at the Universityof Northumbria. He has worked for three multinationals in marketingresearch, promotion and marketing planning positions. He is an experienced Marketing Consultant and has undertaken an extensive rangeof consultancy work including marketing for fashion manufacturersand fashion retailers. He is also a university external examiner in fashion marketing, a QAA Specialist Subject Reviewer in Marketing anda member of the editorial board of the Journal of Fashion Marketingand Management. Mike Easey produced Chapters One, Three, Sevenand Ten and co-wrote Chapter Five with Christine Sorensen andChapter Six with Sheila Atkinson.Patricia Gray, MSc, Dip MRS, PGCEd, previously a Lecturer inMarketing Research in Newcastle Business School, is currentlyworking as a Researcher with Newcastle University. Her experienceincludes numerous consultancy tasks and she has worked in publicity for the arts and for Millward Brown Market and Social Research.Patricia Gray produced Chapter Four on fashion marketing research.

List of ContributorsGaynor Lea-Greenwood, MA, BA, is a Senior Lecturer in FashionMarketing at Manchester Metropolitan University. She has worked ata senior level in the fashion industry including a major role with MissSelfridge. Along with consultancy experience for fashion retailers,she has extensive knowledge of international sourcing and promotion. She is an active researcher, external examiner for UK Universitiesand Acting Editor of the editorial board of the Journal of FashionMarketing and Management. Gaynor is currently working on a newtextbook on Fashion Marketing Communications for Wiley-Blackwell.Gaynor Lea-Greenwood produced Chapter Nine on fashion marketing communications.Christine Sorensen, MA, PGDip, BA (Hons) PGCEd, DipM, is a SeniorLecturer in Marketing in Newcastle Business School. She has workedfor three companies in marketing positions including the print industry and franchising. Christine has considerable experience of marketing training for small business and has appeared on radio to discussdevelopments in promotion. Christine Sorensen produced ChapterTwo on the fashion marketing environment and co-wrote ChapterFive with Mike Easey.John Willans, MSc, DipM, CertEd, until his recent retirement, wasa Senior Lecturer in Fashion Marketing and Retail Distribution inNewcastle Business School. His background includes work with theretail sector and with textile marketing in Huddersfield. John Willanswrote Chapter Eight on fashion distribution. John is currently working on a new textbook, with Ruth Marciniak, on Fashion Retailing forWiley-Blackwell.x

PrefaceIf you are interested or involved in fashion you will already be awarethat it is an exciting area of constant change, creativity and globalcommercial activity. However, skills in fashion are not enough to guarantee success, as even when those skills are exceptional there is stillthe constant risk of failure and bankruptcy. A knowledge of marketingis essential to help ensure success and lessen the possibility of failure.To paraphrase Armani, ‘Clothing that is not purchased or worn is notfashion.’ A good knowledge of fashion marketing can make the difference between a prototype that lingers in a dark storeroom and agarment that people really want to buy and wear.Over the last two decades fashion has become a truly global business. Designers no longer work necessarily within manufacturing facilities and, as part of the knowledge industry, they need to be mobileand have the ability to communicate across cultures and businessdisciplines. Many brands like Gap, Zara and H&M which were justnational brands a few years ago are now internationally recognized.Another major force influencing the fashion business is the growth ofthe Internet. The Internet has influenced the flow of creative ideas, thesearch for product information, the transparency of pricing andthe management of supply chains amongst as well as how and wherecustomers buy garments.For the designer keen to start his or her own business, this bookwill offer a guide to most of the major decisions that will enable youto fulfil your creative potential and be a financial success. For themarketer who is interested in fashion, this book will help you understand the special way that marketing needs to be applied to the

Prefaceworld of fashion. Established fashion businesses also need to remaincompetitive by asking questions such as: What are the major trends we should be monitoring?How should we set our prices?What is the most effective way to get our message acrossabout the new product range?Which colour wash will be the most popular with buyers?Fashion marketing finds answers to these and many other questions.This book has a number of special qualities that make it essentialreading for anyone involved in fashion. xiiIt deals with contemporary issues in fashion marketing.It has up-to-date examples of good practice. Over thepast 35 years, all other major texts on fashion marketing havebeen centred on US practice. Fashion is now a global business and that theme is evident in all chapters in this revisededition.This book is exclusively about fashion marketing. It is not amarketing book with a few fashion examples among the anecdotes about motorcycles, industrial services and banking. It isall about fashion.There is a unique contribution on range planning which isa practical blend of sound design sense and commercialrealism.There is a constant balance of theory and practice, with examples to illustrate key concepts. Where numerical concepts areincluded, there are clear worked examples to ensure that theideas are easily understood and retained.Each chapter contains an introduction to set the scene and asummary of key points. There are over 50 diagrams to helpto explain ideas and a glossary of the main fashion marketingterms is included.Included within each chapter is a guide to further reading.Keen fashion marketers will therefore be able to use this bookas a foundation and springboard to becoming experts in specialist areas such as fashion marketing research or fashionpublic relations.A coherent approach to fashion marketing is developed,based on the research, consultancy, working and teaching experiences of a team from a major centre of excellencein fashion marketing in the UK. What you will get is a systematic approach to fashion marketing, not hyperbole orspeculation.

Part A looks at the nature and scope of fashion marketing. In ChapterOne the special ingredients that make for good fashion design

and management of design education in further education. Sheila has extensive teaching experience in UK and Chinese Universities and has training and consultancy experience in fashion marketing. Sheila Atkinson produced Chapter Six with Mike Easey, on the design and marketing of fashion products.